trail clearing saw

[wADVr]

Hello,

New here and am researching saws for clearing single track moto trails in the central Cascades. We use these trails late in the fall for hunting access much later than most volunteer groups are out clearing the way and it is quite common to have windstorms block trails.

I have been looking at top handle saws from Stihl (familiar with the brand and there are many shops that support them around here). The top handle saw is more compact obviously for carrying and seem to be the right size/power for what I am intending although in extreme situations could very well be undersized. Being someone who likes old stuff made out of metal I am interested in the 020t saws for their lower cost compared to the 200t which would be nice but much more money. I have come across a 020av on Craigslist and from what I gather is the older version of the 020t but other than that I get a bit fuzzy on the models, differences etc. Have also seen a couple 009 and 015s as well as a 193t in the price range which is attractive being newer but all that plastic has me not impressed.

What opinions on these saws and other suggestions do you all have?

Thanks

 

[LonestarStihl]

Personally I think most folks are better off with rear handle unless your up in the trees. Better control of the saw. If you’re looking for smaller I’d look at something like this...


Stihl MS241
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...hl-MS241.337620/&share_type=t&link_source=app

But there’s also a good looking top handle posted recently too. Lots of good hints to be said about the ms241 though. @chipper1 can set you up good.

 

[buttercup]

Hello,

New here and am researching saws for clearing single track moto trails in the central Cascades. We use these trails late in the fall for hunting access much later than most volunteer groups are out clearing the way and it is quite common to have windstorms block trails.

I have been looking at top handle saws from Stihl (familiar with the brand and there are many shops that support them around here). The top handle saw is more compact obviously for carrying and seem to be the right size/power for what I am intending although in extreme situations could very well be undersized. Being someone who likes old stuff made out of metal I am interested in the 020t saws for their lower cost compared to the 200t which would be nice but much more money. I have come across a 020av on Craigslist and from what I gather is the older version of the 020t but other than that I get a bit fuzzy on the models, differences etc. Have also seen a couple 009 and 015s as well as a 193t in the price range which is attractive being newer but all that plastic has me not impressed.

What opinions on these saws and other suggestions do you all have?

Thanks

Depends on what you want doesn't it? If it's a "T" saw that does the job (echo) or a saw that gives you social credit (stihl).

 

[thomasinvancouver]

Top handle is a poor choice. 241 with a 14-16” or 261 with a 18-20” .325 is what you seek. A Silki Katanaboy 650 is probably a better choice for only a handful of logs.

 

[buttercup]

Top handle is a poor choice. 241 with a 14-16” or 261 with a 18-20” .325 is what you seek. A Silki Katanaboy 650 is probably a better choice for only a handful of logs.

Yea.. I agree, a top handle is a dangerous choice, and there is no alternative to overpriced sthil's anyway is there

By the way a 16"bar at 2,3kw saw is not giving you spectacular results is it? but with some patience... I'd say 13" if you want to actually use it.

 

[oldfortyfive]

For trail maintenance, meaning clearing the stray dead stuff and an occasional smaller dead tree, don't rule out a battery saw.

 

[full chizel]

A top handle saw is only as dangerous as the guy holding it.

 

[SteveSr]

Top handle is a poor choice. 241 with a 14-16” or 261 with a 18-20” .325 is what you seek. A Silki Katanaboy 650 is probably a better choice for only a handful of logs.

^ What he said... You may also have specific saw requirements if you are clearing on federal land as this work would fall under the USFS saw policy. Top handle saws are not mentioned in the policy as they are special purpose arborist "tree" saws. The issue with battery saws is that current chainsaw chaps are ineffective against them.

I do a lot of volunteer trail clearing work and the only saw that I carry is a Stihl 026/MS260 or 025/MS250 with a 16" bar.

 

[Van462]

I used a 193T as my trail saw and loved it. I could pack it, chaps, spare fuel, oil and chains in a rucksack and ride in. I muffler modded mine and it always impressed me even in trees I had to cut from both sides to clear. Mine was stolen and I replaced it with a 241, great saw but I mostly drive or hike it in. I can't backpack it without having a specialty pack. Wise use of wedges goes a long way.
I actually miss the control I had with it. I think it was easier to do plunge cuts with.

 

[buttercup]

^ What he said... You may also have specific saw requirements if you are clearing on federal land as this work would fall under the USFS saw policy. Top handle saws are not mentioned in the policy as they are special purpose arborist "tree" saws. The issue with battery saws is that current chainsaw chaps are ineffective against them.

I do a lot of volunteer trail clearing work and the only saw that I carry is a Stihl 026/MS260 or 025/MS250 with a 16" bar.

I love this

 

[buttercup]

^ What he said... You may also have specific saw requirements if you are clearing on federal land as this work would fall under the USFS saw policy. Top handle saws are not mentioned in the policy as they are special purpose arborist "tree" saws. The issue with battery saws is that current chainsaw chaps are ineffective against them.

I do a lot of volunteer trail clearing work and the only saw that I carry is a Stihl 026/MS260 or 025/MS250 with a 16" bar.

I'm just wondering, what Husqvarna, Echo or any battery chainsaws have you had a thoroughly experience with through the later years to compare with?

 

[thomasinvancouver]

Most trail clearing is much more traveling than sawing. A smaller power head with a slightly too long of a bar is common. It will cut most of the smaller logs while still being able to manage the slightly larger logs. It also puts a few more inches between you and what you’re cutting. Cut the offside and commit no more bar than is needed to complete the cut.

 

[Westboastfaller]

The issue with battery saws is that current chainsaw chaps are ineffective against them.

I think the issue is there in no pro test design.
Testing would be for 2 stroke hand held equipment with a clutch. Therefore the same test cannot be used, would be my guess.
All testing in NA,EU,NZ & Aus are all professional threshold tests other than one I believe. It was designed for professional use at the time though but is now a threshold rated for homeowner use only (2,700 fpm)
There is simply no certified test.
I don't think you are going to see a warning about electric saws on chaps that don't have any professional rating?...as explained above that they would be kicked out of the test on a technically. Hence the warnings on certified chaps with electric saws.
I wrote about this yesterday on another site and just seen a vid today after reading this, it stopped this particular electric saw really easy, just as I suspected.

 

[Westboastfaller]

 

[Westboastfaller]

 

[buttercup]

I just wants to say that if I insulted anyone last night I apologize.
I'm really a nice guy when my head is not filled with whiskey and sarcasm.

Have a good Sunday.

 

[Franny K]

New here and am researching saws for clearing single track moto trails in the central Cascades.

What opinions on these saws and other suggestions do you all have?

Assuming you are riding a motorcycle a top handle works better with a strap than a normal configuration. Attach to the bar where it comes out of the powerhead and to an attachment point at the rear. I tired a hole through the bar and sheath/scabbard but seem to not do that any more,

If you are walking a pole saw will allow you to comfortably get a bunch of face slappers where other options would probably mostly go after blow downs,

Battery has no exhaust slime and no gasoline to get odor on the clothing.


As to the battery saw and chaps, all the direct drive brushless battery chainsaws I have used have some sort of circuit breaker, really quite sensitive.

 

[SteveSr]

Nice videos! I think that eventually the industry will get this sorted out and eventually the USFS will come up with some rules and standardized testing procedures. It took them YEARS to allow anything but Kevlar chaps.

The issue with electric is that by definition they are low speed, high torque, devices whereas gas powered saws are the opposite, high speed, low torque devices. I suspect that there is also currently a HUGE variability in electric saw power and the point at where their overload protector kicks in and shuts the saw off. These videos were for two name brand saws which have over load cut-offs. Cheap off-brands may not have such protection and might keep right on cutting.

 

[green machine]

Hello,

New here and am researching saws for clearing single track moto trails in the central Cascades. We use these trails late in the fall for hunting access much later than most volunteer groups are out clearing the way and it is quite common to have windstorms block trails.

I have been looking at top handle saws from Stihl (familiar with the brand and there are many shops that support them around here). The top handle saw is more compact obviously for carrying and seem to be the right size/power for what I am intending although in extreme situations could very well be undersized. Being someone who likes old stuff made out of metal I am interested in the 020t saws for their lower cost compared to the 200t which would be nice but much more money. I have come across a 020av on Craigslist and from what I gather is the older version of the 020t but other than that I get a bit fuzzy on the models, differences etc. Have also seen a couple 009 and 015s as well as a 193t in the price range which is attractive being newer but all that plastic has me not impressed.

What opinions on these saws and other suggestions do you all have?

Thanks

an 026 stihl or something like that would be the ticket. as someone else mentioned the top handles can actually pose safety risk if your not climbing with them. I think you can get the t series saws in a rear handle model tho

 

[1Alpha1]

The MS-241 C-M is a great saw. Some have said that it's no longer in production. That was a while ago though. I haven't looked so I don't know.

When I bought mine, I used a credit card with a promo going on. Spend $500.00 within three months of getting the card, and you got $150.00 cash back.

My brand-new 241 ended up costing me $311.23.