Nice. Did you fold that sheet metal with a brake, pliers, ?
Philbert
Philbert
Tool Forum
- Thread starter WesternSaw
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Timberjack zack
ArboristSite Operative
Lol a pair of pliers and an aluminum block and a hammer. I made my own brake with that old poulan chainsaw bar I just screwed it to the top of my bench and it worked good.
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Timberjack zack
ArboristSite Operative
Anyone have any good ideas for a fallers belt? If you want pm me some pictures. Trying to get my own setup going. So far just the wedge holder and an old belt.
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sweepleader
Chainsaws and Fire Trucks, perfect.
Klein tools sells a nice belt for hanging pouches on, not too expensive.
Search "Klein tools belt".
Search "Klein tools belt".
Bought a new to me drill press.
Found one for a reasonable price. Now that box store carry little giant those are made in China. I think the ladders sold at home shows and some others models are still made in the USA. This one is model 10102 M17. It's in great shape. I have a 22' Chinese Werner multi position ladder I bought a a box store a few years ago. I just listed it on cl.
WesternSaw
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey Joe good to see you and the others are still keeping this thread alive ! One day when I have time I will have to post up some pictures of some real neat finds .
WesternSaw
WesternSaw
If someone already posted it, sorry. I was in Lowes a couple weeks ago and they now carry Craftsman tools. I also have a boys axe head with the original 1927 Craftsman logo on it. I don't know how long they used it, I'm pretty sure it's not a first year, but it may be?
$2 at a garage sale 1/2" Milwaukee Hole Shooter (cracked plastic) for another $5. 
Philbert
Philbert
sweepleader
Chainsaws and Fire Trucks, perfect.
If you can find a store that carries them, you could turn them all in for new.
Probably start hoarding some of the 'good' ones now, assuming that the replacements will not be of the same quality. JMO
Philbert
I’m hoarding all the old USA craftsman I can find. If I wanted Chinese tools I’d shop at Home Depot and harbor freight
Speaking of vintage USA CRAFTSMAN I picked up nice assortment today from an older guy who’s moving. All are -V- series some real nice stuff here’s a quick run downSet of flare nut wrenches look new (didn’t own)
Mag screwdriver again doesn’t look used
2 torque wrenches one is an apco mossberg
3/8” speed wrench, 1/2” ratchet, assorted sockets 1/4”-1/2” drive
Nifty screwdriver set
Screw holding tip screwdriver
The tote tray
Some I’ll sell, replace and just add.
Attachments
I have been busy lately making some tools/tooling to use with my Grizzly bench top lathe. First up are a couple of boring bar holders for 3/8" and 3/4" boring bars. The 3/8" bars came with a tail stock boring head attachment (works nicely) plus I added one that will hold a carbide cutting tool. The 3/4" bars came with a boring head attachment for my Grizzly mill drill; I haven't tried using the boring head on the mill drill but the boring tool from the set worked nicely today making some rings for the 5C collet wrenches I'll show further down. I think you can tell which holes I broke taps in while cutting the threads for the locking screws.
Mark
Mark
I went ahead and bored out that heavy tube to make these spanner type wrenches to use on the locking collars for my recently acquired 5C collets & holders.
I used the 5C collets to hold the handles while I milled the flats so I could use a wrench to tighten or loosen the handles. The collet holder can be clamped in the mill vise to hold everything securely. I have a hex collet holder as well to allow you to put three or six flats on a shaft.
Mark
I used the 5C collets to hold the handles while I milled the flats so I could use a wrench to tighten or loosen the handles. The collet holder can be clamped in the mill vise to hold everything securely. I have a hex collet holder as well to allow you to put three or six flats on a shaft.
Mark
I also put together a tool post drill that will allow me to drill holes in objects secured in the lathe. I had this 5/16" chuck and an old 1/2" chuck in a box of drill stuff, both had 1/2-20 threaded bores. Digging through the scrap I have been bringing home from work I found some 5/8" shaft, and the body of the drill is another piece of heavy wall tube that I bored to accept the bearing inserts from the larger 10 Series McCulloch saws. By using these with needle bearings, the shaft can slide freely so you can drill holes as you wish. Since my lathe tool holder does not adjust in height and is not aligned with the lathe centers, I had to make the clamping fixture in two pieces to adjust to the correct height depending on which side of the tool post it mounted on; these pieces were made from 7/8" cold rolled (key stock).
For holes in any workpiece between centers, the drill must be exactly on the center line axis of the parts in the lathe to work so the alignment of the drill is critical. If you are drilling holes in the face of a workpiece the center alignment is not critical.
With a properly made spacer, the jaws on the chuck can be used to index the part to drill holes perfectly 120 degrees apart.
Here you can see the bearing inserts and seals, the BH108 bearings are in there.
Mark
For holes in any workpiece between centers, the drill must be exactly on the center line axis of the parts in the lathe to work so the alignment of the drill is critical. If you are drilling holes in the face of a workpiece the center alignment is not critical.
With a properly made spacer, the jaws on the chuck can be used to index the part to drill holes perfectly 120 degrees apart.
Here you can see the bearing inserts and seals, the BH108 bearings are in there.
Mark
Occasionally I would like to polish a shaft or a bore just a bit to create a good fit and since I don't have a tool post grinder I thought I'd make something to mount my Dremel in the tool post. Like the tool post drill, I needed a way to adjust the height to compensate when I move it around on the tool post so I made this one infinitely adjustable. For starters, most modern Dremel tools have a threaded nose piece.
Normally it is fit with a grip that doubles as a wrench for the collet.
This one also has a "router base", but more importantly the fitting inside the router base was easily adapted to a steel sleeve.
It looks like this.
I can reduce a .500" shaft by a tenth or two (0.0001-0.0002") in a matter of seconds.
I also put the 3/4" boring bar holder to work making an adapter for my Roto Zip tool in case I need something with a bit more oomph than the Dremel. I am using some leftover two stroke mix oil as lubricant so I can get my fix while working in the shop.
Mark
Normally it is fit with a grip that doubles as a wrench for the collet.
This one also has a "router base", but more importantly the fitting inside the router base was easily adapted to a steel sleeve.
It looks like this.
I can reduce a .500" shaft by a tenth or two (0.0001-0.0002") in a matter of seconds.
I also put the 3/4" boring bar holder to work making an adapter for my Roto Zip tool in case I need something with a bit more oomph than the Dremel. I am using some leftover two stroke mix oil as lubricant so I can get my fix while working in the shop.
Mark
OK, not as impressive as making lathe tools from scratch (I did make a candlestick on a lathe in 8th grade wood shop), but still a 'save'.
The magnet sheared off the bottom of one of my magnetic parts trays (which I absolutely L O V E when working with small parts). And since a Craftsman warranty involves finding a Sears store that is still open
I took a chance on fixing it.
Was always curious what type of adhesive they used to attach the magnet to the stainless steel bowl. Hitting the old stuff with a heat gun, it looked like some type of hot melt glue. So I heated it up and scraped off the old stuff, cleaned the surfaces with alcohol and a ScotchBrite pad, and reattached with my normal hot melt glue gun. Then I turned the bowl over, directed the heat gun towards the center of the bowl, and pressed down hard (with a leather glove) to make sure the glue adhered good.
Seems to be working: the magnet stays on, and screws stick to the center of the bowl. Might be a way to make custom ones, using old speaker magnets and cheap kitty food bowls?
Philbert
The magnet sheared off the bottom of one of my magnetic parts trays (which I absolutely L O V E when working with small parts). And since a Craftsman warranty involves finding a Sears store that is still open
I took a chance on fixing it.Was always curious what type of adhesive they used to attach the magnet to the stainless steel bowl. Hitting the old stuff with a heat gun, it looked like some type of hot melt glue. So I heated it up and scraped off the old stuff, cleaned the surfaces with alcohol and a ScotchBrite pad, and reattached with my normal hot melt glue gun. Then I turned the bowl over, directed the heat gun towards the center of the bowl, and pressed down hard (with a leather glove) to make sure the glue adhered good.
Seems to be working: the magnet stays on, and screws stick to the center of the bowl. Might be a way to make custom ones, using old speaker magnets and cheap kitty food bowls?
Philbert
sweepleader
Chainsaws and Fire Trucks, perfect.
I would have suggested using RTV. On large surfaces like that it seems to be impossible to remove. I suspect that the hot glue will hold just fine. I agree that the magnetic trays are indispensable.
RTV was my second choice. Not sure how thick you can go with any adhesive before you start to lose the magnetic attraction.
Philbert
Philbert
