They dont make them like this anymore

[ThistleIA]

A few of them...shortest RN I have is a 14",longest is a 42",most are 24" to 36" which is perfect for my needs

 

[Squareground3691]

 

[Gord404]

Love your collection of double bladed axes- got quite a few myself

 

[Squareground3691]

Love your collection of double bladed axes- got quite a few myself

Thanks, I enjoy getting the heads and hafting them to a desired handle ,

 

[Gord404]

Thanks, I enjoy getting the heads and hafting them to a desired handle ,

Ya got one here that has very long blades and the handle is curved a bit- found out later the the old loggers did that on purpose for when they were on a spring board it was easier to flip the axe one way or the other depending which way the were using it- didn'd have to bend over so far- quite the logging history in the area I live in and still logging.- off topic a bit but yes I have had those bars through here but went to appropiate saws

 

[hillwilliam]

View attachment 1228117

I got 32-incher like that when I lived in WA. Didn't use the heavy thing much, and later sold it to Mastermind. I do love roller noses though, and used them a lot. It may be impossible to wear one out, but I did break two of the smaller ones off.

 

[Squareground3691]

I got 32-incher like that when I lived in WA. Didn't use the heavy thing much, and later sold it to Mastermind. I do love roller noses though, and used them a lot. It may be impossible to wear one out, but I did break two of the smaller ones off.

Yea , they are sure some good old stuff and look great on a classic saw ,

 

[heimannm]

 

[Bill G]

I try to keep a few spare roller tips around.......

 

[Sidecarflip]

Far as I can tell, nothing today is made like it was decades ago. Only thing that has 'improved' is the cost.

Today, it's all about 'lean manufacturing' and producing goods at the lowest per unit cost and getting the best profit margin and hell with quality. Durable goods today are made with obsolescence in mind.

Like major appliances. Built to last until the warranty period is over plus maybe a couple years and then you can them and buy another new one and today, most aren't repairable anyway unless you have a degree in computer science.

 

[sonny580]

I had several old saws with the roller nose on them. They werent the greatest and I replaced them with sprocket nose and never looked back. Its mostly personal choice .

 

[Sidecarflip]

Yes, it is and when I buy a new guide bar before I pay for it, I look to see if the sprocket nose has a grease hole and if it don't, I pass.

My noses get greased before I use my saws, every time and I've never had a nose failure. I have, however, worn out guide bars in the past. When the rock needs reground but the driver clearance is at the point where the drive tangs are contacting the bottom of the bar groove, they get renewed.

If, in fact greasing them makes a difference, I'm not sure but, grease is cheap anyway so I do it.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I greased the sprockets starting in the early 70`s on up until I started running Stihls late 80`s forward. I don`t grease the Stihl bar sprockets, , never had a sprocket problem to date. A couple of the bars off my 044`s wore down til the drivers were scraping the bottom of the groove, recut them a bit deeper and still running them today, 20", 24 and a 30" got a lot of hours on them on some of the larger clear cuts we did.

 

[Sidecarflip]

Out of curiosity, how did you cut the bar groove lower??

 

[rtrsam]

I greased the sprockets starting in the early 70`s on up until I started running Stihls late 80`s forward. I don`t grease the Stihl bar sprockets, , never had a sprocket problem to date. A couple of the bars off my 044`s wore down til the drivers were scraping the bottom of the groove, recut them a bit deeper and still running them today, 20", 24 and a 30" got a lot of hours on them on some of the larger clear cuts we did.

I always thought that the grease would just blow out of there once the sprocket starts spinning at however many 1000 rpm the saw is running. I figured the grease would serve a purpose of cleaning whatever crud might be in the bearings, but honestly I never really had any observations to support that.

I always figured, the lube for the bearings was coming from the bar oil. Never smoked the bearings on a tip: once the teeth wore down to the point they were no longer carrying the chain around the tip of the bar, time for a new roller tip.

Always fun though to get the roller screaming at stupid rpm's with some compressed air. There was usually some sort of warning NOT to do that, which of course was the only thing that even made me think of it. Reminiscent of the warning to not put beans in your ears. Rubber tips on the air blow guns would all have grooves in them from this sort of thing.

 

[Sidecarflip]

Candidly, I do the compressed air thing when cleaning bearings prior to repacking them (automotive and machinery) and while I know that centrifugal force can explode a bearing and possibly the shrapnel could end my life or severely injure me, I do it anyway. Kind of interesting in a way to spool them up...

I just don't consciously spool them up to the point of destruction. Close but no cigar..

Never tried it with a roller nose but now that you mentioned it, I may at some point when I am flipping a bar over. Far as bearings are concerned, they certainly do whizz...

At least with a roller nose, the bearing are caged, unlike a loose bearing is. Caged should keep them from self destructing.... maybe?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Out of curiosity, how did you cut the bar groove lower??

Bar Shop tool has the .050, .058 and .063 discs that resemble mini grinder cut off wheels, The distance between the plate the bar rests on and the chain groove is also somewhat adjustable by using disc shims to center them with various chain bars. The Bar Shops were purposely designed for bar restoration.

 

[Bill G]

Bar Shop tool has the .050, .058 and .063 discs that resemble mini grinder cut off wheels, The distance between the plate the bar rests on and the chain groove is also somewhat adjustable by using disc shims to center them with various chain bars. The Bar Shops were purposely designed for bar restoration.

Have you been able to find any discs for them?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Have you been able to find any discs for them?

Have not needed to try, the shop had a case of disc`s of each size, doubt we ever wore more than one of either size out. Each case had 12 discs in them when new if memory serves me. Only heard/ read there was some still being made, possibly Stens or Oregon carried them but I never searched .

 

[Sidecarflip]

Never heard of it, not that I couldn't replicate the operation using one of my vertical milling machines. I take it this tool has a permanently mounted drive unit and I presume some kind of collet closure at the end to engage a cutter / grinding attachment?
Not that I would anyway simply because at that point, I'd just renew the bar. I did get a couple inquires to a post I posted about 'rocking' a bar, something I do do in the shop on our large platen grinding machine with the base fence set at 90 degrees to vertical. It's mostly used for edge chamfering and deburring parts after machining but since I own it (and all the machines in the shop), I use it to put the rock back into bars that are getting flat (in the upper and lower side) from use as the rock presents the cutter teeth in a more aggressive position to cut.

Thinking about it, I could most likely order a suitable width vitreous grinding wheel and use one of the surface grinders to grind the bar but I'd have to jig a bar to the table securely to do that. Not a big deal as I custom jig a lot of parts though I prefer using the magnetic chuck instead.

Very interesting reply none the less.