thoughts on buying a sandblasting cabinet for saw prep

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I'm not real familiar with magnesium but when I was powder coating the consensus on the powder coating forums was stay away from glass media. It has silica/silicone and is not good for prepping parts to be coated. Same thing as leaving silicone wax on a part then painting it. That may only apply to the guys who are looking for perfect finishes but do some research and decide for yourself. I always used aluminum oxide and I coated a lot of condemned titanium and mag helicopter parts for setup. I use the HF cabinet but sealed it on the inside and out with a 2 part sealer. I also fashioned a deflector on the door to keep media from piling up on the ledge and falling out when opening it. I also just used a shop vac with a filter bag on the inside. It did ok, not great. I threw away the HF gun and used the TP tools replacement with carbide tips. Also grab their gloves, they are 10x nicer.
 
I spent a lot of time reading and researching and browsing and I just cant get a cabinet working in my garage for any reasonable amount of money.
My electric service is too small for the 3HP motor I need to run to get enough air for even a small cabinet.
permits alone would be 1500.00 to pull for the new drop to the garage :(
I bought a parts washer today and will work on getting stuff clean with that and the big ultrasonic before sending anything out for powder.
thanks for the help in deciding I am too cheap to move forward with this process, seriously the info here is boundless
Dave
 
I spent a lot of time reading and researching and browsing and I just cant get a cabinet working in my garage for any reasonable amount of money.
My electric service is too small for the 3HP motor I need to run to get enough air for even a small cabinet.
permits alone would be 1500.00 to pull for the new drop to the garage :(
I bought a parts washer today and will work on getting stuff clean with that and the big ultrasonic before sending anything out for powder.
thanks for the help in deciding I am too cheap to move forward with this process, seriously the info here is boundless
Dave

There are always the gas powered compressors. You might also want to look at the powder365, and powder by the pound forums for powder coating strippers. Lots of guys use them when a new coating goes bad. Much much quicker than blasting, but dangerous stuff, definitely want to follow the msds on them. Also don't want to put grease in them.
 
Hence the post above. No need for permits. My family uses an old gas 85cfm compressor. Hard to beat $ for cfm
the engine locked up is a deal killer for me
I could use the diesel generator I bought to power the house in storms but still a lot of hassle and money involved for the small amount of use it will get.
Going to try the powerwasher then, new parts washer and then the ultrasonic to see if I can get cases clean enough to see any damage and mag rot before I send them away
Dave
 
Bobs shop where i blasted 5 cases tonight for dave the cabinet takes a 45 lb bag of black beauty run by a rotary screw comp 122 cfm and it cycles with 275 gallon tanks Damn that a lot of blasting. Went thru 5 sheets on the window and had to repair media fill line it takes a beating. Hole in it


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That wet process looks cool too, but looks like it needs even more air :(

I was at harbor freight with my brother and I saw a small portable sand blasting rig that only needed 5 CFM or so, I asked out loud " I wonder if that would be worth trying"?
my brother smacked me in the back of the head and walked away :)
Dave
 
OK so I need to fab up a mounting bracket for 2 dozen 1128 series saws to sit front to back in a straight line.
2. next some type of easily replicated outboard clutch drive to extend the sprockets on each saw out past the top handles and normal clutch cover spacing.
3. 1488 DL 38" cutter-less chain
4. twin cylinder HF compressor head mounted to empty 55gallon oil drum for holding capacity
5. custom compressor spindle with toothed in- drive and chain tensioner pulley

hell yeah that seems totally do-able :)
 
Is rust on steel parts more of a problem with the water setup?

Yes with a vapor honing system. In my world of restoration bare steel parts get treated, plated, coated or painted right away.
 
Blasted cast iron rusts as soon as your done blasting Phosphate then oven dry then powder


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Right and that's why I went to great lengths to make sure the air was dry when blasting, on top of clumping issues but now that I think about it the phosphate process involved water too.
 
yeah got a pull a permit to install new electrical service from house to the garage, and more particularly a licensed
electrician has to pull and pay for the permit, it counts as a building addition :(
such is life in the city <shrug>
Dave

Sounds like a welder drop cord from your dryer jack would be a cheaper solution. Just can't do laundry and run the air compressor at the same time.
 
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