Trail Maintenance How-To

[madhatte]

What do you mean by "relieving tension as you go"

If you look down the length of a blown-down tree, you will often see that it has wedged itself between several other trees on its way down. This means that in addition to any top or bottom bind it may have as a result of its lay, it will have often multiple side binds, as well. If you just take a big whack out of the log where you want the hole for the trail to be, it can be nearly impossible to judge where the log will go when it has binds on several axes at once. It's best, then, to cut the side binds free one by one, working from small end to big end, so that when you cut the trail clear, the log doesn't bite you. I missed one bind once and the log swung on me. It pushed me down firmly but gently, like a stern teacher. I was uninjured, but I learned the lesson.

Please expand/explain. Perhaps an example.

If you have a heavy top or bottom bind (such as a log hanging out over empty space, or hung between berms on opposite sides of a road) and you just cut from the side opposite the bind, the tension will often cause the wood on the far site to separate prematurely. It's hard to judge where the log will end up when this happens. Far better to have relieving cuts in there first so it breaks cleanly and predictably.

Like splits? I've noticed in blocking dead fall, the saw behaves very erratic in areas where the log is fractured.

Splits, rots, anything. Wood is dynamic stuff; be heads-up about its potential to hurt you.



Now, regarding the matter of poor manners: I intend to educate not only MtnHermit here, but also anybody else who comes here looking for answers. I would be doing all a disservice by refusing to answer these questions when someone could get hurt for lack of guidance. This is a "new" guy who may not know the Rules Of The Road here, and gets the same chance to sink or swim that anybody does, and the questions are pertinent to pretty much all of us.

 

[slowp]

I haven't read all the posts....yet, but that looks strangely like a tree I posted a picture of, and ended up cutting out of the trail after the snow was gone. It had a large rootwad just above the trail, which I looked at closely, and figured out that it might stay in place because it had a rock kind of holding it. But, I cut from the side it was not going to roll to, and kept an eye on it. I cut the tree right on the trail, and it stayed in place. So, I just opened the trail up.

I used orange wedges in it because it was likely to close up on the first cut. Oh, and did I mention I did it all from the safe side. No working on the side that it might roll to, if the rock failed. I couldn't find anybody to go help, so I had a plan and checked in via cell phone with somebody who lived almost next door to the trail.

I put up some flagging to block the trail and The Used Dog was in position with stuff in his backpacks.

All went as planned. I just took the sharp edges off afterwards, just to make it maybe not hurt as much if somebody tipped their bike over on it.

Now I'll read the other posts on here.

View attachment 193390

 

[slowp]

OH, and I will emphasize again, LOOK CAREFULLY AT THE ROOTWAD, AND KEEP AN EYE ON IT WHILE CUTTING.

I didn't have a peavy, but I wished I did, and I do have one now. They are one of the best inventions ever for practical use in the woods, and are perfect for trail work.

 

[slowp]

This photo is typical of a trail maintenance project I want to do. I've two main concerns, chainsaw binding and a log rolling on me and I'm seeking "been there, done that" practical advice. Where should I cut? Please use uphill/downhill and top/bottom so that I'll understand your directions. There's no snow, just this photo shows the basic tree/trail situation.

To date, all my chainsaw experience has been blocking dead-fall for firewood. That involves a tree lying on flat ground, 50-odd feet from my truck with 2 chainsaws and various tools to solve any problem. This project is more than a mile from the truck, lots of elevation gain and a weak back, so I won't be bringing the kitchen sink.

Thanks for any advice.

Hmmm, that is the same tree. Here is one with my late faithful Golden. Yup, how did it end up in Colorado?

View attachment 193391

 

[2dogs]

Well well well. The question is where did the dog go? I believe the OP moved the tree to Colorado but what did he do with Nanook? I think a chubacabra got him.

 

[Gologit]

Hmmm...I think maybe we've been had. He can have the damn tree but he better not keep that dog.

Think maybe a better description of his picture might have been in order? As in..."this is similar to a tree I want to cut".

Heck of a deal...SlowP takes a weekend off and somebody puts her tree back together, moves it to Colorado, and disappears a perfectly good dog.

 

[Joe46]

Does make one wonder doesn't it? It might just be me, but I think that log would be heavier to drag than a peavey:monkey:

 

[slowp]

Well well well. The question is where did the dog go? I believe the OP moved the tree to Colorado but what did he do with Nanook? I think a chubacabra got him.

Nanook, and that was only her name for that day, passed away a couple months later. As you see in the picture where I cut the log open, The Used Dog had arrived, and that was his first real job with me.

But there could be an exact copy the tree, trail and vegetation in Collyraddy, couldn't there?

 

[madhatte]

I smell a rat. Don't much care for bein' lied to.

 

[Philbert]

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I was pretty sure that I replied to this yesterday (same thread posted in a different forum?) but my words of wisdom appear to have been deleted. So I repeat myself. I also repeat myself.

+1 on all of the comments about not working alone.

I have worked on a few trail maintenance projects, and it is always nice to have a variety of tools – machete, Pulaski, axe, pole saw, tinber jack, wedges, bull rope, chainsaw tools, second chainsaw, etc. – along with your fuel, water, food, first aid kit, etc.

You did not state what kind of trail you will be working on (ATV, horseback, mountain bike, walking, ski, etc.), but I assume that it is not a wilderness area as you are using chainsaws. The type of trail suggests ways that you can carry your supplies (whatever you choose):

ATV is obvious. Used kiddie trailers (Craigs List) can be modified to carry stuff on many bike trails. Large wheel garden carts or wagons can be used on many horse and ski trails. Wheelbarrows work, but tend to get tippy when loaded up. In your photo you show snow – a heavy-duty plastic sled (type sold to hunters or ice fishermen) works in those conditons.

Having a cart is a good way to save your energy for the tree cutting work instead of for the schlepping of gear.

Philbert

 

[lfnh]

To OP:
"borrowing" someone else's photo without credit is a dead end with me.
post 11 -yup, that was a real gem.

The upside of the posts is down the road, someone else will find the advice given valuable and keep them outa trouble. Just my opinion.

 

[Bermie]

I also replied to this post when it was in another area...

TENSION and COMPRESSION...you NEED to learn what they are, and how they affect cutting decisions.
You replied with 'what do you mean' to one poster who said 'relieve tension as you cut' or words to that effect.
If you do NOT know what these forces are, you need to learn and practice BEFORE you go out, especially as it sounds like you intend to go alone. Ignorance can kill you.
Having a description in words off the internet is not a substitute for learning and experience. Go try it somewhere close to help before buggering of into the woods alone armed with nothing but a printout of this discussion.

Learn about, understand and be able to recognize where the forces of tension and compression may be distributed in any piece of timber you want to cut, it will affect your choice of cuts and the placement of them, especially with a lot of mass involved
Bring two saw, wedges, maul, rope
Bring a very good first aid kit and communication device
have an EMERGENCY PLAN

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Hmmm, that is the same tree. Here is one with my late faithful Golden. Yup, how did it end up in Colorado?

View attachment 193391

even the ice and snow take the same forms on the tree. to be fair the OP did say the photo was typical of a project he was gonna undertake. maybe not a rat but definitely an ingrate

 

[hammerlogging]

If you don't bring the kitchen sink, you'll get to go back for it. If you do bring it, you might not need it, but it sure beats going back for it.

I, and others, tote a kitchen sink around with us daily. Granted, its a small as possible, but RARELY do I have to make a trip back to the truck during the day, maybe once a year.

Today my axe head had loosened up too far, way too far. I was pounding one over in an SMZ and repeatedly had to drop the handle to slide the head back into position, and I couldn't really hit the wedges much or the head was likely to come on off--
cut a micro wedge and pounded it right in there, secure for the rest of the day. Not brilliant, not clarvoyant, nothing too remarkable, but it kept me going, without a trip to the truck where a new axe hadle awaits.

No, i didn't put the handle on tonight, I think the wedge is going to hold.

 

[r&r]

bring wedges something to drive them axes work good and an extra saw or at least an extra bar and chain.
Cut it off then use part of that log (or whatever one you actually will cut) to create a choke point to slow down them dang mountain bikers.
And watch out for that ladies dog.

 

[slowp]

bring wedges something to drive them axes work good and an extra saw or at least an extra bar and chain.
Cut it off then use part of that log (or whatever one you actually will cut) to create a choke point to slow down them dang mountain bikers.
And watch out for that guys dog.

I am not a guy. I know I was wishing for a peavy when I cut that tree out. Instead, I cut a big kerf, and pushed a lot.

 

[rwoods]

Not to highjack the thread, but let's go back to the peavy for a second. What's the point/spike for? I thought it was for loading logs, or for use with floating logs. I'm no logger - but my most used tool next to the saw is a cant hook with a three foot handle (was my dad's). I have the typical long handle one as well (I seem to use it more and more as I get older); I bought it over a peavy as I couldn't see any purpose in the spike for my firewood type work. I must be missing something. Ron

 

[Philbert]

. . . my most used tool next to the saw is a cant hook with a three foot handle (was my dad's). . . . ; I bought it over a peavy as I couldn't see any purpose in the spike for my firewood type work. I must be missing something.

Yeah, if you Google 'Cant Hook Versus Peavy' most of the threads take you back here to A.S!

The cant hook makes more sense to me for turning a log, with a right angle tooth that digs into the log, instead of the long point. Actually, I prefer the timber jack - basically a cant hook with a removable stand that lets you lift (some) logs off the ground for cutting, or can be used as a basic cant hook. Maybe we should be more positive and call it a Can hook?

But they seem to sell a lot of each kind, so there must be other opinions.

JMHO

Philbert

 

[slowp]

When the chunk is on the big side, I jam the point in and hook the hingie thing in and I can move a pretty good for me sized piece. I used the peavy to move a maple chunk up onto level ground. I had to jam pieces of split wood under it as I went to keep it from rolling down the hill. I really needed another body as the Used Dog refused to help. Some unoriginal language, and contortions got it done.

That's what I thought the pointy end was for.

 

[Philbert]

the Used Dog refused to help.

You need to get the used dog a harness and teach him the word 'HIKE!"

Philbert