promac850
formerly promac610
Did I ever post a pic of my MIG/Flux core machine?
Hobart Handler 140 running flux core wire. Does everything I'm gonna need it to do so far. Total was 600 some odd bucks at TSC, I bought a bunch of stuff, like a chipping hammer, welpers, a spool of .035 flux core wire, a bunch of extra contact tubes, gloves (blue Hobart, of course ) and the little 10 buck container of anti-spatter gel. <--- This stuff is worth it. It will last a long time and make contact tubes, and nozzles last much longer.
I got to make cart for it yet... it's on an office coffee cart for the time being... :hmm3grin2orange:
The most important thing to remember about MIG is that the process barely makes enough heat to make a good weld, so in reality, it is much harder to make a good passing weld with it, as the margin of error is very slim.
Flux core is a bit better, as the welds are much smoother and better appearing, also the weld pool itself is hotter than it would be with the same size wire, as the amperage setting has to be a bit higher to melt the flux. So it's a bit more forgiving.
But a guy like you there daddy66, probably know all of this. I love Flux core, MIG is okay, but I still prefer the flux. Tougher welds too. You will have to fork out much more for a MIG or Flux core machine that can weld up some real thick steel on farm equipment. A 140 like mine ain't gonna cut it. I've done 1/4" steel, but that is the max of this in one pass without beveling or the like.
I wouldn't try this thing on something as thin as a muffler for a saw... hell, I used a measly 20 or so amps on a TIG and still ended up burning through a muffler for a Husky.
If you're talking car mufflers, yes, the MIG/Flux core is a better way to go rather than a Stick welder... my neighbor (yes, he knows how to weld) tried to fix a gate for us and burned right through it... thin stuff (about 18 gauge, IIRC) that a Thunderbolt 220 ain't made for, lol.
Correct me if I missed something, or something needs to be added.
P.S. don't forget Hobart... the circuit board in mine is the same part # as the one in the Miller Millermatic Autoset 140... Miller makes Hobart now, but the old Hobart machines are excellent too. Also, if you can find a good distributor and are willing to go Euro, buy an Esab machine... good machines from what I hear... just don't have the sales and customer reps like the big three here have, for example, the instructor at my welding class said he's seen the Miller and Lincoln reps a million times, never seen an Esab factory rep... that's why they haven't caught on here like over in Europe. Doesn't mean they're bad machines though. Parts should be fairly easy to find as well.
Hobart Handler 140 running flux core wire. Does everything I'm gonna need it to do so far. Total was 600 some odd bucks at TSC, I bought a bunch of stuff, like a chipping hammer, welpers, a spool of .035 flux core wire, a bunch of extra contact tubes, gloves (blue Hobart, of course ) and the little 10 buck container of anti-spatter gel. <--- This stuff is worth it. It will last a long time and make contact tubes, and nozzles last much longer.
I got to make cart for it yet... it's on an office coffee cart for the time being... :hmm3grin2orange:
The most important thing to remember about MIG is that the process barely makes enough heat to make a good weld, so in reality, it is much harder to make a good passing weld with it, as the margin of error is very slim.
Flux core is a bit better, as the welds are much smoother and better appearing, also the weld pool itself is hotter than it would be with the same size wire, as the amperage setting has to be a bit higher to melt the flux. So it's a bit more forgiving.
But a guy like you there daddy66, probably know all of this. I love Flux core, MIG is okay, but I still prefer the flux. Tougher welds too. You will have to fork out much more for a MIG or Flux core machine that can weld up some real thick steel on farm equipment. A 140 like mine ain't gonna cut it. I've done 1/4" steel, but that is the max of this in one pass without beveling or the like.
I wouldn't try this thing on something as thin as a muffler for a saw... hell, I used a measly 20 or so amps on a TIG and still ended up burning through a muffler for a Husky.
If you're talking car mufflers, yes, the MIG/Flux core is a better way to go rather than a Stick welder... my neighbor (yes, he knows how to weld) tried to fix a gate for us and burned right through it... thin stuff (about 18 gauge, IIRC) that a Thunderbolt 220 ain't made for, lol.
Correct me if I missed something, or something needs to be added.
P.S. don't forget Hobart... the circuit board in mine is the same part # as the one in the Miller Millermatic Autoset 140... Miller makes Hobart now, but the old Hobart machines are excellent too. Also, if you can find a good distributor and are willing to go Euro, buy an Esab machine... good machines from what I hear... just don't have the sales and customer reps like the big three here have, for example, the instructor at my welding class said he's seen the Miller and Lincoln reps a million times, never seen an Esab factory rep... that's why they haven't caught on here like over in Europe. Doesn't mean they're bad machines though. Parts should be fairly easy to find as well.
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