the reason i like big saw's in a tree....

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kf_tree

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what saw's do you use and why when chunking down wood? i kind of played with this the other day......i used a 385 with a 28in bar when i was almost through the cut the saw would bind so i would either have to push up on the wood and run the 385 with one had(not good) or stick small twigs or bark in the cut to keep it from pinching on the bar.

when running a 395 with a 28in bar i was able to blow right through the wood, no "shimming" of the cut required. for the extra pound and a half in saw it just seems the quicker and easier way to go.
 
Kf- the biggest saw I have used in a tree is a 288xp with a 32" bar to block down firs down to the hieght so I could get back in the bucket. Like 30" at 80', that saw usually has the power to blow right through it. No big deal to one hand doing that anyways, how is it going to kickback? But yes a 394 or 5 would be good too. Those blocks get heavy after a while and you are right, no replacement for displacment.
 
Rationale for a 372 28" vs. a 394 42":

A 28" bar sticks 26" out from the saw. So 26" x 2 = 52. 52 is not feasible, but 40 is. I consider 40" sizeable. Wouldn't you? Even though the 394 would make the cut faster with one pass, I just find it easier to walk around the tree with a smaller bar. It's a lot easier to pull out from under the cookie and there's enough saw dust from the cut in the kerf that shimming isn't necessary. I've tried both, the lighter combo just works better for me. Even though it may take a few extra minutes, I'm not as tired, and there's only one large mass to deal with instead of two.

TT
 
Cookie-what the f. is that? They are called blocks. TreeT. I have used my 020 to walk around the tree cutting blocks and then pulled up a 372 with a 24 inch bar. Learned to use the bigger saw soon as poss. You are right about a smaller saw taking less effort, those big saws get heavy up there. For me, its a time versus effort thing. More effort, back on the ground sooner, less effort, in the tree longer. I like to get back on the ground, drink some water, rest for a little before falling the butt log.
 
Tree Trimmer said:
Rationale for a 372 28" vs. a 394 42":

A 28" bar sticks 26" out from the saw. So 26" x 2 = 52. 52 is not feasible, but 40 is. I consider 40" sizeable. Wouldn't you? Even though the 394 would make the cut faster with one pass, I just find it easier to walk around the tree with a smaller bar. It's a lot easier to pull out from under the cookie and there's enough saw dust from the cut in the kerf that shimming isn't necessary. I've tried both, the lighter combo just works better for me. Even though it may take a few extra minutes, I'm not as tired, and there's only one large mass to deal with instead of two.

TT

the 395's are set up like this....one has a 36in bar one has a 32in and one has a 28....i find it much easier to stand in one place and pass the bar through than walk around, what is the stick is on a bad lean? then it's real tough to walk the bar around.



i've never found that the saw dust is enough to hold up the wood. i just pick up a chalk bag for rock climbers......pick up some cheap wood shims from home depot. when you get to the wood clip the bag to the back of your saddle and the shims are handy to slap in the cut. dowels are also nice to help get the wood moving.....but the dowel idea i got from rbtree.
 
I could see one saw at 36" and 28" but the middle ground 32" is excessive in my book.


I really perfer for the bar (when climbing) to reach all the way through the cut.

As for getting the pieces started a shallow salami cut with something in the kerf to hold it open till you get done makes it alot easier to get the chunk moving. I dont normally have to block down wood, and the salami cut is reserved for big (30" plus) when I have a hard time getting the piece to start moving.
 
I don't recall ever using anything bigger than a 268xp in the tree-and I didn't do that much. I make most cuts with my "climbing" saw. If the wood is big and there are a lot of cuts to make then I'll lug a 50-55c saw with 20-22 bar up. I simply haven't had a need for bigger. I know that some of you guys have bigger trees. I also know that on some of the 20-30 inch in-tree cuts I've made a bigger saw would cut faster but I prefer the handling of a smaller saw when I'm off the ground. I'll trade a few seconds in each cut for less drag on my hip while setting up and easier control while cutting.
 
at the moment i only have 1 big saw, thats a stihl 460 with a 25inch bar......i find the stihl to have a better power to weight ratio than the husky. my next saws will be a 360 and a 660 in that order
 
I've done the 044 in a tree, and a 260 in a tree. After using the 260 2 times in the tree, I decided that the 044 is a better fit for me. Yeah, the 260 is lighter, but it doesn't have anywhere near the power of the 44. The 44 will just blast right through those logs.
 
I have used my 044 countless times in the tree, I normally go straight from the 14" MS 200T to the 044 with a 20" or 28" bar.

I want to get a job where I have to use the 088, that would be sweet.

Need to get me an 660 after I take care of some other wants/needs.
 
nothing sweet about using an 088 in a tree. used a 3120 a few times and its damm hard work. not too bad if you're roped in with a decent anchor point but if you're just blocking down on spikes it will wear ya down real quick.
well thats me anyway but i am just a little fella
 
I used a 3120 in the tree once and once was enough. I like going from the 200MS right to the big saw, preferably a 372 with a 32" bar or a 385. My current service uses 066s and I think they are gas hogs, I'm hoping to get something more economical loke an 440MS. Huskies are great but are under-represented here in Boise, ID. The trick to big saws in trees for me is suspenders and a ladder hook that fits all handles. I suffer from "missing buttitus" and couldn't survive without suspenders. :blob2:
 
I am a decent sized fellow, 6'1", 220 pounds. I am just thinking, if I get a tree I HAVE to use the 088, then there is some major $$$$ in that tree. It would get old fast, but it would make a nice story IMO.
 
the hardest part of using a saw like a 3120 in a tree is starting the cut. by the time you get to the wood on a big removal your already a bit tired. so it's rough just holding it up level to start the cut. but once the cut is started the weight is no longer an issue.
 
Justin, your correct, the money is better to do several small jobs that are properly bidded than one monster. The reasoning I have for that is that you can make more faster and the slighest thing that goes right on the small jobs get them done faster which= more money per man/crew hour where with the big tree you may get done faster but its less of an impact on the bottom line of the job.
 
440 or a 372 w/28 inch bar. Take a plastic,wedge drill a hole at the thickest part, a piece of pull start cord thru the wedge
tied to a mini ******. Cut the blocks on a slight down angle toward the drop zone. Wedge the back before it binds, the pieces slide off wedge stays cliped to your saddle for the next piece. No twigs, pieces of bark etc. to keep the kerf open.
660 with a 32" bar, but I try to avoid it unless absolutely necessary. Gettin to old for this!! :dizzy:

Corey
 
How about the old days when the high rigger would climb the big fir to 120'-150' cutting all the branches along the way with an axe, and then blow of the big top at around 20" with the axe. I bet those guys would laugh at us today.
 
they can laugh all they want, i'll take my chainsaw anyday
 
clearance said:
How about the old days when the high rigger would climb the big fir to 120'-150' cutting all the branches along the way with an axe, and then blow of the big top at around 20" with the axe. I bet those guys would laugh at us today.


TreeSpyder turned me on to this.
 

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