Tore into the 031AV!

[RED-85-Z51]

That was a little more involved than I had figured it would be.

Got the bar cover off, bar and chain off.

I wanted to pull the muffler off and have a look at the bore and piston....2 minute job on any other saw. Not on this thing.

You take the little hidden screw out of the side of the muffler..

Then loosen 2 little screws that hold the top cover on, on the right side, then take the air filter cover, Air filter clamshell off, then take off one more hidden screw under there. Then flip the cover back, to reveal 2 screws holding the muffler flange to the head.

So you take these off and finally, the muffler lifts free.

Unfortunately, the port is very tiny, you can only see a tiny section of the piston and bore.

My bore looks great, light scuffing on the Ex. port side of the piston, but the rings looked clean.

My muffler was broke though, where the flange is welded to the tube that enters the muffler can, it was cracked 3/4 of the way around. I was able to "burn out" the muffler, and get a clean braze on the flange, it looks awesome. Bolted it on, and no movement.

I was concerned about the carb moving around, only to find it was mounted on a rubber boot, boot looked good, a little dirty, but good. AV mounts look Decent at best. The top one is stiff, but the one on the bottom of the handle is perfect, just not bolted on.

I have a question though. The "brake" handle pivots back and forth, but it doesnt appear to do anything, and there is no where for a BAND to go around the drum...what am I missing?

 

[Lakeside53]

The brake was optional -all you have is a hand guard.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

The brake was optional -all you have is a hand guard.

When you look at the clutch, it is of course inboard mounted. What is the smaller part that goes into the housing? Would there be a smaller band in there for a brake?

Seems weird that the whole thing is there for it to pivot, springs and all, but nothing to hook it all up to.

I DO like the air filter setup though, dont know why...maybe because its so easy to clean off and re-use?

Still trying to figure out why it was parked. Im guessing the recoil broke, as that is all that is missing.

 

[Lakeside53]

The clutch is "outboard" - like a husky



If you have an external arm that goes from the chain cover to the handguard, then you may be just missing the brake band.



This will help clarify:

Items 3-13 are the optional brake components. All this stuff resides inside the cover.

 

[Ax-man]

Good luck with your project. I did one of those 031 project saws with points, it was nightmare getting that thing to run right. Finally got it going, did some firewood cutting with and was disappointed in it. Never did see what the big deal was about those saws that everyone else thought was so great. I sold the thing shortly afterward. Good ridence. Did a 028 Wood Boss saw after the 031, liked it much better. Still have that saw in my collection.

Larry

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Well, Im committed to it now...

Thanks to Madsaw, I got the Recoil I needed today. Thanks to Lakeside I had the screws to hold it on.

You guys

I put it all back together, cleaned the air filter, blew the intake area off.

Added some Liquid love to the tank, and pulled...and pulled, and pulled.

Nothing, not even a sputter. So I sprayed some mix into the air filter, and it ran for a couple seconds.

Now I know it will run, Ive got a christmas list of parts to get for it, of anyone knows part #'s or if the parts are still made...holler.

(2) starter pawls
(1) Carb rebuild kit
(1) rubber intake boot.
(1) upper iso-mount
(1) fuel line
(1) Impulse line
(1) Kill switch

Its got hella spark...it jumped up and bit the heck outta me. So ignition isnt a problem, its got awesome compression too. just no gas.

 

[mini kahuna]

that spark comment is true,those old stihls throw a mean spark,it will jump right to you if your in the vicinity,thanks for the chuckle!!

 

[RED-85-Z51]

that spark comment is true,those old stihls throw a mean spark,it will jump right to you if your in the vicinity,thanks for the chuckle!!

I didnt have the loop handle on, just had it on the floor with my hand on the top cover, pulling with my right hand.

Thumb wandred over during the pull fest and got bit. I felt it in my elbow first, my wrist then collapsed. I confirmed at that point that SPARK was not my problem...

 

[mini kahuna]

red,those things bite without remorse,I got my knee to close to one,it went from my knee to my butt against the workbench,had to walk that one off let me tell you!!

 

[RED-85-Z51]

red,those things bite without remorse,I got my knee to close to one,it went from my knee to my butt against the workbench,had to walk that one off let me tell you!!

Nothing bites quite so hard as a Wisconsin Impulse Magneto ignition...one of them hits ya, you might wake up with soiled pants.

 

[JohnO]

For your question on brake vs. non-brake clutches, here are some pics showing the difference.

Standard:


With Brake:


I've never actually seen an 031 with a functional brake. The one in the picture still had some of the hardware, but not the band or the rod to activate it. Not too popular I guess.

Also, I remembered you post about liking the looks of the 031 muffler. There are actually two (or more) styles. I haven't figured out if one is better than the other, and as you have noticed, doing a back to back test isn't much fun with the amount of disassembly required. The muffler on the left is more common from what I have seen.



Have fun with the saw,

-John

 

[RED-85-Z51]

For your question on brake vs. non-brake clutches, here are some pics showing the difference.

Standard:


With Brake:


I've never actually seen an 031 with a functional brake. The one in the picture still had some of the hardware, but not the band or the rod to activate it. Not too popular I guess.

Also, I remembered you post about liking the looks of the 031 muffler. There are actually two (or more) styles. I haven't figured out if one is better than the other, and as you have noticed, doing a back to back test isn't much fun with the amount of disassembly required. The muffler on the left is more common from what I have seen.



Have fun with the saw,

-John

Well, mine has the non-brake clutch on it, also It has the big open pipe style muffler.

I cleaned it out last night, years of crap and carbon now are all gone.

I fired up the Torch and heated the shell up till it glowed, then put it in the from opening till it glowed all the way down, same with the inlet tube.

I got so much crap out of that thing. Then I wire brushed it all and hit it with some 1200 degree flat black paint, to keep it from rusting in 80% humidity. Looks like new now.

 

[Madsaw]

Well, Im committed to it now...

Thanks to Madsaw, I got the Recoil I needed today. Thanks to Lakeside I had the screws to hold it on.

You guys

I put it all back together, cleaned the air filter, blew the intake area off.

Added some Liquid love to the tank, and pulled...and pulled, and pulled.

Nothing, not even a sputter. So I sprayed some mix into the air filter, and it ran for a couple seconds.

Now I know it will run, Ive got a christmas list of parts to get for it, of anyone knows part #'s or if the parts are still made...holler.

(2) starter pawls
(1) Carb rebuild kit
(1) rubber intake boot.
(1) upper iso-mount
(1) fuel line
(1) Impulse line
(1) Kill switch

Its got hella spark...it jumped up and bit the heck outta me. So ignition isnt a problem, its got awesome compression too. just no gas.

Red,
Would you like me to see what is left on the carcass out in the shop that is on your list? I know the boot is there and the switch.
Bob

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Red,
Would you like me to see what is left on the carcass out in the shop that is on your list? I know the boot is there and the switch.
Bob

Really I want to replace the boot and lines with new parts, Its too hard to get access to them to put a used part on and chance it failing soon. Same with the AV mount.

But if you've got a carb, or a switch or something, That'd be awesome.

MY carb looks good, very clean, the rubber boot looks good, and my lines are all intact, including the impulse line. But the carb wont draft fuel up. I figure all those rubber parts are bound to fail soon, even if they are in good shape now.

I dont see anything right off that it needs other than the kill switch. It was fine, until I pushed it in, it wounldnt pop back out though, the back of the switch fell off and it was all rotten.

The starter went right on, its awesome!

It really is a nice saw, a little weighty, but its certainly got a look all its own. Stihl shouls have adopted the slant back cylidner on all their saws.

 

[Just Mow]

Red, sounds like you are enjoying your work. Post pictures when you have it completed.

 

[Lakeside53]

The brake system shown on the pictures above is the very old and relatively rare clutch based system. The brake system as shown my diagram with the band is the more usual system, and it uses the standard clutch.



part numbers:

2) starter pawls - check your flywheel, but likely 1113 195 7200
(1) Carb rebuild kit - Walbro K10-WAT or HU kit (different carbs)- don't buy from stihl.
(1) rubber intake boot - 1113 141 2201 - failure is rare - expensive - don't replace unless you have too!
(1) upper iso-mount - 1113 790 9901
(1) fuel line - in tank line - 1113 358 7700
(1) Impulse line - 1113 141 8000
(1) Kill switch - 1110 430 0202 - buy used... check ground to case.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

The brake system shown on the pictures above is the very old and relatively rare clutch based system. The brake system as shown my diagram with the band is the more usual system, and it uses the standard clutch.



part numbers:

2) starter pawls - check your flywheel, but likely 1113 195 7200
(1) Carb rebuild kit - Walbro K10-WAT or HU kit (different carbs)- don't buy from stihl.
(1) rubber intake boot - 1113 141 2201 - failure is rare - expensive - don't replace unless you have too!
(1) upper iso-mount - 1113 790 9901
(1) fuel line - in tank line - 1113 358 7700
(1) Impulse line - 1113 141 8000
(1) Kill switch - 1110 430 0202 - buy used... check ground to case.

One I take the 3 screws out that hold the top cover onto the carb "shroud" how do I remove the shroud itself?

I removed the 2 8mm nuts that hold on the carb, but all that did was remove the carb. The box moves all around, every which direction..but I couldnt figure out how to take it off and look at the boot. PLEASE dont tell me I have to pull the jug

The starter pawls have just worn over time, every so often you pull and it will "slip". The pawls must be supposed to have a flat engagement edge, but these are worn to a slope.

The fuel line out of the tank looks good, but its extremely stiff. Impulse line looked fine, very pliable, but I worry with all my tugging trying to get the carb shroud off, I may have cut it somewhere.

Regardless, it wouldnt start, no matter how hard I pulled or choked it. Its got a decent pull to it, Ill give it that. Even with a less than perfect piston/cylinder, it pulls as hard as an 044, easily.

 

[JohnO]

To remove the carb box and intake boot, loosen the hose clamp where the intake boot fits onto the jug. To remove the intake boot from the carb box, pull the little metal ring out (the one that mates with the carb), then the intake boot can be pulled out easily.

-John

 

[Lakeside53]

Leave the intake boot on the jug.. take out the small metal ring inside the boot and push the rubber boot though the carb box!

You need a service manual and IPL...