The scored piston you're running

[Tobystihl]

Vehicles have cast cylinders (soft) and chrome (etc) piston rings (hard), saws have chrome liners (hard) and cast rings (soft) Crosshatching a saw is not really doable (or required) in my opinion. As long as the cylinder is true, the rings will bed in.
I've stripped many Huskys with piston and bearing failure (total carnage) with not a mark to the cylinders.

Just my 2cents....

 

[bsmith717]

I've only been inside a dozen, or saws, but I don't believe cross-hatch is a "thing," in the case of chainsaws.

The super-hard plated chainsaw bores are not like automotive iron or steel (liners) bores.

Roy

Not trying to start an argument. But crosshatching in the cylinder walls of any and all I/c motors, including chainsaws. One could even argue since chainsaws are 2t the crosshatching is even more important than in 4t motors. I’d have to agree with that statement myself.

 

[bsmith717]

Vehicles have cast cylinders (soft) and chrome (etc) piston rings (hard), saws have chrome liners (hard) and cast rings (soft) Crosshatching a saw is not really doable (or required) in my opinion. As long as the cylinder is true, the rings will bed in.
I've stripped many Huskys with piston and bearing failure (total carnage) with not a mark to the cylinders.

Just my 2cents....

Most automotive cylinders have a coating on them like Nikasil or alusil.

Chainsaws absolutely have crosshatching from the factory. If you’ve never seen it either it’s been worn away, you didn’t really look that hard or you nerf to get an eye examination.

 

[muddy42]

Personally, I run saws until they no longer have enough compression to fire. This takes a long time and beyond when people tell you the measured compression is too low, especially big saws. By then the piston always needs replacing and probably the cylinder too.

 

[777funk]

I've unlocked a bunch of 2 cycles over the years and even one that a pin broke free and chewed up the top of the piston. I always made sure the cylinder didn't have any major lines in it and that the piston was smooth. Put new ring(s) on and usually no problems, good compression, and good performance. Good as new? Maybe not, but I'd bet 90% or better. There comes a point where it's not worth it I'm sure, but a small amount of scoring on the piston is not as big of a deal as I once thought. I carefully sand it smooth on piston and bore, install a new ring and check the compression after a half hour of run time. Compression is usually pretty close to new surprisingly.

 

[irhunter]

you didn’t really look that hard or you nerf to get an eye examination.

Maybe next you'll claim that the saws I've done have no compression, rings which neaver seated, didn't run, didn't last.

I guess, if I ever do a new set of rings and have a saw which shows signs of low compression, I will think about cross-hatching.

But, that has not happened yet.

Roy

 

[Mad Professor]

Why cheap out on a $40 part? My time is worth more than that.

It will polish out........

 

[bsmith717]

Maybe next you'll claim that the saws I've done have no compression, rings which neaver seated, didn't run, didn't last.

I guess, if I ever do a new set of rings and have a saw which shows signs of low compression, I will think about cross-hatching.

But, that has not happened yet.

Roy

I’m not sure what you’re saying there.

It’s just a fact that all I/C engines have crosshatching unless it has been worn away. And even then it would only be absent on the thrust side of the bore.

 

[Tobystihl]

Most automotive cylinders have a coating on them like Nikasil or alusil.

Chainsaws absolutely have crosshatching from the factory. If you’ve never seen it either it’s been worn away, you didn’t really look that hard or you nerf to get After rebuilding over 500 saws

Most automotive cylinders have a coating on them like Nikasil or alusil.

Chainsaws absolutely have crosshatching from the factory. If you’ve never seen it either it’s been worn away, you didn’t really look that hard or you nerf to get an eye examination.

After successfully rebuilding well over 500 saws I can assure you there is nothing wrong with my eyesight pal. They may well have crosshatching from the factory but it is not essential when rebuilding used saws.
I've never had a saw that didn't run because the rings or ring was not seating

P.s, I think you are the one that "nerfs" to get an eye examination.....

 

[irhunter]

I’m not sure what you’re saying there.

I am saying what Tobystihl says, below. But, my observation is based on a whopping dozen saws! Ha.

I have not seen cross-hatch on any of my dozen saws. I just don't believe it was either that I wasn't looking or my eyesight is sketch.

The lowest-hour cylinder I have ever had is under the bench right now. A super-low-hour MS291. The saw might have had a tank or two run through it.

I just looked...very carefully...no cross-hatch.

Honest.

They may well have crosshatching from the factory but it is not essential when rebuilding used saws.

 

[muddy42]

Stihl cylinders have horizontal lines on them, running round in a circular motion, not crosshatching.

 

[pioneerguy600]

When a Troll comes to a chainsaw site with an agenda and tries to change established members way of thinking and doing their usual mechanical rebuilds, no one is going to change their minds. For those that do hone go ahead its your saw your problem. For those that don`t hone carry on ,the saw will run fine. For me I have been rebuilding chainsaws since the mid to late 60`s and have not used a hone on any plated cylinders, yes back in the days of iron lined cylinders. You can look around and see this member is posting in several threads that honing is necessary, that`s an agenda and he will likely just continue so arguing over it will change no ones mind, do what works for you. Discussion is one thing but carrying on over and over will change very few minds, just my two cents.

 

[muddy42]

Agreed, you do not need to hone, polishing cylinders up by hand with wet and dry paper has always worked fine for me.