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Did I ever post a pic of my MIG/Flux core machine?

Hobart Handler 140 running flux core wire. Does everything I'm gonna need it to do so far. Total was 600 some odd bucks at TSC, I bought a bunch of stuff, like a chipping hammer, welpers, a spool of .035 flux core wire, a bunch of extra contact tubes, gloves (blue Hobart, of course ;)) and the little 10 buck container of anti-spatter gel. <--- This stuff is worth it. It will last a long time and make contact tubes, and nozzles last much longer.

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I got to make cart for it yet... it's on an office coffee cart for the time being... :hmm3grin2orange:

The most important thing to remember about MIG is that the process barely makes enough heat to make a good weld, so in reality, it is much harder to make a good passing weld with it, as the margin of error is very slim.

Flux core is a bit better, as the welds are much smoother and better appearing, also the weld pool itself is hotter than it would be with the same size wire, as the amperage setting has to be a bit higher to melt the flux. So it's a bit more forgiving.

But a guy like you there daddy66, probably know all of this. I love Flux core, MIG is okay, but I still prefer the flux. Tougher welds too. You will have to fork out much more for a MIG or Flux core machine that can weld up some real thick steel on farm equipment. A 140 like mine ain't gonna cut it. I've done 1/4" steel, but that is the max of this in one pass without beveling or the like.

I wouldn't try this thing on something as thin as a muffler for a saw... hell, I used a measly 20 or so amps on a TIG and still ended up burning through a muffler for a Husky.

If you're talking car mufflers, yes, the MIG/Flux core is a better way to go rather than a Stick welder... my neighbor (yes, he knows how to weld) tried to fix a gate for us and burned right through it... thin stuff (about 18 gauge, IIRC) that a Thunderbolt 220 ain't made for, lol.

Correct me if I missed something, or something needs to be added.

P.S. don't forget Hobart... the circuit board in mine is the same part # as the one in the Miller Millermatic Autoset 140... Miller makes Hobart now, but the old Hobart machines are excellent too. Also, if you can find a good distributor and are willing to go Euro, buy an Esab machine... good machines from what I hear... just don't have the sales and customer reps like the big three here have, for example, the instructor at my welding class said he's seen the Miller and Lincoln reps a million times, never seen an Esab factory rep... that's why they haven't caught on here like over in Europe. Doesn't mean they're bad machines though. Parts should be fairly easy to find as well.
 
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Did I ever post a pic of my MIG/Flux core machine?

Hobart Handler 140 running flux core wire. Does everything I'm gonna need it to do so far. Total was 600 some odd bucks at TSC, I bought a bunch of stuff, like a chipping hammer, welpers, a spool of .035 flux core wire, a bunch of extra contact tubes, gloves (blue Hobart, of course ;)) and the little 10 buck container of anti-spatter gel. <--- This stuff is worth it. It will last a long time and make contact tubes, and nozzles last much longer.

attachment.php


I got to make cart for it yet... it's on an office coffee cart for the time being... :hmm3grin2orange:

The most important thing to remember about MIG is that the process barely makes enough heat to make a good weld, so in reality, it is much harder to make a good passing weld with it, as the margin of error is very slim.

Flux core is a bit better, as the welds are much smoother and better appearing, also the weld pool itself is hotter than it would be with the same size wire, as the amperage setting has to be a bit higher to melt the flux. So it's a bit more forgiving.

But a guy like you there daddy66, probably know all of this. I love Flux core, MIG is okay, but I still prefer the flux. Tougher welds too. You will have to fork out much more for a MIG or Flux core machine that can weld up some real thick steel on farm equipment. A 140 like mine ain't gonna cut it. I've done 1/4" steel, but that is the max of this in one pass without beveling or the like.

I wouldn't try this thing on something as thin as a muffler for a saw... hell, I used a measly 20 or so amps on a TIG and still ended up burning through a muffler for a Husky.

If you're talking car mufflers, yes, the MIG/Flux core is a better way to go rather than a Stick welder... my neighbor (yes, he knows how to weld) tried to fix a gate for us and burned right through it... thin stuff (about 18 gauge, IIRC) that a Thunderbolt 220 ain't made for, lol.

Correct me if I missed something, or something needs to be added.

Hobarts are nice! I like MIG's with gas as apposed to flux core though, less spatter, and nicer welds. I've done muffler mods on saws with a 220 mig at work, never had a problem, you just have to be careful. The TIG I got is super nice though, it goes down to 5amps. TIG welds are less brittle then MIG. This is my first TIG and I'm loving it!! More then any other welder that I've had or tried, but you gosta PAY! They aren't cheap!
 
Hobarts are nice! I like MIG's with gas as apposed to flux core though, less spatter, and nicer welds. I've done muffler mods on saws with a 220 mig at work, never had a problem, you just have to be careful. The TIG I got is super nice though, it goes down to 5amps. TIG welds are less brittle then MIG. This is my first TIG and I'm loving it!! More then any other welder that I've had or tried, but you gosta PAY! They aren't cheap!

Less spatter is a bonus on the MIG process. Flux core has tougher welds, and with good wire and the welder laying the bead having skill at doing it can make welds that IMHO, look much better than MIG. I like seeing the subtle ripples left behind from the puddle cooling. I consider that art, and it tells you whether you made a good or bad weld 85% of the time.

Hard to find that in MIG, as the puddle seems to solidify almost as a whole, or the individual sections of the cooled puddle are so close together that you need two magnifying glasses to see the ripples.

I hope to get a nice watercooled Miller Aerowave or Synchrowave some day...

What machine are you welding with?

I like blue... :D

Silly me, I didn't thank you for complimenting on my little Hobart... thanks. :cheers:
 
Less spatter is a bonus on the MIG process. Flux core has tougher welds, and with good wire and the welder laying the bead having skill at doing it can make welds that IMHO, look much better than MIG. I like seeing the subtle ripples left behind from the puddle cooling. I consider that art, and it tells you whether you made a good or bad weld 85% of the time.

Hard to find that in MIG, as the puddle seems to solidify almost as a whole, or the individual sections of the cooled puddle are so close together that you need two magnifying glasses to see the ripples.

I hope to get a nice watercooled Miller Aerowave or Synchrowave some day...

What machine are you welding with?

I like blue... :D

Silly me, I didn't thank you for complimenting on my little Hobart... thanks. :cheers:

Yes, I agree with what you said.

I'm welding with a Lincoln Precision TIG 185 Square Wave. Water cooled torch would be nice, but I'm not doing anything huge that I need it. I could always upgrade to water cooled torch if needed.

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Yes, I agree with what you said.

I'm welding with a Lincoln Precision TIG 185 Square Wave. Water cooled torch would be nice, but I'm not doing anything huge that I need it. I could always upgrade to water cooled torch if needed.

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Looks good. :) I have not had good luck with a Lincoln, but it may have had something to do with me being a :newbie: in TIG welding... :D

Water cooled is nice for aluminum, especially if you're working on one or more pieces at a time... at 100+ amps of energy running through an air cooled torch for several minutes at a time makes that bastard hotter than a potato fresh out of the oven... also a water cooled torch, IMHO, is lighter and definitely smaller, so tight areas are easier to get in to with a water cooled torch.

But, if you don't find yourself making that torch so hot that it has to cool down for 5+ minutes before you can hold it with a gloved hand, then go water cooled.

I got the damn torch so hot several times that it had to cool off for ten minutes or so... tapping the pedal to trigger post flow to cool it off still wasn't enough, even after doing that for several minutes. Mind you, I wasn't wearing those thin TIG gloves either... I was wearing the big old stick/MIG/oxyacetylene gloves... that's how hot that little torch got. :dizzy:

But that was at welding class, so that has an effect on how close to "Hot Potato" the torch gets. :)
 
I was given this old Hobart stick welder, I find MIG welders easier to use but for small jobs around home this old stick welder is ok

HobartwelderMedium.jpg

That would make my instructor smile. Old iron like that would have some cool stories to tell. It really does make me wish old stuff like these tools, cars, and such could talk. There's so much history in most, if not all old stuff. :)

Nice Hobart, sure, the technology ain't capable of making nice stick welds like some of the new inverter machines, but hey, at least you don't have to worry about a circuit board going out or the like. It's just a big ass transformer with taps off of it or a big sliding plate that is adjusted by a screw. :) Simple, and very durable.
 
Looks good. :) I have not had good luck with a Lincoln, but it may have had something to do with me being a :newbie: in TIG welding... :D

Water cooled is nice for aluminum, especially if you're working on one or more pieces at a time... at 100+ amps of energy running through an air cooled torch for several minutes at a time makes that bastard hotter than a potato fresh out of the oven... also a water cooled torch, IMHO, is lighter and definitely smaller, so tight areas are easier to get in to with a water cooled torch.

But, if you don't find yourself making that torch so hot that it has to cool down for 5+ minutes before you can hold it with a gloved hand, then go water cooled.

I got the damn torch so hot several times that it had to cool off for ten minutes or so... tapping the pedal to trigger post flow to cool it off still wasn't enough, even after doing that for several minutes. Mind you, I wasn't wearing those thin TIG gloves either... I was wearing the big old stick/MIG/oxyacetylene gloves... that's how hot that little torch got. :dizzy:

But that was at welding class, so that has an effect on how close to "Hot Potato" the torch gets. :)

Yep, I agree. If I was doing any kind of production work, I'd get a water cooled torch for sure!! I had it pretty darn hot today welding that thick steel, I had it set to 185, wasn't consistent at 185, but I like giving it the hot shoe to get it going then back off, then just enough to maintain the puddle.
 
Yep, I agree. If I was doing any kind of production work, I'd get a water cooled torch for sure!! I had it pretty darn hot today welding that thick steel, I had it set to 185, wasn't consistent at 185, but I like giving it the hot shoe to get it going then back off, then just enough to maintain the puddle.

I have a bad habit of flooring the pedal and going as fast as I can... :greenchainsaw:

Doesn't always work as well as I think it should... instructor says "Use the pedal." He says the thing he likes about TIG is that he can go as slow or fast as he wants to. It's all about the pedal and how many amps you're running through the metal.

You have a good idea of what you're doing there... I'd have some trouble making a nice bead like that around that steel rod and the base that you were welding it to.

I just finished with a sketch of what I want my welding cart to be, and holy heck, I'm going to need about 41.75 feet of 1" square tube, and 25.17 feet of 1/2" square tube... luckily, my dad works at a place where they make large orders of steel, and can probably get this in with a shipment for much less per foot than what I'd be paying if I bought it a TSC. It's about 11.50 per four foot piece at TSC for 1" square tube.

Included in my cart would be a big spool holder, for those 33-45 pound spools. I figure I could drill a hole in the back of the welder, and make a straight shot to the feed motor, and then I'd save a crap ton on wire, as it is cheaper to get more. I could probably find some partial and complete spools on CL for a bargain.

Also, a tank holder, that uses the rear handle as a restraint, rather than a chain. The handle will be held on by two bolts, and since I plan on a huge #4 tank for the 75/25 mix, it should not need to be removed often.

The casters will be partially recessed into the bottom of the cart, as they are huge casters. I like all four wheels to be casters as it makes it much easier to place the cart against a wall when I need to store it, also maneuvering in general is improved. There will also be a handle on the front of the cart. I will also figure out where to put a MIG gun holder, and cable holders. In the end, this will be one badass cart, probably will be painted blue or maybe black. Or dual tone with diamond tread aluminum shelves... oh boy, I've got the fab fever...
 
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That cart sounds pretty sweet! Mine kinda has one built into it, its got wheels and a tank holder, a small spot for tungsten, I used a piece of PVC pipe under the shelf over my work bench for a welding rod holder.
 
That cart sounds pretty sweet! Mine kinda has one built into it, its got wheels and a tank holder, a small spot for tungsten, I used a piece of PVC pipe under the shelf over my work bench for a welding rod holder.

Oh, I can't wait to play with the welder to make it... :blob2:

I'll get a pic up soon of my slightly rough sketch that I made. :)

There simply is nothing like making something yourself... it's just awesome to know that you, youself, and youse made it. :)
 
Oh, I can't wait to play with the welder to make it... :blob2:

I'll get a pic up soon of my slightly rough sketch that I made. :)

There simply is nothing like making something yourself... it's just awesome to know that you, youself, and youse made it. :)

Yup I totally agree! Oh, I forgot, my welder also has a drawer too!
 
Yup I totally agree! Oh, I forgot, my welder also has a drawer too!

I might put a drawer on my cart. It depends on whether I leave enough room for a drawer... plan to have many extra 10lb spools on one of the shelves. :)

If I ever happen to be going through wire like crazy, I'll start getting them big 33 pounders. :) So far, I've burnt up a 2lb spool of .030" wire, and about 1/3 of the 2lb spool of .035" wire. Bought a 10lb spool of .030" wire at FFH the other day.

Gotta love fusing two separate pieces of metal together, it's amazing how someone just came up with that idea one day.

Amps= melted metal. Great discovery. A lot of the stuff we deal with on a day to day basis is welded, one way or another.

I need a lathe too... and a pipe bender... and a big ass drill press/milling machine... and a two post car lift, and much more... :D

I want to start a fab business, but I'm afraid it wouldn't hold up for long with how messed up the economy is. Same said for starting an auto repair/modifying/dyno shop.

The repair shop would be possible, but as for the other two parts of it, it'd be difficult to get solid business.
 
I have the 220v Hobart 180 Handler, on gas.
I really like it. Sometimes I just play!!
I need practice on the thin stuff.:msp_w00t:
Lincoln weldpack 180? at the cabin,, in case!!!
I have a good auto Lincoln lid!!
 
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I might put a drawer on my cart. It depends on whether I leave enough room for a drawer... plan to have many extra 10lb spools on one of the shelves. :)

If I ever happen to be going through wire like crazy, I'll start getting them big 33 pounders. :) So far, I've burnt up a 2lb spool of .030" wire, and about 1/3 of the 2lb spool of .035" wire. Bought a 10lb spool of .030" wire at FFH the other day.

Gotta love fusing two separate pieces of metal together, it's amazing how someone just came up with that idea one day.

Amps= melted metal. Great discovery. A lot of the stuff we deal with on a day to day basis is welded, one way or another.

I need a lathe too... and a pipe bender... and a big ass drill press/milling machine... and a two post car lift, and much more... :D

I want to start a fab business, but I'm afraid it wouldn't hold up for long with how messed up the economy is. Same said for starting an auto repair/modifying/dyno shop.

The repair shop would be possible, but as for the other two parts of it, it'd be difficult to get solid business.

Man I think you must be my long lost twin brother. I love everything you talk about, I feel the same, I'd love to have a fab shop/auto shop. Welding is very cool, I love seeing nice beads. I cringe when I see some guys weld at work, no idea what they're doing. My next big purchase is going to be a milling machine!!!
 
Man I think you must be my long lost twin brother. I love everything you talk about, I feel the same, I'd love to have a fab shop/auto shop. Welding is very cool, I love seeing nice beads. I cringe when I see some guys weld at work, no idea what they're doing. My next big purchase is going to be a milling machine!!!

Lol, fab, even as ugly as some of what I've made, is something I do good with. Nothing I've made has failed yet, so that's a good sign. :)

Be damn sure to get pics of the milling machine when you get it!! :blob2::eek:uttahere2::blob2:

I wish my brother understood what I'm talking about half the time. :msp_sad: He's a math and chemist guy, doesn't really do well with mechanical idea stuff. I'm good at said mechanical stuff, but suck at math, lol. Can't do no calculus, but I can draw up a sketch of my welding cart that I wanna make and figure out how much tube I'll need. :)

You'd cringe at the spot welds I made to hold the muffler hanger on my car... It's rock solid, just uglier than hell. Unfortunately, the rest of the car is kinda ugly too. :msp_sad: Michigan winters and salt don't treat 80's steel very well. :cry:

Otherwise, most of the other welds I've made with this little Hobart turned out great.

Welding is its own form of art. Anyone that says it isn't is smoking dope or something.
 
I have the 220v Hobart 180 Handler, on gas.
I really like it. Sometimes I just play!!
I need practice on the thin stuff.:msp_w00t:
Lincoln weldpack 180? at the cabin,, in case!!!
I have a good auto Lincoln lid!!

The 220 Hobart was one I looked at, but it was out of my budget, and I simply don't need a machine that big yet.

My 140 only goes down to 25 amps... a bit high for real thin #### like a deflector for a muffler...
 
Lol, fab, even as ugly as some of what I've made, is something I do good with. Nothing I've made has failed yet, so that's a good sign. :)

Be damn sure to get pics of the milling machine when you get it!! :blob2::eek:uttahere2::blob2:

I wish my brother understood what I'm talking about half the time. :msp_sad: He's a math and chemist guy, doesn't really do well with mechanical idea stuff. I'm good at said mechanical stuff, but suck at math, lol. Can't do no calculus, but I can draw up a sketch of my welding cart that I wanna make and figure out how much tube I'll need. :)

You'd cringe at the spot welds I made to hold the muffler hanger on my car... It's rock solid, just uglier than hell. Unfortunately, the rest of the car is kinda ugly too. :msp_sad: Michigan winters and salt don't treat 80's steel very well. :cry:

Otherwise, most of the other welds I've made with this little Hobart turned out great.

Welding is its own form of art. Anyone that says it isn't is smoking dope or something.

The 220 Hobart was one I looked at, but it was out of my budget, and I simply don't need a machine that big yet.

My 140 only goes down to 25 amps... a bit high for real thin #### like a deflector for a muffler...

Yep! Welding take lots of practice to do really well, I got a ways to go. You can do muffler mods with your, just pulse weld it, hit the trigger for a couple seconds and let off, just keep doing that, doesn't give it enough time to heat up and blow through.
 
Tig,Mig,Stick,Gas

You guy's are crazy with this welding stuff,LOL.I can only imagine what kinda of fun that would be.I'm just having a blast,pardon the pun, with the new air compressor.Being able to clean crap out of nooks and crannies that was only possible by long tooth picks and what not.Tried the impact driver I had forgot all about from a garage sale the other day.Oppps, it did not want to move very well.Put in a few drops of tool oil it was a little better.So I farted around with the reverse forward settings and the 1-4 speed settings and it works like a charm.Next to try is the air hammer that is buried somewhere.I worked around guy's welding for three years in constructional steel.That was before auto darkening helmets and such.I'd love to learn.
Lawrence
 
You guy's are crazy with this welding stuff,LOL.I can only imagine what kinda of fun that would be.I'm just having a blast,pardon the pun, with the new air compressor.Being able to clean crap out of nooks and crannies that was only possible by long tooth picks and what not.Tried the impact driver I had forgot all about from a garage sale the other day.Oppps, it did not want to move very well.Put in a few drops of tool oil it was a little better.So I farted around with the reverse forward settings and the 1-4 speed settings and it works like a charm.Next to try is the air hammer that is buried somewhere.I worked around guy's welding for three years in constructional steel.That was before auto darkening helmets and such.I'd love to learn.
Lawrence

When we first got our well used sears air compressor from my neighbor, I wondered how the hell we made it without such a great tool. It was nice to be able to inflate those floating rafts for lounging in the pool and to get crud out of the tiniest tightest spots of cylinders, etc. Air up tires, the air ratchet was a nice addition to the compressor, as it does make bolt or nut removal and installation a hell of a lot faster.

When I get the big Husky going, I'll have a IR Titanium impact waiting to be used, and a IR air hammer, as well as a homemade soda blaster. :)
 

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