tractor thingamajig

[rdbrumfield]

I have seen a few adaptions for recievers and I have wanted to make one for a while.
This one isn't quite finished as there is going to be an 8000lb hyd unit tucked into the tractor side of the unit and a boom with a set of tongs. There will also be an attachment on the boom up close with a block on it so the winch line will fairlead into the winch a bit better.
Anyway, take a look, if you have some ideas how to make a better mousetrap, I am all ears. I love to tinker.

 

[LD1]

I really like the hook idea.

I have a reciever similar to that i just used an old truck reciever and welded a vertical piece on to hook the top link to.

You have to be careful when using it to tow/pull because the higher you raise the 3ph the more likely to do a big wheel stand. Having front weights or a loader is a big plus.

 

[2dogs]

I really like the hook idea.

I have a reciever similar to that i just used an old truck reciever and welded a vertical piece on to hook the top link to.

You have to be careful when using it to tow/pull because the higher you raise the 3ph the more likely to do a big wheel stand. Having front weights or a loader is a big plus.

Darn right! Going up hill with anything attached to the 3-point can cause the tractor to go over backwards. Try to keep the load below the axle. If your tractor has a ROPS then keep your seat belt on. Water filled tires and front weights are a huge help.

 

[LD1]

You didn't mention what type/size of tractor you were building this for.

Looking at the pics it looks like CAT1 size holes so I would assume under 40hp size tractor???

This is probabally where I am supposed to say that I agree and you should never raise the hitch point above the axles, that why all tractors hook low..............but from experience, backing right up to a log, lowering the 3ph and chaining as short as possible, and then raising the 3ph to get the log off the ground, you can pull way more log than say chaining 8-10 feet and the butt end drag.

But you must be very careful and experienced with your equipment. I have no worries at all with a loader on, just be careful.

 

[rdbrumfield]

Yes it is built for a cat I, but can be bushed up to cat II. It is strong enough for sure. It is going on my 50 hp JD. However I did take it down and put it on something like a 25hp Jd and it worked nicely. I was surprised that it stayed perfectly verticle within a few inches from full down to full top.

The dealership wants to stock them, personally I would rather build for the individual. I just hate the middleman taking as large a cut as they want.

i am going to build a few that are a bit lighter. I can pick this one by one hand easily enough, but with the price of steel I can cut it back some for the smaller tractors.

I should have the rest of it made in a couple of days and painted. Have some other chores to get taken care of.

The one thing about this is that it is close up to the tractor so it is not as likely to pull the frontend off the ground. Like you say though, one foot ready near the clutch and on on the hoist lever. even with a loader on, when pulling uphill with a suspended load on the rear and the weight transferr from the front to the back because of the hill angle will make for some careful manuevering.

 

[LD1]

If you plan on building them for people either look at their tractor or get a measurment first.....the distance between where the lower arms hook to the tractor and where the top link hooks to the tractor.

The trick to keeping them level throughout their range is to make that distance the same on the hitch which keeps the top link parallel with the lower arms and not all tractors are spaced the same.

 

[rdbrumfield]

Ok, here it is finished up. The boom can be taken off and the main frame used with the regular top link. Just need to put some line in it, I have a small block that will hang right in back of the tongs and that will fairlead the winch and give some lift.

 

[rdbrumfield]

side view, had to downsize a bit to get it in.

 

[Metals406]

Looks good!

You should make a video when it's completed, and in use.

 

[2dogs]

Looks good!

You should make a video when it's completed, and in use.

Yep! I can't tell from the pic where the winch is in comparison to the center of the axle housing. The fairlead should be below the axle. If it is above the axle then the axle housing (tires) becomes a fulcrum to pull the front wheels up. This can cause the tractor to go over backwards. Be careful!

 

[Cletuspsc]

Now that is one heck of a thingamajigger. . . . nice work.

happy loggin

 

[rdbrumfield]

2dogs, you are absolutely right about balance.

If you notice, I built it as close to the tractor as possible. The boom does stick back a bit, but i carry things just a bit off the ground, if the tractor started to come up as soon as the weight hit the ground it would stop the tractor from coming up any higher. I always have one hand on the 3pt lever when I am pulling with the 3pt.

It is hard to see in this pic, but there are a couple of chain hooks on the lower cross member. I can still pick them about 3+ft off the ground. I might add, the boom is for mostly pulling smaller wood, and for the pulley to get the line to feed into the winch nicely. I won't be pulling against the winch. I think the tractor has enough power to walk right through it. I can winch up to me, take the chain and hook it to the lower chain hooks and go thereby releasing the weight on the winch. boom and get the weight forward.

The thing about tractoring, they are not racecars. A nice steady pull will do nicely.

Thank you for the input. Nice when folks appreciate your handywork.

 

[Mike Van]

Nice job rd - You're right about the load bottoming, I do it from time to time. Speed too, most of this is low range stuff, I see no need to go like there's a time clock on me.

 

[dancan]

Way to go . I'm going to put something like that together (might have to steal a couple of your ideas) for a pto driven winch but i'm going to ad a lower blade to stop the tractor from rolling back .

 

[rdbrumfield]

dancan, I used to do just what you are talking about.

I used 8000 and 12000lb winches. At the time koenig was in business and I could get gearing in 36,18 and 9to1 gearing both left and righthand turn.

couple of things you need to consider. One, if you use an upright winch like the one in my pic, it has to be underwound, that is the line needs to come into the winch on the lower part of the drum. this reduces the leverage on trying to tip the winch toward the object being pulled and if the line breaks, it tends to hit the ground instead of coming up over the tractor. This I have learned from experience.

Some winches have oneway braking systems. You can winch in, but it won't pay out. Thing is, if you get in a position where you cannot put slack in the line, you will not be able to disengage the winch.

What I did was make a ratchet that I put on the worm shaft. I had the company make my winches so the shaft stuck out on both ends. One side for the pto, the other for the braking pawl. It worked very well for both the 9 and 18to1 gearing. at 36to1 the gears are cut to straight to be able to unwind.

I do have some pics of the system, but that was before the computer. I could get them scanned and put them up if need be.

 

[Metals406]

dancan, I used to do just what you are talking about.

I used 8000 and 12000lb winches. At the time koenig was in business and I could get gearing in 36,18 and 9to1 gearing both left and righthand turn.

couple of things you need to consider. One, if you use an upright winch like the one in my pic, it has to be underwound, that is the line needs to come into the winch on the lower part of the drum. this reduces the leverage on trying to tip the winch toward the object being pulled and if the line breaks, it tends to hit the ground instead of coming up over the tractor. This I have learned from experience.

Some winches have oneway braking systems. You can winch in, but it won't pay out. Thing is, if you get in a position where you cannot put slack in the line, you will not be able to disengage the winch.

What I did was make a ratchet that I put on the worm shaft. I had the company make my winches so the shaft stuck out on both ends. One side for the pto, the other for the braking pawl. It worked very well for both the 9 and 18to1 gearing. at 36to1 the gears are cut to straight to be able to unwind.

I do have some pics of the system, but that was before the computer. I could get them scanned and put them up if need be.

Pics please! I'd like to make a winch this summer.

 

[milkie62]

Great fabrication work.I cannot weld but made up to great timesavers where I worked.I can do fab work pretty good but like I said I am not a welder.

 

[dancan]

Yes please , scan and post some more pics .

 

[rdbrumfield]

I have pulled some pictures and will get them scanned soon to post.

 

[Oregon_Grown]

Nice Frame

I can see a nice Thomas Kincaid in that! LOL:monkey: