Tilted triangle hinge

[treeclimber165]

One of the times I use a step on my back cut is when topping out a removal. When the top starts to go over, the weight can push the trunk backwards, spring loading it. Without a step, the butt of the top could come back into the climber (ME!) with the force of all that weight. By having a step, it provides a springboard for the top to jump away from the trunk when it separates. Can provide for a bit of a ride, depending on the size of your notch, but much preferable to having the trunk spring forward under your cut leaving the butt of the top to fall on the climber (ME!).

 

[rbtree]

True Brian, I usually cut up a bit too. But a 70-90 degree open face will really minimize trunk pull, and the resultant push back. I only get worried about that with huge tops or spindly trunks.

When free dropping normal stuff, I like a ~45 degree face, as it allows the top to have a better chance of landing flat. With wood or large branch lowering, I'm really using the open face more and more, as it so smooth. With wood lowering, it keeps the log in close too, as it holds the hinge so long. And as it makes for a smoother and a bit slower movement, it gives a slightly longer time when slack can be quickly ratcheted out (w /Hobbs or GRCS)

 

[Oxman]

True Brian, I usually cut up a bit too. But a 70-90 degree open face will really minimize trunk pull, and the resultant push back. I only get worried about that with huge tops or spindly trunks.

When free dropping normal stuff, I like a ~45 degree face, as it allows the top to have a better chance of landing flat. With wood or large branch lowering, I'm really using the open face more and more, as it so smooth. With wood lowering, it keeps the log in close too, as it holds the hinge so long. And as it makes for a smoother and a bit slower movement, it gives a slightly longer time when slack can be quickly ratcheted out (w /Hobbs or GRCS)

Just wondering what has changed since the thread was began in 2002?