Ms 192 tc weird stalling after running

[BadgerClaw]

What ,it will fire on a bit of gas?

Right. If the jet is clogged or getting enough gas by doing that?

 

[lone wolf]

No

Did it fire on a bit of gas? I need to know that first. So It's apart now, but did you try that earlier? Did you see that the choke closes 100 percent? Can you do a vac test?

 

[BadgerClaw]

Did it fire on a bit of gas? I need to know that first. So It's apart now, but did you try that earlier? Did you see that the choke closes 100 percent? Can you do a vac test?

Yes and it fires with choke closed and then after but then dies and I have to repeat as if it's cold every time.

 

[lone wolf]

Yes and it fires with choke closed and then after but then dies and I have to repeat as if it's cold every time.

Well, it sounds like it could be the carb, but it would have been better if you did an accurate compression test . Post some real clear pics of that piston again both sides.
Did you put new fuel line and filter on?
What's the history of the saw, what led up to all this?
Are you capable of doing a Vac and pressure test?
Is the impulse line damaged?

 

[ZeroJunk]

Well, it sounds like it could be the carb, but it would have been better if you did an accurate compression test . Post some real clear pics of that piston again both sides.
Did you put new fuel line and filter on?
What's the history of the saw, what led up to all this?
Are you capable of doing a Vac and pressure test?
Is the impulse line damaged?

Inline spark testers really come in handy. Equipment will run just fine with it in place and if the spark in intermittent you can see it.
Something to rule out.

 

[stihltech]

Wow! Getting way ahead of ourselves. There is low compression. Diagnose first.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Wow! Getting way ahead of ourselves. There is low compression. Diagnose first.

No, I think his good running saw read the same on his compression tester.

 

[BadgerClaw]

Well, it sounds like it could be the carb, but it would have been better if you did an accurate compression test . Post some real clear pics of that piston again both sides.
Did you put new fuel line and filter on?
What's the history of the saw, what led up to all this?
Are you capable of doing a Vac and pressure test?
Is the impulse line damaged?

I agree I only have the car engine compression tester. But since it had the same reading on my working saw I assume compression is good. And both sides of the piston look good I took the pict of the worst looking side. New filter and fuel line I vacuum test and was good. I saw no impulse line damage or leaks. I did drop it frI m a tree once but I can't remember if that caused the issue it was so long ago.

 

[BadgerClaw]

Well, it sounds like it could be the carb, but it would have been better if you did an accurate compression test . Post some real clear pics of that piston again both sides.
Did you put new fuel line and filter on?
What's the history of the saw, what led up to all this?
Are you capable of doing a Vac and pressure test?
Is the impulse line damaged?

I agree I only have the car engine compression tester. But since it had the same reading on my working saw I assume compression is good. And both sides of the piston look good I took the pict of the worst looking side. New filter and fuel line I vacuum test and was good. I saw no impulse line damage or leaks. I did drop it frI m a tree once but I can't remember if that caused the issue it was so long ago

Inline spark testers really come in handy. Equipment will run just fine with it in place and if the spark in intermittent you can see it.
Something to rule out.

I may buy one then. I tried the old pulling while plug is against engine in boot and saw spark but probably not as accurate.

 

[lone wolf]

I agree I only have the car engine compression tester. But since it had the same reading on my working saw I assume compression is good. And both sides of the piston look good I took the pict of the worst looking side. New filter and fuel line I vacuum test and was good. I saw no impulse line damage or leaks. I did drop it frI m a tree once but I can't remember if that caused the issue it was so long ago

I may buy one then. I tried the old pulling while plug is against engine in boot and saw spark but probably not as accurate.

Well from what you told me so far I would suggest it's the carb or coil. I use a Snap on automotive tester and it works fine . Post a clear pic of the screw in end of your tester. Wait how many pulls did you do, did you stop at a number of pulls or keep pulling till it stopped rising? Also did your old carb and new carb act exactly the same, if so maybe it is the coil! You need to do an accurate compression test before buying anything ,possibly buy a proper tester if we can't get that one working first.

 

[gerrywoodsy482]

Nice, the community coming through with the expertise. It's always refreshing when a seemingly complex issue turns out to have a simple fix.

 

[lone wolf]

Nice, the community coming through with the expertise. It's always refreshing when a seemingly complex issue turns out to have a simple fix.

Well it isn't easy over the net either.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I agree I only have the car engine compression tester. But since it had the same reading on my working saw I assume compression is good. And both sides of the piston look good I took the pict of the worst looking side. New filter and fuel line I vacuum test and was good. I saw no impulse line damage or leaks. I did drop it frI m a tree once but I can't remember if that caused the issue it was so long ago

I may buy one then. I tried the old pulling while plug is against engine in boot and saw spark but probably not as accurate.

I had a BR600 blower yesterday that would run fine for a while, then skip, then run fine for a while.
When it would skip the neon or whatever the bulb is would quit as well.

I took the cover off and removed the kill wires from the ignition module , put it back together, and started it up. Same thing. So, it was not wiring.

Replaced ignition module and problem solved.

Just rule thing out as you go and try not to do two things at once, then you don't know which one it was.

 

[BadgerClaw]

I had a BR600 blower yesterday that would run fine for a while, then skip, then run fine for a while.
When it would skip the neon or whatever the bulb is would quit as well.

I took the cover off and removed the kill wires from the ignition module , put it back together, and started it up. Same thing. So, it was not wiring.

Replaced ignition module and problem solved.

Just rule thing out as you go and try not to do two things at once, then you don't know which one it was.

Ok thanks for all the help guys turns out to be the carb after all. lesson learned don't go cheap on some things and just because you thought you ruled something out by buying a cheap one ain't always the case.

On another not anyone live in Virginia?

 

[lone wolf]

Ok thanks for all the help guys turns out to be the carb after all. lesson learned don't go cheap on some things and just because you thought you ruled something out by buying a cheap one ain't always the case.

On another not anyone live in Virginia?

Tell everyone about that China junk.

 

[BadgerClaw]

Tell everyone about that China junk.

Yes china Amazon carb didn't fix the the run and stall issue. Would run for 10 seconds cut off and die and be hard to restart. But choke would always pop off as normal. So I don't think it was getting enough gas. A good carb fixed the issue.

 

[Hulpio]

A bit of stealing original question but I have MS180 acting a kind of same way.
It has fresh engine, oem crank seals, oem intake "manifold". It runs fine until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Then it starts acting like running lean. It does not react if I spray Brakleen to crank seals or intake rubber/cylinder area. If crank seal has a leak Brakleen kills engine immy. That is tested. Could it be air leak from carb/rubber connection? A bit hard to find correct terms but hopefully readers can get the point. Spraying Brakleen to that suspected connection is difficult because air intake is so close. Maybe I should try to find correct size hose for taking intake 1ft away...

 

[BadgerClaw]

A bit of stealing original question but I have MS180 acting a kind of same way.
It has fresh engine, oem crank seals, oem intake "manifold". It runs fine until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Then it starts acting like running lean. It does not react if I spray Brakleen to crank seals or intake rubber/cylinder area. If crank seal has a leak Brakleen kills engine immy. That is tested. Could it be air leak from carb/rubber connection? A bit hard to find correct terms but hopefully readers can get the point. Spraying Brakleen to that suspected connection is difficult because air intake is so close. Maybe I should try to find correct size hose for taking intake 1ft away...

Could be the ignition coil

 

[HarleyT]

A bit of stealing original question but I have MS180 acting a kind of same way.
It has fresh engine, oem crank seals, oem intake "manifold". It runs fine until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Then it starts acting like running lean. It does not react if I spray Brakleen to crank seals or intake rubber/cylinder area. If crank seal has a leak Brakleen kills engine immy. That is tested. Could it be air leak from carb/rubber connection? A bit hard to find correct terms but hopefully readers can get the point. Spraying Brakleen to that suspected connection is difficult because air intake is so close. Maybe I should try to find correct size hose for taking intake 1ft away...

Look closely at the fuel line. Also, keep away from using brake cleaner, some brands are hard on plastics.

 

[Hulpio]

Fuel line is not new but looks ok. I will put a new one in just to be safe.
What comes to Brakleen and kind I find lighter gas with long straw many ways better but I did not have any. This saw will be sold and I do not want to sell rubbish so new parts in and price a bit up.