Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't see a problem with that. I don't have one of those pawls(?), anchor plate, but I assume they have smooth edges. What's metal to metal the biner to the plate? Do you mean if the plate had damage done to it?
Tie off knots for srt
- Thread starter Adkpk
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I don't see a problem with that. I don't have one of those pawls(?), anchor plate, but I assume they have smooth edges. What's metal to metal the biner to the plate? Do you mean if the plate had damage done to it?
Timber Hitch, first crossing across Standing going over, with a Round Turn rather than Simple Turn around the Standing (at first crossing)for strength(and security too, by reducing tension under nipping at first tucking-but keeping nip tension same), then come over the wrap before serving under for first tuck(more security by reducing frictions before first tuck and placing first tuck away from Standing-where forces can pull trap of turns off of nipping of that tuck) , then at some more tucks leading to a finish (or at least pass by with a tuck) 5o'clock around from a 12o'clock Standing. all tucks at firm, convex locations.
Without the round Turn, it is easier to turn into a Muenter for lowering though. All these could have trouble on taper reducing, so best at imperfection, straight or swell (taper increasing) else, small tucked in small humboldts(to resist upward pulls) on removals. This all has 2xPotential on TIP. This can be rduced by more open angle, and/or more frictions at/before TIP.
Without the round Turn, it is easier to turn into a Muenter for lowering though. All these could have trouble on taper reducing, so best at imperfection, straight or swell (taper increasing) else, small tucked in small humboldts(to resist upward pulls) on removals. This all has 2xPotential on TIP. This can be rduced by more open angle, and/or more frictions at/before TIP.
treemandan
Tree Freak
You mean this one?
That is the one. I don't use the truck to pull myself up unless I have pulleys installed to save the friction. It would be just plain stupid not to use pulleys and pull through a bare crotch.
Yes, I have be "flamed" for the ball hitch but by those from a lesser Dan. Sure, if some half-wit was messing around like this he would die, we all know that.
A undressed clove
A hearty tug
The disclaimer
Not recomended.
i think it should lace to another lower and or backward position to lock more positively. Just because it locks on a steady pull in 1 direction, doesn't promise it would lock during intermittent, impacting pulls of possibly chaning direction.
treemandan
Tree Freak
Just trying to look out for the kids............
.....your kid!
Luv ya bub
How would a timber hitch turn into a Muenter?
Otherwise: TreeSpyder, we love your insight and knowledge. I love your website. Could you occasionally make your posts easier to read? You have tendency to introduce disparate thoughts with little elaboration in a fast paced, continuous stream that the rest of us have trouble following.
good to know NE safety blue works well for SRT... that's one less piece of gear to buy... setting up for SRT.
Pinch off at collar around Standing, and undo the 'loose splice' of the Timber, that is behind the 'Muenter' around the tree. Even easier if you make kinda a slipped Timber, and use a bight for the 'loose splice', then dog the Bitter End thru the Bight's mid point etc.
This 'Muenter' effect / stage of the Timber can also be found in a Slipped Cow, the slip, then locked off... Also in reverse (Muenter to Timber, instead of Timber to Muenter etc.), can be used for tightening / some lifting, by pulling Standing into tree as tight as possible, then, 'Muenter over/around' Standing; then use this Muenter to bend/ leverage the Standing, and pull the purchase thru to Bitter side. Then, slide arraingemeant back around away from you (around tree), and pull again to bend Standing. As the Standing tightens, thereby resisting bending more, therefore higher leveraged return each time you do this process. Then, finish with Timber, Cow, another Turn + 2 Halfs etc.
Hope that isn't tooo thick, but anyway; i see this adjust-able Muenter configuration at base of Cow, Timber (whose finishes are the 'soft lock', then 2 Half Hitches as a 'hard lock' to that).
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
keeper
Simple and did the job. Easy to untie. White pine, ruff bark, 60' ft up twice because I put the rope through the friction saver rings backwards. I'll get some more pics up when get to a higher speed connection. Brand new Blaze rope. I was happy to get to do it twice. Belt is hanging in front of me in the living getting an accessory tune-up.
Alpine butterfly and biner
Simple and did the job. Easy to untie. White pine, ruff bark, 60' ft up twice because I put the rope through the friction saver rings backwards. I'll get some more pics up when get to a higher speed connection. Brand new Blaze rope. I was happy to get to do it twice. Belt is hanging in front of me in the living getting an accessory tune-up.
Alpine butterfly and biner
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks well established.Simple and did the job...
What happens to this nice rig when you get to the top and allow the rope to go slack? The biner and rope will fall down. When you retension the rope as you descend, will the anchor spontaneously assume the nice form it has in your picture? Could the vertical rope even end up leaning against the biner gate? I think you need an anchor that is guaranteed to keep its optimum configuration no matter what you do up in the tree.
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
Point taken and I will work on it but after all the pic was taken after the climb.
A half hitch around the tree above that carabiner would take care of the slack problem. Much like Moss's first picture, but perhaps not quite so many trips around the tree.
I'm afraid you still lost me. Probably because I thought a Muenter was a friction hitch used to tie onto a carabiner. I don't know what it would be with a "rope only" configuration.
moss
ArboristSite Guru
For that type of anchor cross the rope on the other side of the trunk, wrap twice before capturing the line going up and use a rated delta screwlink (rapide mallion). When you slack the system and reload it no harm done, the anchor remains secure. The screwlink removes any issues related to loading the gate on a carabiner, the delta is rated 10,000 lbs loaded in any direction. Crossing the rope on the back of the trunk prevents any movement of the anchor upward even if you slack it during the climb.
-moss
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moss
ArboristSite Guru
pdqdl is correct, two half hitches above the the setup that Adkpk showed allows the use of a biner to lock it off, the half hitches don't allow any slack to reach the biner if the system is unloaded and reloaded during the climb, but are impractical on a trunk with that diameter, eats too much rope.
-moss
-moss
i'm jest sayin make same formation around tree(rather than krab) as the basis for these other lacings. Then also, use the mechainics to tighten or lower, let alone finish with Timber or Clove as first stage / soft lock, before perhaps adding 2 Halfs(remember the ol'addage "Safe as 2 Half Hitches") for 'hard lock'.
The Muenter arraingemeant for tightening, gives a 2:1 potential to then input into leveraging the Standing (tensioned) Part, to 'sweat' or 'swig' out more purchase from the line; leaving less line so load lifts and/or rope tightens(rope tightens if less line left to stretch over same distance etc.).
i'll try to put something together for this.
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
All things are possible as we know. But maybe, not sure myself, I see it this way. If I got stuck and needed to pull that rope up, what would be my chances? The weight if the rope kept it the way it was when I unloaded it.
Correction! This pic was after the climb. Please note the ddrt line is 120' I needed to hop a little to unload myself from it. No comments as to a stopper knot! I was aware of the end of the rope and the eye splice wouldn't have let me fall.
Pics of the climb.http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=1481505#post1481505
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