Topping A Tree

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

fmaglin

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 10, 2009
Messages
156
Reaction score
10
Location
Ohio
Hello all, I'm fairly new here, and have found this site to be a great source of information. I would like to know what type of cut you make when you top out a tree? Do you conventional notch or Humboldt it, or is there a different cut to use when you're topping?:dizzy: Thanks.
fmaglin
 
You can use either. The humboldt should allow the butt to slide off earlier if that's what you're going for. I sometimes make kerf cuts slightly under the corner of my notch in case the piece tries to twist as it comes off, and tear. You don't want any part of that while topping. You can do bore cuts too or whatever, just make sure it releases early (less spar shake) and breaks clean(no chance of pulling on your lifelines).
 
+1 for what nails said. Make sure that it breaks free by the time it hits horizontal. Anything after that and you may go for a ride or it could rip down. Just think about were the hinge closes in your head as you are cutting it. I usually do a tight face when I do mine so it goes were I want it, but breaks once it is in the right direction.
 
Hello all, I'm fairly new here, and have found this site to be a great source of information. I would like to know what type of cut you make when you top out a tree? Do you conventional notch or Humboldt it, or is there a different cut to use when you're topping?:dizzy: Thanks.
fmaglin

I'm assuming this is a takedown.
 
I'm assuming this is a takedown.

No, a couple of us guys were drinkin beer and were talkin about how things were done in the Pacific NW. Not many big conifers here in Ohio, mostly all hardwoods. Maple, Oak, Poplar and Beech is what we're into.
 
Last edited:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=48989&highlight=Topping+tail+tree

You'll have to click on the pictures. I didn't know how to do it very well then.
We don't do any really big trees here. But the hooktenders will pick out the larger Douglas-fir trees for a tail tree.

Hey thanks for the link slowp.:yourock: Them pictures are awesome. Man, I'd love to work on one of them crews. Actually, I'd like to be workin period. The Bailout must a run out before it got to the Buckeye state.:confused: Guess things are slow everywhere.
Frank
 
I will cut both sides of my holding wood so there is just a post of heart wood , and will cut that as the top starts to go . I don,t want ANYTHING to keep that top hooked to the tree once it starts to go ............... I don,t like using a wedge up in the tree either , tho sometimes it,s necessary , and usually I have one in my pocket ..
 
I watched the same guy in a very tricky situation. His saw quit running, it would not start, he had no spare, the rest of the crew had gone home except for his helper, so he finished topping the tree with his axe and wedge since it was almost cut through. That was scary. For everybody.
 
I will cut both sides of my holding wood so there is just a post of heart wood , and will cut that as the top starts to go . I don,t want ANYTHING to keep that top hooked to the tree once it starts to go ............... I don,t like using a wedge up in the tree either , tho sometimes it,s necessary , and usually I have one in my pocket ..
Hey Tramp, what factors determine if a tree will have to be topped? Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but its interestin to see how things are done differently from the midwest to the Great NW?
 
Why scary ??

I watched the same guy in a very tricky situation. His saw quit running, it would not start, he had no spare, the rest of the crew had gone home except for his helper, so he finished topping the tree with his axe and wedge since it was almost cut through. That was scary. For everybody.
.
. If there is only 1 way the top can go I can understand that , but otherwise , if it wants to go backward , let it go there !! .... A dull ax isn,t alot of use up in a tree . but if the ax is sharp , all you need to do is make the face taller ,and deeper, which will cause the top to lean into the face and off it goes I,ve topped timber with an ax and a topping misery whip .... It,s just alot of work , not a safety issue ????? . Putting in small side faces makes it alot safer , as far as the top splitting and killing the climber ...... Not much chance up there for a do over !!!!
 
Lift trees

Hey Tramp, what factors determine if a tree will have to be topped? Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but its interestin to see how things are done differently from the midwest to the Great NW?
.

.

If the tree will be used as a lift tree it is best to top it .. . Most all my topping is for residential purposes now . Most of the time it is better to top a tree than fall it between houses and power lines ect.
 
Some operators prefer to top their tail trees. Some do not. The topping camp prefers it because they figure it takes weight off the tree. The tree will be under a lot of stress once it is in use. It'll wiggle around quite a bit. If the top is on, that adds more weight to the picture, and might make the wiggling worse which will weaken the tree and it might pull out or break off. Think about the way we wiggle fence posts to get them out of the ground. Add some guylines and it makes it harder to pull out.

The same goes for topping intermediate support (jack) trees.
 
Some operators prefer to top their tail trees. Some do not. The topping camp prefers it because they figure it takes weight off the tree. The tree will be under a lot of stress once it is in use. It'll wiggle around quite a bit. If the top is on, that adds more weight to the picture, and might make the wiggling worse which will weaken the tree and it might pull out or break off. Think about the way we wiggle fence posts to get them out of the ground. Add some guylines and it makes it harder to pull out.

The same goes for topping intermediate support (jack) trees.

when i go to shoving on a tree that is most likely too big for a d6"25 inch plus tree"i can heave it a helluva lot better tree length,if it were a spar it would be twice as hard to knock over,because in a tree that large the trees own weight is all that topples it,gotta learn to read shadows(to get your power application timed right)you dont wanna stick your head out of the cab when you get a 90 footer whippin real good!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top