Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just about done with this saw . I put new rings in it , didn't do the full base gasket delete . I went with the manila envelope with a sealer . Squish is about .020 -.025. No air leaks and the compression came up ,not as much as I thought it would but it is better. I got the muffler back together after gutting it and adding a second exhaust port. The solder didn't work even though I thought I did a good job . As soon as that muffle got warm it blew that muffler back into two pieces . I brazed it back together and it holding up very well . Another lesson learned.
The carb seems to be keeping up with all this extra air flow . I got it tuned so it is holding a good idle and a quick acceleration. I did a few cuts with it so far so good but I have to back and do some work on the used bar and sharpen the chain better. I have no idea where that carb is set . It had the limiters on it . I set the limiters to fully open and pulled the limiters out and just left it at that setting and went from there . So far no problems with the carb .
Question?? I didn't change any of timing numbers which is why I didn't go for a full base gasket delete. I figured the manila envelope would be a good middle ground between the base stock gasket removal verses no gasket. I tuned the saw by ear to what I felt was right . I checked the high end with a tach and it was only reading about 12,000 rpm. The stock specs for this saw is 14,000 rpm . I did my test cuts with the high end at 12,000 and seemed to do good . I leaned the saw out to about 13,000 -13,500 and it screams, naturally . That 4 stroke burble is there but sounds just a little too lean to me . I am going to try some cuts with it set the way it is to see what happens.
I guess the question is that since the base gasket has been removed and now only has that thinner manila and sealer to seal the cylinder did the timing numbers change enough to where the saw is best left in the lower rpm range or go for broke at the higher rpm's. You wouldn't think these few thousandths of an inch between different gaskets would make that big of difference but I am a little out of my comfort zone on this one. This is the first saw I have actually altered the ports and did a major surgery on the muffler . Getting it tuned right isn't hard but so far has been different than most of the saws I have worked on. How about switching to a 40 to 1 mix instead of 50 to1.
The carb seems to be keeping up with all this extra air flow . I got it tuned so it is holding a good idle and a quick acceleration. I did a few cuts with it so far so good but I have to back and do some work on the used bar and sharpen the chain better. I have no idea where that carb is set . It had the limiters on it . I set the limiters to fully open and pulled the limiters out and just left it at that setting and went from there . So far no problems with the carb .
Question?? I didn't change any of timing numbers which is why I didn't go for a full base gasket delete. I figured the manila envelope would be a good middle ground between the base stock gasket removal verses no gasket. I tuned the saw by ear to what I felt was right . I checked the high end with a tach and it was only reading about 12,000 rpm. The stock specs for this saw is 14,000 rpm . I did my test cuts with the high end at 12,000 and seemed to do good . I leaned the saw out to about 13,000 -13,500 and it screams, naturally . That 4 stroke burble is there but sounds just a little too lean to me . I am going to try some cuts with it set the way it is to see what happens.
I guess the question is that since the base gasket has been removed and now only has that thinner manila and sealer to seal the cylinder did the timing numbers change enough to where the saw is best left in the lower rpm range or go for broke at the higher rpm's. You wouldn't think these few thousandths of an inch between different gaskets would make that big of difference but I am a little out of my comfort zone on this one. This is the first saw I have actually altered the ports and did a major surgery on the muffler . Getting it tuned right isn't hard but so far has been different than most of the saws I have worked on. How about switching to a 40 to 1 mix instead of 50 to1.