thompsons water seal used as log end grain sealer?

[Sawyer Rob]

Where the sealer makes the biggest difference, IMO, isn't on the log but rather on the lumber as it is dried. I know a few who seal the ends of the boards before drying, and others than seal the logs before milling. Either way you have sealer on the end grain before the lumber is dried.

I seal the ends of the logs, and with paint the grit is hard on blades... On painted dry lumber, i had to cut the ends off my boards for the same reason, hard on tools.

NOT SO with Anchorseal! You can saw right through it....no problem at all.

SR

 

[scogar]

No idea comment on what is better to machine when the wood is used but I have used old wax, old wood glue, and old latex paint. I did not do side by side comparisons but I have been pretty happy with all three. The wax has been used on smaller things that I can dip in a crock pot where I keep the old wax, the glue was some bad (earlier frozen) yellow aliphatic glue (it even kinda smelled bad) that I used to seal the ends of riven hickory billets split from logs that I wanted to save for axe handles, etc. These remain perfect...I did not thin the glue and it was a bear to apply as a result. It was also thicker than normal due to the freezing I think. I still have some and hesitated to use it due to how hard it was to apply even though it worked perfectly (but I didn't think of thinning it with water...that I will do next time).

Lastly since I have been milling (started this year) all of that pine has been sealed with crusty old latex paint. The stuff that is out of the sun (I know sun is not good but the wood would have been burned anyway) has remained pretty darn good though it is at most 8 weeks AM old (AM=After Milling).

My thought on Thompsons is I am surprised it is capable of working but hey you guys know, I just never guessed it was an option. No comment on Anchor Seal - I'm sure it is great stuff but I make do with what I have and have been happy with the three alternatives I have used

Scott