Torque, RPMs, Porting...My Philosophy

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Nov 8, 2006
Messages
53,727
Reaction score
33,340
Location
Franklin, OH
This is my philosophy on chainsaw modding and performance. In no way am I claiming to be the king of modders, or that others philosophies are wrong. Nothing could be further from the truth. Just like my philosophy is personalized, so are your needs. Choice is a beautiful thing. This is simply what I like in a saw and how I believe they should perform. Yes, I've been beat in races before, and will be in the future. However, this is what I strive for when I build a saw.

First of all, it's all about chain speed. After all, that's what cuts the wood. I believe that a modded chainsaw should have both torque and RPMs. Neither one should eclipse the other. It takes both to make a fast saw. IMHO, if I haven't figured out how to get both out of a saw, I'm not happy and don't feel like I've mastered that model yet. If the saw doesn't make more RPMs than stock at the same load, then it's not going to cut any faster. If the saw is making RPMs, but only at a lower load, then torque is insufficient. I demand both.

So, how would I describe a good saw? Well, I've seen you guys definite it as angry, or nasty, or as I like to call it, with an attitude. I love a saw that feels like it's just desperate to get through that log. That requires more RPMs AND the torque to maintain those RPMs under load. A good saw will be both respectable in a cant race and be capable of pulling a long bar.

How do I get there? Well, I really don't care to get into the details of build design. Just like philosophies are different on how a saw should run, so might be how I build them. Again, this isn't to say I'm right and someone else is wrong, it's just how I build them to make them run like I like them.

My builds do not take fuel consumption into account. If it takes more fuel to make a saw run as I want it to, so be it. As the saying goes, "ponies (read horsepower) like to drink". My build criteria is to maximize chain speed, not fuel conservation. This is another example of personalized needs. I understand the remote logger that is concerned about fuel consumption. He's certainly not wrong to have that concern.

I'm not concerned about super low RPM torque. That's not how today's saws are intended to be run. By the same token, a good saw will have a sufficiently wide powerband that it is easy to operate and maintain chain speed. A saw that constantly bogs is totally unacceptable. Again, it takes both torque and RPMs to make this happen. I'm far more concerned to see a saw make good power from 9K-12K than I am from 7K-10K. Again, this is just me, and your opinion may vary greatly. For some, it's a matter of what you're used to. If you're an old timer that still wants to operate modern saws as you did your old school Mac, well, saws run differently today, IMHO.

Break-in. Now there's a current hot topic, lol. Personally, I think it's over rated. IMHO, a good saw will be good right out of the box. Take the 461 in the vid below for example. It's still on it's first tank of fuel. It runs fantastic! Sure, it'll loosen up a little during the next few tanks. But, I don't see break-in making a dog of a saw run good after a few tanks. Just my opinion now guys!:)

I don't expect all of you to agree with me. I expect that and get that. I'm OK with that. We all have different needs, different expectations, and different ideas. This isn't to knock anyone else's ideas or expectations. This is simply how I believe and what I strive for.

Post up. Keep it on topic. Keep it NOT personal! What do you like in a saw?

Here are a few of my saws that I ran yesterday. Actually, the 461 is for a customer. This saw is going to an arborist with decades of experience. It will be delivered tomorrow. The saw is still on it's first tank of fuel here. The wood is dead and dried hardwood. The biggest piece is a crotch. Just before the actual crotch, I cut about 4" slabs that will be made into tables. The rest was blocked up to be used for wood turnings, specifically custom made pens and similar.



This here is my personal 390XP. This saw is unbeaten in cant racing at Wiggs, however, it'll still pull a 36" full comp chain buried in hard crotch wood. Yes, the chain is sharp, and rakers are right at .025. The wood is just that hard.


This here is my custom 2188 bored out with a 2100 thin ring piston. It doesn't make quite the RPMs of the 390, but has a little more torque. I prefer the 390. Many of you might prefer this 2188, another example of personal differences , likes and needs.


2014060795174638_2-M.jpg
 
Well, I just so happened to be thinking about that same topic. I was thinking that it was a little odd that my favorite saw was not exactly my newest or biggest. My 362 is the smoothest in the cut, rides like a caddilac. But more often than not, the old 038 super is the saw i grab. It just plain goes. Dont matter what I'm cutting , it just gets it done quick. It does not bog down, period. Its not good looking or light but it would be the last one I would let go of. FWIW
 
Brad how much would charge to port a 372 xtorque. I'll wait till the warranty runs out. I'm unsure between my 550xp or 372 which one I want 'hopped up'
 
I like torque personally. If it turns 12.5k out of the wood and 11.8k in the wood that's fine. I won't tune one over 13.5-13.8k for a work saw. The extra rpms are just not needed. If I want a cookie cutter I'll build one.
 
...the old 038 super is the saw i grab. It just plain goes. Dont matter what I'm cutting , it just gets it done quick. It does not bog down, period.
:rolleyes:All saws bog down. Well, maybe not an old Mac gear drive... But I see your point.

I like a saw that gets a lot of work done without making me feel worked over, but I don't have a lot of experience with ported saws...
 
I definitely would like to have both. Who wouldn't want a saw that would hold high RPM's in the cut while being leaned on. People talk of saws either being temperamental "cookie cutters" or chugging diesel "work saws". The key to great engine building is to have both. I don't know if this is possible with 2 strokes, but all the great car engines pull hard from 1500 thru redline. I honestly think all builders want to build a saw that will turn higher RPM than stock under every load condition. Brad's right, if the chain is not turning faster under a given load than it would with a stock saw, than what's the point? Statements such as "I like a torquey saw" or "I like a fast saw" may actually be saying the same thing, we all just prefer different words for a strong saw, but many of us know one when we have it in our hands.
 
Most definitely like rpms and torque!

The husky 372 and 268 that I've done are great and so is the jred 2171 I finished a couple months ago!

My buddies shinny 757 I did is a completely different saw from its stock form

The MM 346 I have is really fast and can really be leaned on
 
what i like in a saw. starts by the third pull,dont have to wrench on it other than plugs and tightening the chain,has enough poop to cut through 30+"oak,hickory,black locust and what ever else gets in the way. i cut firewood 6-8 hrs. some days and it better not let me down.look at my sig and you'll see what i use and they work fine for me. i ran some modded saws at our GTG and i was impressed.just not in the cards for me right now.just call me an old fart.:laugh:
 
Good perspective Brad one reason why I went to you on my first modified saw... and technically the second time lol.
 
all time favs.........early 044 and 064, i have the most time on um probly.
power? 288 ranks right up there, i just never liked the controls or feel of husky.
5200 and 056 were monsters for the wood here, you could lean hard on um. but who wants to carry them things today lol.
the 461 is quickly becoming a new favorite......just not for 30"+ falling.
 
All engines are going to have an optimum running speed where the power and torque curve cross paths at their peak and then start to fall off regardless of extra rpm. So with your specialized porting you aim to change these curves and maybe achieve more power/torque in a different range, now as a mechanic and a performance engine builder (not small engines granted) this doesn't necessarily occur higher in the rpm range and in fact at times it cam occur significantly lower. So wouldn't your theory be (for example) you had a saw making 6hp/6lb/ft@11000 and ported it and it made 6.5hp/6.5lb/ft@10750, would the secret then be to start looking at custom sprockets to maintain the high chain speed you aim for within the lower peak performance rpm range ?
 
All engines are going to have an optimum running speed where the power and torque curve cross paths at their peak and then start to fall off regardless of extra rpm. So with your specialized porting you aim to change these curves and maybe achieve more power/torque in a different range, now as a mechanic and a performance engine builder (not small engines granted) this doesn't necessarily occur higher in the rpm range and in fact at times it cam occur significantly lower. So wouldn't your theory be (for example) you had a saw making 6hp/6lb/ft@11000 and ported it and it made 6.5hp/6.5lb/ft@10750, would the secret then be to start looking at custom sprockets to maintain the high chain speed you aim for within the lower peak performance rpm range ?
That may be so, but isn't the kind of saw I like to build or run.
 
That may be so, but isn't the kind of saw I like to build or run.

I hope you didn't take that as a personal shot, because one thing that is clear, you would have forgotten more about the way a small engine works than i will ever know, its just that once you build a performance engine, the final gear ratio is going to be what makes or breaks it so i was just questioning if or not the same theory applied to performance work on chainsaws.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top