Thoughts of adding radiator type cooling to mill saws?

[cityslicker]

I have been thinking of ways to keep the power head a bit cooler during operation while milling. What you you guys think of wrapping small diameter copper pipe (drinking water supply line) around the cooling fins then using a small pump to circulate water through a small radiator with a small computer type fan to cool it? Or perhaps mounting a fan to the saw to force more air through the saw body? I know it would be tricky to keep debris out of the fans but I am wondering if it would help?

 

[woodchuck357]

Wrapping anything around the fins will be counter productive

restricting air flow, don't cha know.

I'm thinking a squirrel cage fan and block of ice.....:rolleyes2:

 

[hamish]

What type and HP of engine?

 

[cityslicker]

The saw would either be a Stihl 090 or 088/880. I realize the copper tubing would restrict airflow to the fins. I just wonder if the copper tubing with water running through it and then through a small radiator like maybe a cars heater core (with small cooling fan) in addition to the air flowing over the copper tubing wrapped fins would be more effective than just airflow?

Do chainsaws have an optimal operating temp? I guess I would then worry if it ran too cold?

 

[qbilder]

Sounds good in theory and should work out once you get it all figured out. However, you will be adding a lot of weight to your rig, as well as a lot of mass. Not only will it be heavier, but will be even more cumbersome to handle than before. That given, i'd think it would be pointless unless you are doing over 4' wide slabs. Anything smaller than that and you might as well get a band saw. I'm not trying to discourage you by any means. I think it's a cool train of thought. Just consider the realities before you spend a lot of time & some money on a project that may not work like you think. Weigh the risk against the reward.

 

[lps8]

what problem

I have a 3120 with a 32" bar. I am the only thing that gets hot. Are you having a problem with your saw?

Larry

 

[BobL]

I have been thinking of ways to keep the power head a bit cooler during operation while milling. What you you guys think of wrapping small diameter copper pipe (drinking water supply line) around the cooling fins then using a small pump to circulate water through a small radiator with a small computer type fan to cool it? Or perhaps mounting a fan to the saw to force more air through the saw body? I know it would be tricky to keep debris out of the fans but I am wondering if it would help?

I can't see why you would have a temp problem in and around Tacoma. Big chainsaws have operated without the need for any for additional cooling in steamy jungles and very high temperature environments like Australia without for decades any problems.

If you want to ease the thermal load off a big saw keep the chain sharp and the rakers well set and allow it to self feed as much as possible ie don't push too hard. Let the saw warm up and cool down after long cuts and keep the saw well tuned and a little on the rich side also aids cooling.

I reckon it would be a complete waste of time to run pipes around a saw as the thermal connection between any pipe and the fins would be way too small and the amount of air blockage would outweigh the benefit obtained. For pipes to be effective they need a large surface contact area with the cylinder and head metal.

I don't know if you have seen that my 880 has a temp gauge on it and this is most enlightening to see the effect of running the saw with the fins blocked and also with the top plastic cover off. The Engineers that designed these covers and openings have certainly done their homework.

 

[cityslicker]

These are all excellent responses folks and exactly what I was hoping for, thank you! I mostly mill wide slabs which does put an immense load on the saw. Bill I did see your temp gauge and will be installing one as soon as my saw gets back, I have also ordered an on board tach as you use also. I make sure to keep my chains sharp but I suppose I could keep them sharper, the saw does mostly self feed with just a little bit of help. The reason I am thinking of these things is because the saw got too hot and started to overheat the piston which is likely why it was becoming so hard to get started. Once I have some more info and a few more pics I will post them in the other thread. Thanks for all your comments! Maybe I need an 090?

 

[sun64]

There are a few things you could do.
1, would be to bolt on a small 12 volt fan over the side of the motor.
They can be fairly small and lightweight.
Only downside is not tripping over the wire as you mill and one side of the cylinder could be cooler than the other side.

2, The second option is the get the inside of the cylinder head , top of piston , intake and exhaust ports ceramic coated which would significantly reduce your internal combustion temperature down.
Depends how far you want to go.

 

[BobL]

There are a few things you could do.
1, would be to bolt on a small 12 volt fan over the side of the motor.

Part of my day job involves moving and filtering air for ultraclean laboratories. One thing I know is that stacking two fans together (the fan in the engine and a 12V fan) in the manner you suggest may not necessarily improve the movement of air. To do this the air speeds at the point of air contact must be matched. If one blows much harder than the other can suck the total flow may even be reduced. Likewise if two fans are placed at an angle to each other the airs streams may fight each other and the total flow may not increase much or at all. In short it sounds like it would be a bit of hit and miss that might lead to a cooked motor.

 

[sun64]

Part of my day job involves moving and filtering air for ultraclean laboratories. One thing I know is that stacking two fans together (the fan in the engine and a 12V fan) in the manner you suggest may not necessarily improve the movement of air. To do this the air speeds at the point of air contact must be matched. If one blows much harder than the other can suck the total flow may even be reduced. Likewise if two fans are placed at an angle to each other the airs streams may fight each other and the total flow may not increase much or at all. In short it sounds like it would be a bit of hit and miss that might lead to a cooked motor.

True, that may happen but you can place tha fan on the starter side to boost the flow through the motor or on the clutch side, use a thermo fan like on a radiator to help such air through the motor.
I doubt either or these ways would cook a motor.
On my CIG tig welder, it had duty cycle problems with the design.
It had 2 x fans blowing onto the aluminium buzz bar.
I placed another 2 fans on opp side so they sucked the air over / through the buzz bar.
My duty cycle rate went up around 10 to 15 % more.
I have had to do this to mig welders when their is a fault in the electronics card and they play up when hot.
Sometimes you need to finish off what you are doing and then source the problem with the card later.

Sorry if my reply was misleading where it was implied that the two air flow streams would clash with each other.
I did say 12 vold but never explained myself fully as I was at work.

If you have the motor appart, then ceramic coat the internal components of the moter.
In the States, the cost would be 1/2 to 1/3 the cost than in Australia.
Just trying to give the OP some other ideas out of the box if he has cooling problems
I know a guy in Gelong whos MS 660 is ported, raised compression and internals ceramic coated.
Hope this helps the Op.
Cheers Wayne

 

[BlueRider]

I suspect you will notice more of an improvement by redirecting the exhaust so it does'nt bounce off the log and back into the powerhead. While your at it you might as well tune the pipe and reduce the back pressure.