Tipping Bradfords?

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Menchhofer

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Can someone explain to me some of the references I have read here and there regarding tipping the bradfords, especially when there is frequently nothing to tip back too? Would this not create unwanted new growth making the tree thicker than ever?

Guy, perhaps you can explain what you do to the pear trees to lessen the windthrow effect. How about it?
 
Here's a pic showing the best way to go about tipping back/shaping a Bradford Pear....

love
nick
 
But it's the only way to do it with those derned trees!

love
nick


ps- they're really not that bad.
 
i suppose i should be glad i don't know what a bradford pear is...? for what attributes are they planted?
 
There's quite a few of them in Seattle, gord.....


poor branch structure, though some newer species are better, I hear...

Since we get little snow and ice, they do pretty well here. And I haven't noticed damage form our rare ice storm....but then I haven't been looking for them.
 
They ARE pretty trees.....nice white flowers with tiny little pears about 1/4" in size. They have very tight crotches, a lot of included bark...

It seems to be strong wood. I tie in to very small stuff when I have to climb a pear. Today I climbed 2 actually. In one, I used the ropeguide around two branches each about an inch in diameter (I wrapped the ropeguide around both, sharing my weight between the two).

Heavy trunk wood.

love
nick
 
Correct, Bradfords have the plague of poor branch structure, that is , unless properly pruned from the start. That never happens, and here in the mid west they're everywhere,,people just don't get it, they continue planting these inferior trees/ They are beautiful in the spring, when all of the buds come out,,,Brilliant white mass of flowers...
 
Bradford can be nice looking trees, just a maintainence hog. Lots of them planted around here in shopping malls and subdivision. Cheap,fast growing, ball of white flowers in the early spring, pretty disease resistant and lots of branches for privacy. Just need almost annual pruning. Train for structure from the time it is planted and you can get some long term life out of it. I have two in front of my house that I planted 8 years ago and I annually clip back the tops with pruner and take out the suckers/watersprouts. Necessary precaution because of all the ice around here. I have seen some around here last 20+ years with maintainence program. Does not sound like a lot for an oak but 20+ years is long for Bradford. Like others said if they are planted they will offer lots of job security.
 
Originally posted by Menchhofer
regarding tipping the bradfords, especially when there is frequently nothing to tip back too? Would this not create unwanted new growth making the tree thicker than ever?
And why is the new growth unwanted? If reduction cuts force lateral sprouting that grows into tangled branches, all the better--trees are much less likely to split apart if their branches intertwine. Diseases like fireblight will be more likely perhaps, but that is a small price to pay for structural stability.

Internodal cuts can create a more desired effect (resprouting) than cuts to nodes, on magnolias and hollies, anyway. I see Bradfords here get lollipopped; that's one valid way to handle the species. It's high-mtc. and unnatural looking but hey we are dealing with trees that WILL split apart if nothing is done.

Murph posted pics on the REduction Pruning thread that showed good thinning. http://www.arboristsite.com/attach/7398.jpg
How's it look now murph, fill in as expected?

I've seen Bradfords with excellent structure due to nursery training. Dissing the species or cultivar is Kneejerk and easy, but not always right.

Re terms, bradfords don't typically windthrow, they split.
Let's use ANSI terms for pruning--clean, raise, reduce and thin. Reduction considers species, while all "tipping" does not. Lollipopping a Bradford is borderline OK in my book, but due to different response and mature size it'd be a crime on most oaks, maples etc. That's IMO based on NC trees.;)
 

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