torque wrench???

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Wiha makes a whole line of specialty tools .From what I've seen,all good quality.
 
Torque Spec.

how many inch lbs are you torqueing these screws to? Imo you would simply get a feel for that torque and tighten by hand . Unless they are rod ends , bearing caps or head bolts/nuts etc the key is to draw them up evenly and by feel . I have " torqued " thousands of bolts by listening for the click in my wrist. I do understand that not everyone pulls wrenchs daily .
 
I built quite a few V-8 Ford and Chevy engines, motorcycle engines, Briggs engines...etc. I never used a torque wrench, never had a problem. Im not saying its a bad idea to use one, but thats how I have always done it. :popcorn:
 
m4, 2.5 nm ,m5 6.9 nm m6 9.8 nm.Multiply Newton meters times .7375 to convert to foot pounds.I think the cylinder bolts are M5.
 
i thought that the origin of the torx was primarly to extend bit life by preventing 'camming out', not necessarily fastener life, do torx have other advantages in low torque(steel-mag/al) applications? the philips/flat head were designed to cam out when tightened and werent designed with machine work in mind.

You have to separate the "drive design" from the implemetation. Stihl choose a high strength design with locking grooves in the back. Great fastener particularly for Al-Mag. No need for a washer, great drive power and almost never cam out or strip. Not real cheap, mainly available from from Stihl (but not made exclusively for Stihl), but after you've worked on Stihl's for a while you end up with buckets of them!
 
m4, 2.5 nm ,m5 6.9 nm m6 9.8 nm.Multiply Newton meters times .7375 to convert to foot pounds.I think the cylinder bolts are M5.


Your values are a bit low.. Stihl uses high strength fasteners and cranks it up.

Each fastner has a specific torque valve, but typcial values on a stihl are

m4 - 4-5nm

m5 - 044 Cylinder - 11.5nm

m6 - 046 Cylinder - 15nm
 
just like my idea of mig welding it
and then i remebered that i am building this saw to trade or sell for a mig welder
ha my bad

Don't weld it!!! Welding will embrittle the socket and it will shatter on you. What I've done was cut the Torx wrench off and fit it to a socket. I believe mine fit best on a metric, can't remember the size off the top of my head. Then I just silver soldered the shank of the Torx bit into the socket.

If you solder it let air cool, don't dump it into H2O.
 
Your values are a bit low.. Stihl uses high strength fasteners and cranks it up.

Each fastner has a specific torque valve, but typcial values on a stihl are

m4 - 4-5nm

m5 - 044 Cylinder - 11.5nm

m6 - 046 Cylinder - 15nm
Probabley so,I took them from a Stihl micro from an 042/048.A lot of given torque values take into consideration the size and length of fastener,the length of thread engagement,the class of thread fit and the length of unthreaded bolt being torqued.

Some use a torque value while some use a predetermined pre torque then followed by an angular turn of a given degree.

It can translate into a whole bunch of goobly gook for the simple"tight is tight,too tight is broke"
 
Unless they are rod ends , bearing caps or head bolts/nuts etc the key is to draw them up evenly and by feel

While technically not head bolts, they should feel the same forces as head bolts because the ones that we are talking about here hold down the cylinder/head integral casting. They still have to take the stress of compression and combustion. They don't have to maintain a gasket under compression and combustion, though. In any case, because they are what I believe to be critical engine fasteners, I'd like to hit the torque spec. (I don't spin a wrench day-in and day-out)
 
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KMB already beat me to it. Just get the one from Wiha. It's 15 including shipping. You probably won't find one locally. I looked all over town for them and couldn't find one. And the Wiha tools will fit through the holes in the head.

Evan
 
Id braze it, myself.

Torque Wrench...WTH is that??? :ices_rofl: :ices_rofl: :ices_rofl: I spin wrenches all day, you get a feel for "guedenteit" after a while. You can feel what the fastener is doing, you can feel it taking the torque. I never used the "clicker" style, only the flexing needle style, you just know what it feels like.

I like TORX stuff to an extent, until it strips, then you are SOL.

T-27 is an oddball size, but It came in my Harbor Freight Torx kit, and Ive been using that kit for a while now, so far the only casualty was T20. Someone replaced a Torx head screw with an Allen headed one, I didnt realize it in time and when I put pressure to it, it took the ends of the driver off.

Good part about T-27 though, if it does strip the screw head, a T-30 can be made to fit with some Dremel love and a hammer.:D

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just get the fasteners Good and tight, not tight enough to strip the threads, and not so loose its easy to back em out. The Stihl fasteners tend to "snap" loose when they are tightened properly.
 
FROM WIKIPEDIA-----

Hard soldering" or "silver soldering" (performed with high-temperature solder containing up to 40% silver) is also often a form of brazing, since it involves filler materials with melting points in the vicinity of, or in excess of, 450 °C. Although the term "silver soldering" is used much more often than "silver brazing", it may be technically incorrect depending on the exact melting point of the filler in use. In silver soldering ("hard soldering"), the goal is generally to give a beautiful, structurally sound joint, especially in the field of jewelry. Thus, the temperatures involved, and the usual use of a torch rather than an iron, would seem to indicate that the process should be referred to as "brazing" rather than "soldering", but the endurance of the "soldering" apellation serves to indicate the arbitrary nature of the distinction (and the level of confusion) between the two processes.

000000000000000000000000000000

Brazing is a joining process whereby a non-ferrous filler metal or alloy is heated to melting temperature above 450°C (842°F), or, by the traditional definition that has been used in the United States, above 800°F (425)°C and distributed between two or more close-fitting parts by capillary action. At its liquid temperature, the molten filler metal and flux interacts with a thin layer of the base metal, cooling to form an exceptionally strong, sealed joint due to grain structure interaction. With certain metals, such as Nitinol (Nickel Titanium) and Niobium, a low temperature eutectic can form. This leads to the bonding of the two metals at a point that can be substantially lower than their respective melting temperatures. The brazed joint becomes a sandwich of different layers, each metallurgically linked to the adjacent layers. Common brazements are about 1/3 as strong as the materials they join because the metals partially dissolve each other at the interface and usually the grain structure and joint alloy is uncontrolled. To create high-strength brazes, sometimes a brazement can be annealed, or cooled at a controlled rate, so that the joint's grain structure and alloying is controlled. It is also at 1/3 strength because the metal used to braze is usually weaker than the substrate metal because it melts at a lower temperature, ensuring the substrate does not melt.

Braze welding

In another similar usage, brazing is the use of a bronze or brass filler rod coated with flux together with an oxyacetylene torch, to join pieces of steel. The American Welding Society prefers to use the term Braze Welding for this process, as capillary attraction is not involved, unlike the prior silver brazing example. Braze welding takes place at the melting temperature of the filler (e.g., 870 °C to 980 °C or 1600 °F to 1800 °F for bronze alloys) which is often considerably lower than the melting point of the base material (e.g., 1600 °C (2900 °F) for mild steel).

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Depending on what kind of work you plan on doing, you might consider investing in an O/A outfit and taking up Brazing first, before moving into Welding.

Brazing is an ART, done properly, the attached joints can be VERY strong, with little effect on the peices being worked on.

I like MIG welding too though, it has its place.

ARC welding is ALOT of fun, but takes patience and alot of practice. I learned on an old 220/ 3 phase outfit...We were welding 1" peices of steel together:chainsawguy:

TIG...Well, its expensive, takes alot of practice, but if you need a good clean, Slag free weld, especially on aluminum, THATS the way to go.
 

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