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If our farmers took yuan for their exports they wouldn't need dollars. But our farmers would really like payment in dollars.

I guess we could stop buying things from China. But then they couldn't buy our stuff.

Works both ways
No, they would just have to buy dollars first. Oil is almost exclusively traded in dollars for instance.
 
Rings need dynamic load to be pressed into the cylinder wall, ie needs to be worked. All that idle time is pure wives tails and bs. No reason to run any other oil ratio then what you're normally going to run either. Doesn't matter if it's synthetic or not. Warm it up a bit and go cut.
Good response.
The other thing is the fact you have a limited time for break in to occur. You go past that time period and the engine never properly breaks in. IE the rings never seat properly.
 
After reading quite a number of posts here from people that know more about how a saw works than I do, I think I'm going to abandon the idle thing. First tank I'll run it in wood half or 3/4 power then go ahead and start cutting.
Warm it up and get it eat full throttle.
Good response.
The other thing is the fact you have a limited time for break in to occur. You go past that time period and the engine never properly breaks in. IE the rings never seat properly.
Cylinders glazing sucks to deal with. Fourtatnly I haven't dealt with it in many years.
 
Good response.
The other thing is the fact you have a limited time for break in to occur. You go past that time period and the engine never properly breaks in. IE the rings never seat properly.

I did that to myself with my Honda generator. Bought it new for an ice storm, and it basically idled the next 6 days, only revving up when the freezer compressor kicked on. Had a lot of other things going on, didn't even think about doing proper break in. Runs reliably, but runs like crap. Plug gets dirty, pings at low loads, blows blue smoke when throttling up, oil gets dirty fast, all the things you'd expect from improper ring seal. No clue how much less life the engine will have because of this. Hear about these things going crazy long hours but no way this one will.

Last few times I've run it have been for 4+ hours at near full load charging batteries, and that seems to be helping. Ideally I'd tear it down, hone new cross hatch in the cylinder, put new rings in it, and break it in again properly.

Properly break in your stuff, folks. You only get one shot.
 
I did that to myself with my Honda generator. Bought it new for an ice storm, and it basically idled the next 6 days, only revving up when the freezer compressor kicked on. Had a lot of other things going on, didn't even think about doing proper break in. Runs reliably, but runs like crap. Plug gets dirty, pings at low loads, blows blue smoke when throttling up, oil gets dirty fast, all the things you'd expect from improper ring seal. No clue how much less life the engine will have because of this. Hear about these things going crazy long hours but no way this one will.

Last few times I've run it have been for 4+ hours at near full load charging batteries, and that seems to be helping. Ideally I'd tear it down, hone new cross hatch in the cylinder, put new rings in it, and break it in again properly.

Properly break in your stuff, folks. You only get one shot.
Generators all have the same problem. Even with proper break in they run unloaded so long that alot of fuel gets into the oil, the plugs run dirty and eventually the rings wear prematurely to the point they burn oil.
 
Generators all have the same problem. Even with proper break in they run unloaded so long that alot of fuel gets into the oil, the plugs run dirty and eventually the rings wear prematurely to the point they burn oil.

That's been one unintended bonus of the solar power system and large battery bank. During winter in this area solar basically does nothing, so power outages are handled by generator. Now instead of idling 24/7 and reving up here and there, the generator runs at nearly full output for a few hours one day, and then not at all for a couple days. Lot better all the way around.
 
we load banked tons of generators at the shop. Usually big diesels, slobber the exhaust up to the point you'd have to take it off and burn it out, or replace it. Few times you could get them hot enough with the load bank to burn themselves out. They never lasted as long as generators that had built in load banks or were loaded heavily, regularly. All the running with no load to make sure they run is pure bs.
More or less same thing applies to small gas/gaseous generators. Although they usually break in very quickly vs diesel powered generators.
I've never personally seen someone recover a fully glazed cylinder without disassembly and new rings, so I would think performance and longevity would be greatly decreased.
 
I did that to myself with my Honda generator. Bought it new for an ice storm, and it basically idled the next 6 days, only revving up when the freezer compressor kicked on. Had a lot of other things going on, didn't even think about doing proper break in. Runs reliably, but runs like crap. Plug gets dirty, pings at low loads, blows blue smoke when throttling up, oil gets dirty fast, all the things you'd expect from improper ring seal. No clue how much less life the engine will have because of this. Hear about these things going crazy long hours but no way this one will.

Last few times I've run it have been for 4+ hours at near full load charging batteries, and that seems to be helping. Ideally I'd tear it down, hone new cross hatch in the cylinder, put new rings in it, and break it in again properly.

Properly break in your stuff, folks. You only get one shot.
try running hd30 oil in it with at least a 80% load for 5-6 hrs then change it out. if the hd30 reduces or stops the smoke keep using it..ive seen several small engines fail to seat rings properly due to having synthetic oil used as break in oil or not reading the directions to change the oil after the first hour of run time. I put magnetic drain plugs into the last brand new honda 6.5hp I broke in, I changed the oil after a hour and both plugs were afro puffs so I did it again and it was half as much material. today that engine probably has well over 3000 hours on it and the magnets stay pretty clean.
 
try running hd30 oil in it with at least a 80% load for 5-6 hrs then change it out. if the hd30 reduces or stops the smoke keep using it..ive seen several small engines fail to seat rings properly due to having synthetic oil used as break in oil or not reading the directions to change the oil after the first hour of run time. I put magnetic drain plugs into the last brand new honda 6.5hp I broke in, I changed the oil after a hour and both plugs were afro puffs so I did it again and it was half as much material. today that engine probably has well over 3000 hours on it and the magnets stay pretty clean.

It's got over 200 hours on it now, there's no saving it without honing in new cross hatch, re-ringing, and proper break in. I disagree with you on synthetic and on straight 30 weight.

I'm well versed in proper break-in procedure and have done so on plenty of other engines before and since. Had a lot going on at the time, once the generator was running and the necessities were powered back up, I had other problems to solve.
 
1,Go to your email, get the email address of their customer service that you dealt with.
2, send an email -it will bounce back.
3 Call your credit card company. They will start by telling you it is beyond the time period they can dispute.
4, Tell CC this was a POS out of the box and that you were in contact with FT re the warranty and still are trying to resolve the issue. Have the purchase date, email dates, video dates and most current email date......yesterday. The CC "MAY" ask for copies though I have never had it happen.

They will issue a credit and will advise that if FT disputes your dispute you may have to provide more info.
Most importantly DO NOT LIE. That is FRAUD. State the facts, you were in contact and still are in contact and they are refusing to make it right.

You bought an item with express merchantability and it was NOT as advertised. END OF STORY.
 
I negated to post at the time yesterday there was a video floating around of a chainsaw factory building clones that bragged about cleanliness, working conditions and showed them starting every saw.
As the saws aren't coated in oil, carbon or smell of gas and mix it is a mystery as to how they test them....not really.
The Homelite carbs I bought were 100% junk and the ones that did run (rough) had the screws all the way in like they were set on a flow bench to overcome the internal issues.
The TS360 starter handle pulled off 3rd pull, re did the knot and the spring let go.
TS 400 same.
1 TS 400 cylinder showed bore marks (out of round)
Clutches are an absolute disaster
TS 510 pistons were too tight to go over rods
Several bearings were loose tolerances.
Poulan gas caps not vented
And the list goes on. To think they could actually get one to run would be hopeful.
 
I negated to post at the time yesterday there was a video floating around of a chainsaw factory building clones that bragged about cleanliness, working conditions and showed them starting every saw.
As the saws aren't coated in oil, carbon or smell of gas and mix it is a mystery as to how they test them....not really.
The Homelite carbs I bought were 100% junk and the ones that did run (rough) had the screws all the way in like they were set on a flow bench to overcome the internal issues.
The TS360 starter handle pulled off 3rd pull, re did the knot and the spring let go.
TS 400 same.
1 TS 400 cylinder showed bore marks (out of round)
Clutches are an absolute disaster
TS 510 pistons were too tight to go over rods
Several bearings were loose tolerances.
Poulan gas caps not vented
And the list goes on. To think they could actually get one to run would be hopeful.
I've bought two Farmertec clones in the last year and both have performed flawlessly so far. the 660 Pro and a 361. Still breaking the 361 in. Pretty sure they tested the newest saw at the factory, as the bar oiler port had oil residue in it and I caught a slight smell of gas. Had it fired up in just a few pulls.

IMG_20250121_164357127.jpg
 
Hello All,

Long time reader, first time poster. I wanted to warn everyone of the underhanded tactics Farmertec utilizes. I like most other people, could not afford a big saw for the little work i was planning on using, and could not even afford a used big saw that i could find. So i was lured to the Clone saw, especially the G395XP. I watched video after video, read post after post, and review after review. I was sold, yeah, i knew it wasn't a pro saw but for the little milling work i planned to do, it would be perfect, or so i thought. (Learn more about the desparity between good and bad reviews later.)

I was drawn to their website, but needed the saw quickly, and with their insane shipping prices, it was almost a wash to buy it on Ebay or Amazon with ultra fast ship times. So I made my purchase, and counted the days until my beautiful new toy arrived. The day it finally arrived, the package was damaged, and it cracked a little bit of the recoil cover, but hey i bought a new saw, I will contact them about that. The next day off, i took the time to put everything together, look for debris in the intake, check it out with a fine tooth comb. The oiler immediately started to leak, i think i got it fixed, but who knows. Then i noticed as many stated, the tensioner wasn't right, so i unthreaded the tensioner, and as i suspected, it was cross threaded, once i fixed it, seemed to work good. I fueld that bad boy up, turned the kill switch on, put the choke on and then began the 3 hours of non stop pulling (Off an on as its a big saw and it was kicking my butt). I pulled the plug it was getting fuel, but during the day it was hard to check for spark, but thought i felt a zap when i held on to it (Old farm trick), but probably the reason i feel these things still as it caused nerve damage. I played around with the plug cap, and noticed it seemed loose, and the wire inside didn't seem right, so i pulled it apart and put it back together right. I also noticed the plug was a cheap piece of crap so i bought a new plug, and the next day i would for sure get it running. After about an hour, i was able to get the beast to roar to life, i was so excited, but I knew not to touch it, so i lightly feathered the throttle and got her nice and warm before i shut her down to cool. I had run out of time that day, so i would go back the next day and do a couple of thermal cycles to break her in some. The next day, i pulled for hours again, it appeared to be getting spark, but maybe it was intermittent. I was finally able to get it to run and couldn't resist, ran over to a stack of logs and lightly cut through a couple, man this thing was a beast, but 5 minutes in, it stalled, never to fire again.

I spent days looking everything over, but to no avail. I took the saw to my buddies, we spent hours looking everything over, he thought maybe it had a faulty kill switch, and could see the carb was dumping way too much fuel, but other then that we could not find anything wrong. A few weeks later, i took the saw to a friend who used to be a small engine technician. He immediately started pulling parts off the saw, checking everything. He told me the magneto was junk, the kill switch was probably bad as it didn't have a definitive break when he actuated it, the carb was shot, and upon inspection, stated the cylinder had too much wear for only being run 10-15 minutes tops. He stated back in the old days, saw manufacturers would take defective saws back, fix them up (Aka clean them), and resell as new. He said that what had probably happened is the magneto started out good, then crapped out on the original owner, went back they were able to get it to fire, cleaned it and resold it, and it worked intermittently for a short time before FAIL.

So now i have a NEW? saw with a bad cylinder, bad piston, bad kill switch, bad magneto, defective chain adjuster, defective chain brake (Oh yeah, forgot about that one, im not a little guy and can barely get this thing to release), a possibly bad oiler (Never got to really test it), and a damage recoil. I had already been contacting Hutzl regarding this saw and getting a warranty replacement, they kept saying they would send me the parts, and asking me inane questions, requesting odd photos, telling me to pull parts off, take videos, etc. etc. I kept requesting a replacement saw as i no longer trusted this one, had already dumped large amounts of time into the saw, spent some of my money on it, and was informed the inside was damage, i mean what else could be wrong down the road. Then it all quit, no responses, i went to click on something else in their listings and it told me i was not an authorized purchaser or somethign to that regard, they had blocked me. I tried to place a bad reveiw, i couldn't do that either. I contacted Ebay customer service, but they would do nothing as because of their underhanded tactics, they had drawn me out long enough to get past the Ebay guarantee.

I then started to contact the parent company, Farmertec in China. Same tactics, they would offer parts, i would say no i want a new saw or a refund, then they would block me. Several months, and 3 or 4 different email accounts, and i am done, every account is blocked, they won't even answer me in their little chat on the website anymore.

So a year an a half later, i am out my money, still have a saw that doesn't run, they wouldn't send me a single part, a replacement, or a refund. Ebay was absolutely no help even though they made me feel they were trying, their advice has been to contact outside help sources. FTC, BBB, etc. but none of these agencies have any authority to make a resolution. And i can't even write a review on Ebay to warn people about their saws.

So I post this as a warning to all who are contemplating purchasing a Chinese saw, be very very careful. Have all of your ducks in a row, test that thing extensively as soon as you get it so you don't avoid the Ebay or Amazon safety net. And if you do not, at least do what i read about a few weeks ago, purchase the Allstate warranty on Ebay or Amazon for your saw, its only i htink $18 for 2 years. At least form what i read on there, they are great about replacing the defective items.

Good luck,

Joe

Sorry about the long window response, but i wanted to show everyone that i did my due diligence trying to resolve this through the proper channels, but what i learned is the warranty is as Tommy boy described it in the movie, a piece of **** in box labeled with a warranty because the word warranty makes you feel warm and fuzzy inside. And don't believe all the good reviews you see on Ebay, because before people can post a negative review, they block them so the numbers are very skewed in their favor.
Very nice review. I figured there had to be some bad ones out there' I was hoping they stepped up their game from 10 to 20 years ago. I heard about changing the plug, chain adjuster, recoil, coil. But there is some good reviews out there on them lasting years milling. I have 25 to 30 logs piled up wanting to try some milling but don't know if I have it in me anymore I'm 64 but feel 80. But still want to try' I have a like new stihl ms461 then an old 064 that runs great but was told just buy a Big Clone saw G888 and you will be set. I'm still rolling it around I'm figuring about 1,500 tops I should have everything I need. We will see //
 
After reading quite a number of posts here from people that know more about how a saw works than I do, I think I'm going to abandon the idle thing. First tank I'll run it in wood half or 3/4 power then go ahead and start cutting.
Run it wide open, just dont get it real hot.
 
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