To Rebuild or Buy New...that is the question!

[Nik_Danger]

Ok another noob question, I am currently in the market for a 660. I also own an 044 that has maybe 850 hrs on it from me, no telling how many it racked up with previous owner. It still runs great but I can tell he's gettin old. Should I rebuild the saw or buy a new one, or more directly can you rebuild a saw to like new standards? Call me weird but I really like MY 044 and all the scratches and what not that tell different stories. Can a rebuild be as fresh as a new saw?

 

[computeruser]

Yes, it can and probably should be rebuilt.

 

[nilzlofgren]

I have two new style 066 cases. One with crank, bearings, seals, and oil pump, if you want to go that route.

 

[beelsr]

I have two new style 066 cases. One with crank, bearings, seals, and oil pump, if you want to go that route.

PM me a price. I'm thinking of building one up. I have a ton of spare parts....

 

[Nik_Danger]

Yes, it can and probably should be rebuilt.

will it be a strong as a new one? Lakeside53 says a new pro stihl is good for +-2000 hrs. Is a rebuilt saw good for another 2000?....+- a few. I will be using the saws as intended but I tend to baby my equip...

 

[romeo]

Rebuild it of course. They are a great saw and had a long run. You can make it run as well as it ever did. You could make it run a little better if you get into some mods. You can get big bore kits for dirt cheap from Bailey's (a site sponsor).
http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/scan/arg=%22/fi=products/st=db/tf=sortorder%2cdescription/co=yes/sf=category/se=10161/op=eq/ml=10.html?id=4EPeGiCY

 

[bcorradi]

If the saw has good bearings, and the piston and cylinder are good, you may be able to get by with just reringing it. If you want to do a major rebuild by replacing all the crucial wear items (piston, cylinder, bearings, seals, etc) with OEM parts, you will have a considerable $ and time investment. There are aftermarket p&c kits available for your saw which will save you a few $, but I cannot personally vouch for the quality of them.

In order to give you better direction, more information is needed about your particular saw. Also, how much money/time you want to invest, your mechanical ability etc.

 

[Lakeside53]

Wait.. you say it runs great... why rebuild it???


If it's loosing compression, just re-ring or better still, new OEM piston and rings... and switch to a full synthetic mix oil...

 

[OilHead]

If it passes the drop test send the muffler to Walkers for the dual port job. Once you get it back add some more fuel to the fire & it should be good as new.

 

[andrethegiant70]

IMHO, it is reasonable to assume that you should be able to go through a couple pistons before the bottom end gives out. If this is the original piston I'd pop another in (be sure the bore is cleaned up) and keep cutting. Sounds like a ground-up rebuild is premature.

 

[manual]

If it passes the drop test send the muffler to Walkers for the dual port job. Once you get it back add some more fuel to the fire & it should be good as new.

No send the muffler to me, And I will dual port it.

 

[Nik_Danger]

sorry I didn't specify, this is a future rebuild. I just wanted to know your opinions. The saw runs great, but if I plan to buy new I need to start saving now. Truth be told it probably has well over a thousand hours on it and it is stock. I am very mechanically inclined so that is no problem. I just wanted to hear from people who really know per experience that rebuilds are just as high fidelity as new saws... thanks so much!

 

[OilHead]

Your best bet is to just get the dual port for the saw for now & turn up the fuel & run it with sharp chain. Real chain grinders are going off at 80.00-100 or a box of files.. Save every penny after that & get a bigger saw . You may need that 44 to cut you out of a jam someday if your in a pinch. Hi.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

Your best bet is to just get the dual port for the saw for now & turn up the fuel & run it with sharp chain. Real chain grinders are going off at 80.00-100 or a box of files.. Save every penny after that & get a bigger saw . You may need that 44 to cut you out of a jam someday if your in a pinch. Hi.

Actually, REAL chaingrinders are going off at $800-$2300.

 

[Lakeside53]

+1

 

[manual]

Actually, REAL chaingrinders are going off at $800-$2300.

It would be nice to get a square chisle grinder. Do you have one of those bad boys?

 

[OilHead]

The stihl grinder sure looks good for $800 & is suppost to be better than the Oregon. The local Stihl dealer here in the bay area has raised his price for sharping to .50 per tooth. So for the price of having him do 4 sets of chains you can pick up the Northern grinder. I know its not the best out there & the motor will burn out long before some of the better ones but all I need here is maybe 20 sharpings a year to keep the seasoned firewood pile in shape. It doesnt do 404 but thats ok with me as even if I was to pick up a 084 would convert it to 3/8 063 anyway. So cant justify getting an expensive grinder and with the saving can continue to obtain yet another saw to support the addiction you have started here. Its all you fault you know.