murphy4trees
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Had to clear a large yew bush with a tall skinny spruce yesterday..
Hope these pics make it as the 'puter is acting up
Hope these pics make it as the 'puter is acting up
thowing tops
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murphy4trees
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Geting good action shots with the digital camera is a challenge cause there is a shutter delay... I tried to time it so the pice was in mid air, but it hasn't broken free yet.. this was the last cut so I cut it short..
murphy4trees
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here's a wide shot of the whole scene.. everything on the driveway landed where you see it... no damage to the big yew..
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Rock n roll there, Daniel!
I TD two (wisteria-covered
) pines myself today.
I TD two (wisteria-covered
) pines myself today.wiley_p
ArboristSite Guru
Arent the flowers pretty this time of year, and the contrast with whats left of the conifer limbs is to die for.
Kneejerk Bombas
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Who's the gun? That ain't you or Jon.
murphy4trees
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's me MM,
I started wearing a cover all body suit when grinding stumps and as long as it's not too hot, I like to stay clean these days...
What do they call that flame retaerdent material... had to buy it while working at a refinery a few years ago...
I can kick off the suit and boots, slip into a pair of loafers and go on estimates or hang out in the customers house....
I started wearing a cover all body suit when grinding stumps and as long as it's not too hot, I like to stay clean these days...
What do they call that flame retaerdent material... had to buy it while working at a refinery a few years ago...
I can kick off the suit and boots, slip into a pair of loafers and go on estimates or hang out in the customers house....
Nickrosis
Manned by Boderators
Nomex?
MasterBlaster
TreeHouse Elder
Where ya been???
murphy4trees
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ya Nomex..
That's a $90 suit I Am working on getting my money's worth out of..
That's a $90 suit I Am working on getting my money's worth out of..
murphy4trees
Addicted to ArboristSite
block notch
What seemed to work well on this thin spruce was cutting a narrow notch with a little angle to both cuts in the notch, then cleaning out the notch, making it a few kerfs wide at its union, which is basically a block notch. This block notch got some air time a week or so ago... That seemed to really work well... Someone else mentioned using this notch for topping cypress I think..
What do you all like to use when throwing tops???
What seemed to work well on this thin spruce was cutting a narrow notch with a little angle to both cuts in the notch, then cleaning out the notch, making it a few kerfs wide at its union, which is basically a block notch. This block notch got some air time a week or so ago... That seemed to really work well... Someone else mentioned using this notch for topping cypress I think..
What do you all like to use when throwing tops???
Mostly wideface, then race thru so that it doesn't make much differance, just giving plenty of clearance.
To go faster with the same saw, i pre-cut from each side; figuring same horsepower/less fiber. If i want to slow down i can; but reaching highest speeds only by precutting. Sometimes i don't need all of the speed; but like the wider range of control over this element.
On a fair sized/leverageable top; i don't get more fancy; i try to get it to launch after leaning forward slightly, so that as much of the kickback goes down the spar (if any) rather than across. Especially when taking weight off one side, where it has to be in a different position when you finish.
On smaller tops(hanging on hinge, rather than detatch quickly), pieces; perhaps if i want to come straight thru and then skew R - might make a conventional knotch; then drop the right floor from the right meeting of face cuts to front center of face. Machine languge says come straight pulling on hinge sides unitl left face meets, then push from left to right as right hinge is still pulling at the same time . The original conventional knotch angle, commands amount of travel straight. Even with some less elastic fibers, if solid faces, after free fall straight so many degrees; right is the path of least resistance for left is blocked. Used to steer into and away from stuff, thread through small gauntlets, make sure when top hits ground less likely to roll back towards where thrown from etc; and sometimes fun to play with the controls, see and feel what you can do!
Or something like that.........
:alien:
To go faster with the same saw, i pre-cut from each side; figuring same horsepower/less fiber. If i want to slow down i can; but reaching highest speeds only by precutting. Sometimes i don't need all of the speed; but like the wider range of control over this element.
On a fair sized/leverageable top; i don't get more fancy; i try to get it to launch after leaning forward slightly, so that as much of the kickback goes down the spar (if any) rather than across. Especially when taking weight off one side, where it has to be in a different position when you finish.
On smaller tops(hanging on hinge, rather than detatch quickly), pieces; perhaps if i want to come straight thru and then skew R - might make a conventional knotch; then drop the right floor from the right meeting of face cuts to front center of face. Machine languge says come straight pulling on hinge sides unitl left face meets, then push from left to right as right hinge is still pulling at the same time . The original conventional knotch angle, commands amount of travel straight. Even with some less elastic fibers, if solid faces, after free fall straight so many degrees; right is the path of least resistance for left is blocked. Used to steer into and away from stuff, thread through small gauntlets, make sure when top hits ground less likely to roll back towards where thrown from etc; and sometimes fun to play with the controls, see and feel what you can do!
Or something like that.........
:alien:
rumination
ArboristSite Guru
Murphy, I have never used a block notch before and am curious as to what you feel its advantages are. Seems like at first thought that its just a really fat kerf dutchman so that the top jumps off quickly after leaning over. Do I have that right?
I am not familiar with spruce or cypress. What characteristics do these woods have that make them amenable to a block notch?
Thanks
I am not familiar with spruce or cypress. What characteristics do these woods have that make them amenable to a block notch?
Thanks
Rob Murphy
ArboristSite Operative
Wing Cuts
I would add some wing cuts, to prevent bark tear down and also means less holding wood. It is a must to give them a good push as the the hinge wood shears....Yehhhhhh
I would add some wing cuts, to prevent bark tear down and also means less holding wood. It is a must to give them a good push as the the hinge wood shears....Yehhhhhh
Everthing both Murph's mentioned works. Main thing though is to make a face cut only 25-40 degrees open, so that the section can be pushed off as it breaks, while it's pretty much horizontal.
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