Throwing chains

[dtnodya]

User expectations will deside how long a bar it "pulls" - 15-16" should be much better, unless the longer one is just for reach (hate that expression, really, when related to bar lenght)...........:bang: :bang:

Man, I agree with you about not using longer bars on 'under'-powered saws. Not that it can't be done but it just makes more sense to me, to run a shorter bar/chain to get optimal cut for the power ...

 

[Poley4]

If the sprocket isn't the problem, you definitely need to get a new bar to try. How long since you bought the saw? If it hasn't been long, I'd take it back to the dealer where you bought it and explain the problem, from what I've heard it had that problem since it was brand new, so they should at the very least give you a deal on a new bar.
Actually, the 488 comes "standard" with an 18" bar, but it can and does pull a 20" very nicely.

I bought the saw new from an individual on e-bay. I paid $299 + shipping for it back in January of this year, so at that price , I feel like I can pitch that bar and buy another one and still not be hurt. I also bought a new 16" Shindaiwa bar for it off ebay for $11 to try, I just need a get a couple .325 x .050 chains with 66 drive links. I need to check with my local Stihl dealer to see if he has any 23RS chains in that size.

 

[Edge & Engine]

User expectations will deside how long a bar it "pulls" - 15-16" should be much better, unless the longer one is just for reach (hate that expression, really, when related to bar lenght)...........:bang: :bang:

Yeah, you could probably make it run a great big long bar, it would be good for cutting cardboard

 

[Brushwacker]

The biggest culprit for throwing chains for me has been the sprocket on the tip of the bar being worn.Seems at some point near the end of its life for me it will easily throw the chain when cutting smaller limbs and brush. Chains that get stretched will wear out new sprockets and vice versa. So newer chains work better on newer sprockets and I try using up stretched chains on sprockets that have some wear . When the sprocket tip gets wore I don't have much use for the bar unless i find a sprocket for it at a reasnable price and the bar rails are in good shape.

 

[Poley4]

new bar

Well I put the new 16" bar on the 488 this afternoon after I had discovered that the 20NK chains that I have for my Jonsered will work on the Shindaiwa bar also, even though that bar isn't mark with the NK symbol like the 2 bars I have for the Jonsered. After putting the bar and chain on, I fired up the saw and let it run at a fast idle for a few minutes until the chain was well oiled and had some slack in it. I then shut it down and re-tensioned the chain. I did so by turning the adjustment screw until the chain contacted the bottom rail and then I gave it an additional 1/4 turn. Fired it up again and ran it for a couple more minutes until the chain seemed to turn freely on the bar without any slack in the chain. I then walked over to my red oak test log and made a couple cuts. Man, I just thought I liked the way the 20NK chain performed on my little Jonny, that chains really performs well with the extra horsepower the Shindaiwa puts out. I guess that means I will making another order to Bailey's before long. Although I didn't run it that long today, I didn't see any chain throwing issues yet.:yoyo:

 

[dtnodya]

GOOD! Glad to hear that no chains got thrown.

 

[SawTroll]

Nice to hear that it worked well.....

As far as I know, .325 NK chain work quite well on standard .050 bars, as long as the chain isn't filed too far back.
However, you may get into binding problems at a later state.......