My system is to tie-in below weaakness of diameter, crack, decay etc. Then take slings and choke them every ~5-8' vertically, running both lines thru them. Each one becomes a saafety if the previous one fails. As i imagine a mountain climber might do. i also make sure that an pulls will not pull my lifeline up out of the safety zone of the primary TIP low.
i do 'cheat' and use my rigging loop runners and steel twist lox that i use for virtually all rigging, and always have. On the way down they become foot and hand holds, belt connection points, drink holders, rigging points pulling points for flexing load over etc.
i also do as monkey and squirrel and stay in line with the spar beneath me, picturing putting my balanced wieght straight down into the spar, along with it's columnar strength. It is something special to watch a fluffy top floating horizontally down; getting smaller and smaller; falling neatly, and fairly tightly into the box.....
If taking wieght mostly off front, i will save weight on opposite side for counter balance. If rigging where a pull might give a pull forward, i will lean back to offset and balance across the columnar strength of the spar, for it can carry more weight safely balanced than unbalanced, just as any other system.... IMLHO
When cutting i will try to plot and schedule (with speed, direction and plenty of face, side and back precuts) as complet an instantaneous seperation of wood as possible before most pulling force (or sometimes pushing) builds; whether topping or limbing without catching in rig.
In rigging still go for slow hinge delivery to pretightened & selftightening rig. Another good time in rigging to remember that a pulley can put 2x load on support (that too should be blanced and running directly down the columnar strength of the spar); but high friction on support can be much less load on support system.
4" min. for a main TIP, going above sounds comfortable for what i see and have the guts for!
methinx :alien:
-KC