Throttle Response

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Farmer_Nate

Better Saws are Better...and Gut that Muffler!
AS Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2022
Messages
698
Reaction score
769
Location
Kentucky...near Frankfort
How does one get the best possible throttle response from a saw? I want my saws to leap into action when I trigger 'em.
What variables affect it?

I have a particular saw is cold blooded. It starts and runs great, but when it's cold throttle response is weaker. After warming up, it is more snappy. I of course warm all my saws before really getting on the throttle or loading them.

Tell me if I am wrong...things that affect it:

1 ) L screw. Should be a little rich?
2) Chain and chain lube and chain size, i.e. weight and chain friction, stuff that takes energy to get things going?
3) Idle speed? Faster idle jumps more on trigger press?
4) Design of engine such as "blowdown" and stuff like that?

Thanks
 
How does one get the best possible throttle response from a saw? I want my saws to leap into action when I trigger 'em.
What variables affect it?

I have a particular saw is cold blooded. It starts and runs great, but when it's cold throttle response is weaker. After warming up, it is more snappy. I of course warm all my saws before really getting on the throttle or loading them.

Tell me if I am wrong...things that affect it:

1 ) L screw. Should be a little rich?
2) Chain and chain lube and chain size, i.e. weight and chain friction, stuff that takes energy to get things going?
3) Idle speed? Faster idle jumps more on trigger press?
4) Design of engine such as "blowdown" and stuff like that?

Thanks
Buy a 500I
 
this is a deep rabbit hole of a question.

for the variables already mentioned how could one not also consider that rotating mass plays a part......and then for that matter too what about the throttle linkage i.e. push rod (357xp) vs. roller push rod (242xp) vs. cable (372) vs. others?
 
this is a deep rabbit hole of a question.



for the variables already mentioned how could one not also consider that rotating mass plays a part......and then for that matter too what about the throttle linkage i.e. push rod (357xp) vs. roller push rod (242xp) vs. cable (372) vs. others?
Fly wheel and crank mass plays a part, but mostly how fast it revs out and the engines response to changes in load.
When throttle response is talked about its mostly about how crisp the carb settings are. On a saw your kinda limited as it only has two jets. As a result you ifetn can't get them laser crisp like you can on a bike or sled carb that have 5 or 6 jets.
 
Thanks all.

Since the saw in question is an older Husqvarna similar to another I have which performs better, I am still leaning toward carb adjustments being the culprit.

Carb parts such as diaphragms are new.
Seals check out in both vacuum and in pressure.

I can definitely double-check linkages. I guess slop there could cause problems for sure.
 
That will make throttle response doggy.
To get crisp throttle response you need the LS on what most of you would consider the lean side, not overly rich.

You get idle/Lo sorted out. Go to Hi. Back to idle/Lo. Repeat. Maybe twice

If bogging when opening throttle it's too lean on Lo.
 
OK

I have done the method before of ...

1) listen to idle speed,
2) turn L screw,
3) listen to idle speed,
4) adjust L to find highest idle speed location,
5) then richen L just a tad from there to lower idle a tick

I always make sure H is rich enough to cause burbling or 4-strokin' at the top end while unloaded.
Maybe it is still too rich overall
 
OK

I have done the method before of ...

1) listen to idle speed,
2) turn L screw,
3) listen to idle speed,
4) adjust L to find highest idle speed location,
5) then richen L just a tad from there to lower idle a tick

I always make sure H is rich enough to cause burbling or 4-strokin' at the top end while unloaded.
Maybe it is still too rich overall

I put Lo halfway between race(lean) and die(rich) and reset idle. Repeat.
 
Sensors are nice.
Until they go bad.

I like the old pre-limiter carbs.

I like my old truck with a manual choke that I can work on with simple tools, even if I have to warm it up and be careful cold weather not to flood it. Todays kids are baffled with a car/truck choke, soon they won't know what a clutch does..........
 
Back
Top