tieing in when blocking down

[lego1970]

I hear ya, probably not a great suggestion.

 

[SINGLE-JACK]

Have you used tree spikes before? The Buckingham one's that I used to use were way too long and unstable for my taste.

Pole spikes are OK for takedowns on thin healthy spars. But, if you climbing thick spongy bark and sapwood, long tree spikes are really necessary. I agree, though, they really do take some serious 'gettin'-use-to'.

If you've got wads of money you can keep your array of varing length gaffs in a crushed velvet lined mahogany case to match every job - ask anyone.

... JUST KIDDING

 

[Adkpk]

If your in no hurry then I'd just wait for the new gaffs, but if you have to get it down pronto, I'm sure you could rig a strap on there or use a roll of duct tape to fasten the gaff on your boot just to finish the job.

Ya there's plenty of time. Of course their anxious to see it go but they'll wait for the right tool for the job. It's lining the woods in the back yard. It's a perfect spar to do a first blocking down job on. I'll try to get a pic.

 

[SINGLE-JACK]

A big dog collar (maybe two buckled together) will work in a pinch - you can buy them everywhere, even the grocery store - they're tough as hell ...

If you are pressed to finish the job, I'd seriously consider the "big dog collar" idea. I've put them on an old pair of pole spikes because I use them so rarely. However, I replaced the old leather straps on my tree gaffs with new Buckingham ring straps because I use them more often.

Note: just make sure the buckles are not those cheap 'pot-metal' (zinc) type. Get the heavy brass or steel buckles. Good big dog collars take a bigger load than your spikes are likely to give them. Just one possible solution - be safe.

 

[clearance]

Have you used tree spikes before? The Buckingham one's that I used to use were way too long and unstable for my taste.

I use the longest straight Buckinghams, for years, climbed thousands of trees with them. You mustn't have them done up right, or maybe your boots are inadequate. I

 

[Bermie]

pretty much what most people have said...

Lanyard on top...I use a steel core for chunking a spar...slightly more resistance that a rope lanyard. I nicked my rope one once...that was enough, steel core for ever more on a spar!

For the choke on my lifeline, make sure both ends reach the ground, (obviously depends on the size of the tree!) a butterfly mid line knot, clip a biner in it then put the other side of the line in the biner, friction hitch and fig 8 on that side...its ok for the final descent or as an emergency bailout but a bit of a pain to re rig if you have to go down several times...

But works like a charm to pull the whole lot down from the ground.

 

[Adkpk]

a butterfly mid line knot, clip a biner in it then put the other side of the line in the biner, friction hitch and fig 8 on that side...its ok for the final descent or as an emergency bailout but a bit of a pain to re rig if you have to go down several times...

But works like a charm to pull the whole lot down from the ground.

Yes I had this set up in mind thanks for the reassurance.

I am also working on splicing some three strand with some rings. Wrapping that and using like a friction saver. Just I got the rings and they are steel and real heavy I think I want to exchange for alum.

Here's the tree minus all above the line. (Not below for treeco )

 

[outofmytree]

Some great information in this thread. Does anyone have any photo's of their blocking down setup?

This how I tie in. Obviously the flipline is on when the lifeline is tied I just took the photo's in this order to make it clear.

The friction hitch I use is very short so there is very little slack in the line once it is drawn up close.

 

[1I'dJak]

I used to use just one flipline like clearance mentions but have gravitated to the flipline plus runningboline/vt hitch...I like the added security especially since a good deal of my trees are red alder which are pretty smooth, often lean out pretty good and often I can hear the stem cracking as I'm blocking down the bigger chunks

 

[treesandsurf]

I usually tie a running bowline below the block and then lanyard above. I recently used a grigri on the single line and works pretty smooth.

jp

 

[SINGLE-JACK]

...

I am also working on splicing some three strand with some rings. Wrapping that and using like a friction saver. Just I got the rings and they are steel and real heavy I think I want to exchange for alum.

...

Bob -

When you're done, would you post some pix of your spliced 3 strand w/rings, please? Been thinking of doing the same and would like to pick up some tips. I've spliced some laid rope without rings for other rigging chores.

thanks, Jack

 

[clearance]

I used to use just one flipline like clearance mentions but have gravitated to the flipline plus runningboline/vt hitch...I like the added security especially since a good deal of my trees are red alder which are pretty smooth, often lean out pretty good and often I can hear the stem cracking as I'm blocking down the bigger chunks

I hear ya, them alders can be slippery, specially when it wet. I wrap my steecore around it twice, choke it kind of deal.

 

[dave066]

Ya there's plenty of time. Of course their anxious to see it go but they'll wait for the right tool for the job. It's lining the woods in the back yard. It's a perfect spar to do a first blocking down job on. I'll try to get a pic.

farmers co-op or tractor supply sells leather straps and hammered revets to set them, $15.00 to $25.00 and with last a long time.

 

[Bermie]

Yes I had this set up in mind thanks for the reassurance.

I use this method for coconuts, beats spiking back down a wobbly stem...Otis elevator all the way down, quick yank and the whole lot comes down just fine!
I do not like descending on spikes...I'd much rather rappell, ya, fine, LAZY..I don't care!

 

[SINGLE-JACK]

How does one tie in when blocking down a spar? I assume you just give your life line a wrap around the spar and set your lanyard above it?

Here's a really good read (link below) about the whole subject with many good pix for "tie in when blocking down". It covers most of what has been offered in this thread plus a lot more.

One very interesting thing, I didn't find in this tread, is setting the life line choker around the 'far-side' of the tree when doing the back-cut. This is a great idea and gives more room for the tresse when working close to the spar. Photograph 33, page 43 shows a good view of the rig set-up for the back-cut.


Safe working methods with top-handled chainsaws
- Prepared by Treevolution for the Health and Safety Executive (UK)

http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/crr_pdf/2001/crr01402.pdf

 

[davej]

Article

See the tie-in article over on treebuzz...

www (dot) treebuzz (dot) com/pdf/tie-in.pdf

 

[Adkpk]

Bob -

When you're done, would you post some pix of your spliced 3 strand w/rings, please? Been thinking of doing the same and would like to pick up some tips. I've spliced some laid rope without rings for other rigging chores.

thanks, Jack

I'm going to get another ring and some tenex which I spliced before and use it for an adjusting prusik. Or maybe spend the $42 for the pre-spliced prusik and ring.

 

[Bermie]

Here's a really good read (link below) about the whole subject with many good pix for "tie in when blocking down". It covers most of what has been offered in this thread plus a lot more.

One very interesting thing, I didn't find in this tread, is setting the life line choker around the 'far-side' of the tree when doing the back-cut. This is a great idea and gives more room for the tresse when working close to the spar. Photograph 33, page 43 shows a good view of the rig set-up for the back-cut.


Safe working methods with top-handled chainsaws
- Prepared by Treevolution for the Health and Safety Executive (UK)

http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/crr_pdf/2001/crr01402.pdf

Ha, these guys are the best...I've trained with them, had them out to Bda too, and they came after our bad hurricane to train the Government guys in major storm cleanup, solid as a rock for sure!

 

[Adkpk]

Safe working methods with top-handled chainsaws
- Prepared by Treevolution for the Health and Safety Executive (UK)

http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/crr_pdf/2001/crr01402.pdf

Saved that one, will try to read it this weekend. Thanks Jack.

 

[canopyboy]

Reading through that publication resulted in one of those slap yourself upside the head moments. I've used my slings for just about everything. Even attached them as foot loops to an ascender. But somehow I never thought to choke them to the tree as a foot loop when you need that extra little bit for positioning.

D'oh.