Trailer questions......

[Wife'nHubby]

I'm thinking about upgrading my trailer in size & weight capacity. (Is this another form of addiction?) I'm running a 4'x6' trailer now. I'm thinking of going 4x8 or 5x8. 4x8 would be easier to store at home but then again I don't want to kick myself later for not getting a 5x8.

I would prefer an A-frame tongue and non-tilt.

My tow vehicle is rated at 5,000 lbs ('98 Olds Bravada) but it is not wired for electric trailer brakes nor does it have a tranny cooler, etc. Most of my hauling is within 20 miles of home and we don't have a lot of hills and valleys around here to worry about grade hauling. I've got a 2" Reese type factory(?) hitch rated at 6,000 lbs., right now with a 1-7/8 ball.

I'm thinking I want a 3,000 load cap. trailer, trailer weight 500 so that makes 3500 all together (GVW or whatever it's called). I have hauled around 3,000 with my current trailer and feel comfortable with that amount of weight behind me w/o electric brakes but being the woos that I am, I travel side roads (no freeways with a trailer load) and don't go over 45 mph with a load (Granny's drivin' here folks!)

So, at that point, what do you think of my plan so far?

Now, a detailed question: I found a 5x8, 3,500lb. used trailer. The guy is asking $650. He lives a couple hours north and we have agreed we could meet 1/2 in between for a sale - so, as far as traveling to get the trailer, that's not a big deal for me. The trailer is a 1993 model.

Now, here's a glitch: He's got the original specs for his trailer and it calls for 15" tires - but - he's got 14" car tires on it. As far as I'm concerned he can keep tires/rims and we will meet at a local farm store and swap out tires/rims before I drive it home. Hopefully he'd take a bit less $$ because he gets to keep existing tires/rims.

The only other glitch I can see, and I'm not sure exactly how an A-frame tongue is to be constructed, is that there is no 'center' support showing in the attached picture running from front frame to the hitch. Is there supposed to be a center support here? Also, his trailer is a tilt and I'm questioning how that tilt is constructed.

Tailgate on his is not to my liking so that would have to be changed and I'm thinking I'd raise the sides maybe 12-14" or so.

Here's a picture - any comments/observations greatly appreciated!

Shari

PS If I get this, it will be a slightly delayed 40+ wedding anniversary gift from me to me - does that justify the purchase?

 

[wampum]

I put new tires on my cargo trailer last year. It was actually just a little more to buy the tires and rims,so I bought tires and rims. I got them at the local farm store and I believe they were right around $120.00 each. I would suggest bias tires,they tend to pull better,while radials tend to last longer. Radials are better on long trips,bias are better on short trips,at least thats what I was told.In other words they both age the same,so when they are both say 10 years old (or less)they would start to check and crack. So the Radials may give you more miles,but age the same. The bias because of short trips last just as long and pull truer.I hope I explained that so you can understand what I am saying.

That A-frame should be Okay for what you want. But you could get a piece of channel cut and welded across the middle,for piece of mind.

As far as the tilt,by your picture it looks like you pull a pin to tilt(right behind the A frame in the middle. This should not bother the strength for what you say you are going to do with it. You could weld it solid,but the tilt makes it easier to load a mower or unload a load. Hope this helps.

As far as the 40th wedding,as long as both of you are happy go for it,but I do think it would be nice if you take the other half out for a nice dinner,and some nice flowers. Of course you could combine all three,get the trailer,go through the drive thru and pick some wild flowers on the way home.(the last sentence I am only kidding)

 

[les-or-more]

It seems like you would be getting close to the cost of a new trailer by the time you fix the things you don't like with that one. Are there any places that build trailers near you? You might want to check out their prices to have one built to your specs. if there are.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Yup - did that yesterday - 5x8 would be $1200.

Shari

 

[banshee67]

i would stay away from that one with the 14" tires and tilt

you can find 5x8/5x10 , 2990 gvwr (for registration purposes under 3000k here in nj) with 5 lug 15" tires/wheels, the a-frame tounge (with cross support&and no tilting) and the fold down expanded metal ramp, used on craigslist for $600-800 quite often
empty they weigh around 700-800 lbs, and can handle quite a bit more than the 2200lb claimed capacity

 

[shelbythedog]

This is a 5'x8' from Tractor Supply that belongs to my GF's grandfather. I have used it twice now, once for the load shown, which is around a cord of slabwood behind my 2500 Suburban. The trailer hauled it fine, there was plenty of suspension travel left on the springs. The other load I hauled which will apply to you better, was behind my GF's '98 Blazer. We had it full of pallets that were stacked to the height of the gate from front to back. I would guess that load weighed around 1500#. We went 100 miles down the freeway with that load, it towed straight and wasn't a burden to stop. That being said, I would be uncomfortable putting anything bigger/heavier than that load behind the Blazer, IMHO. But, I'm also spoiled to have both the 2500 Suburban and a F350 around for the big loads. Overall, I have been very impressed with this trailer. If you have any questions specific to the trailer like tire size, build material, exact dimensions, etc. let me know and I can help you out.

 

[danrclem]

The 5X8 sounds like a good size for your situation. I've got a 5X10 with a ramp gate on it that I really like. I use a dolly to get bigger rounds up on the trailer so I can save my back.

I'm sure that the trailer that you're looking at is sturdy enough but I'm like some of the others thinking that if you put 2 new tires and wheels on it that it would be too much money. I haven't priced trailers lately so my last statement might be wrong. If you haven't been looking very long it might be better to look a little more.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Regarding tire / rim prices: I checked that out today. Our local Farm & Fleet has 5 lug, 1720 lb. rated radial tires with rims for around $139 ea.

I just emailed the above seller back basically stating I going to hang out for a trailer with larger tires - and has trailer tires, not car tires. That car tire thing is my current issue as my current trailer has car tires.

Thanks for the replies, guys. Your info is what I trust and look forward to receiving.

Shari

 

[Guido Salvage]

My thoughts

My small open trailer is 5' x 10' and has a swing down gate at the back. At least in Virginia, any trailer that is titled for less than 3,000 pounds does not require any brakes (thus the 2995 GVW in the post above).

While I do haul some wood on my trailer, it is also used for a number of other things such as moving my horse drawn vehicles. I like the 10' length, mine has short rails but you can find them taller.
It is a 2007 model Shivers and I paid $825 for it at Agri Supply (similar to a TSC).

Here is a picture of it:

This is the saw carrying body I made for it:

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Considering I've only got 2 saws (and I suppose that electric one doesn't really count, right?) I don't think I'd need a 10' trailer - but you've got a great system going there!

Shari

 

[zogger]

truck axle trailers

Well built home made trailers are usually cheaper and use normal truck rims and tires (trailer is sometimes just a cut off pickup, or a frame with a truck rear end and springs on it), meaning five or ten bucks for rims used at the junkyard, and similar used but tread left tires, for higher load ratings. Also means if you are picky you can get by with carrying the same spare tire for your vehicle and your trailer.

Downside is no electric brakes, but you indicate what you want to haul that won't be necessary either, so that's a wash.

 

[Beefie]

Shari Keep looking the right trailer will come along. Have you looked at CHILTON brand trailers, very good design and made in Chilton WI.


Beefie

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Beefie,

Yup, I'm still looking. Here's one I'm going to look at tomorrow: 4x8, I think he said 17" tires (yikes), 3000 payload, electric brakes (do I really need them?) & a pintle hitch (um, I have no experience with a pintle hitch)-

On this one I assume I'd have to add at least one horizontal reinforcement bar around 3 sides, don't know if I like that rear ramp or not - plus, I have to check to how to set up my winch mount.

EDIT: Oh yeah, I'd also like a rack of some kind on the trailer to carry my 1200# capacity dolly on the trailer instead of inside my truck every time.

Shari

 

[Outlander]

You might want to look into used military trailers. They are very well built and usually sell cheap if you don't get in a hurry. I bought a 3/4 ton rated trailer from Government Surplus Auctions at Government Liquidation for $385. It has new 16" 10 ply pickup tires, sealed wiring and lights, surge brakes, side extensions and a tarp. It is the same size as a full size 8' pickup box. I have hauled well over 3000# on it with no problems.

 

[les-or-more]

Beefie,

Yup, I'm still looking. Here's one I'm going to look at tomorrow: 4x8, I think he said 17" tires (yikes), 3000 payload, electric brakes (do I really need them?) & a pintle hitch (um, I have no experience with a pintle hitch)-

On this one I assume I'd have to add at least one horizontal reinforcement bar around 3 sides, don't know if I like that rear ramp or not - plus, I have to check to how to set up my winch mount.

EDIT: Oh yeah, I'd also like a rack of some kind on the trailer to carry my 1200# capacity dolly on the trailer instead of inside my truck every time.

Shari

Should be able to convert the pintle to a standard coupler, if it has the standard 2 bolt adjustable channel.

 

[Beefie]

Beefie,

Yup, I'm still looking. Here's one I'm going to look at tomorrow: 4x8, I think he said 17" tires (yikes), 3000 payload, electric brakes (do I really need them?) & a pintle hitch (um, I have no experience with a pintle hitch)-

On this one I assume I'd have to add at least one horizontal reinforcement bar around 3 sides, don't know if I like that rear ramp or not - plus, I have to check to how to set up my winch mount.

EDIT: Oh yeah, I'd also like a rack of some kind on the trailer to carry my 1200# capacity dolly on the trailer instead of inside my truck every time.

Shari

From the picture , you can change out the pintle hitch to a regular ball hitch with just 2 bolts. It looks like 15"rims and bias ply tires to me. Also looks like a tubing built trailer, I am not a fan of these because of all the quality salt they use around here , they can rust from the inside out and not even show before it,s to late.

Beefie

 

[GeeVee]

I'd like to suggest the TSC or Home cheapo brand new trailer. Everyting would be new on it, and will do your bidding without modficiation.

The railings you think are not tall enough actually are. If you wanted, you could have plywood ready to slip into place to raise the height, or not use if you don't need. the lower rail height would make loading and unloading a lot easier.

Ultimately, especially with wet green wood, the rail height will moderate your desire to overload the trailer. You don't need e-brakes if you stick with a 5x8 like shelby showed you, and can get the ramp on it to for under 8-900 out the door, you will appreciate the new purchase and have it for a long time. The ramps gate does not have to go everywhere with you, will come off-on easy, but becasue you like dolly-ing rounds, you'll use it all the time.

The only mod i woud have someone make for you is to put a Harbour freight engine hoist on the front, and use it in combined with your winch (I haven't seen it).

I see your work ethic and recognize you work smarter not harder, and need to relaize value in every tool you buy.

Save a bit more money and get a new one like shelby's, you'll know what you have.... Iwll try and find a pic of a engine hoist.

 

[cnice_37]

Is this guy Obama's neighbor?? (see the white van)

Did you mention the price? It looks like a nice trailer and I'd probably keep the pintle hook but that shouldn't be a deal breaker.

 

[Intheswamp]

Beefie,

Yup, I'm still looking. Here's one I'm going to look at tomorrow: 4x8, I think he said 17" tires (yikes), 3000 payload, electric brakes (do I really need them?) & a pintle hitch (um, I have no experience with a pintle hitch)-

On this one I assume I'd have to add at least one horizontal reinforcement bar around 3 sides, don't know if I like that rear ramp or not - plus, I have to check to how to set up my winch mount.

EDIT: Oh yeah, I'd also like a rack of some kind on the trailer to carry my 1200# capacity dolly on the trailer instead of inside my truck every time.

Shari

Shari, I would definitely look into some of the tubing ends and support pieces, nuts & bolts, etc., for rust...use a strong flashlight to look down the tubes. The pintle hook is military, they make adapters for receivers (added cost). I *think* that pintle hooks are speed limited but I may be in error on that.

Bias or radial tires....what folks said about radials lasting longer than bias is correct. I normally try to run biases on my trailers due to their durability nature in regards to handling bruising better than radials. The inherent deflection (sag) of a radial's sidewall is a moving target for something to gouge into as you ride *past* it. Curbs, edges of cut-off rounds, sharp rocks, short stumps, highway debris, etc., can all nail that sidewall. When radial medium truck tires first came out loggers were very hesistant to move to them because of this sagging trait. The sidewalls of most any tire are very weak in regards to being cut resistant, they are probably the weakest link in a tire's construction. Going with a bias ply tire will cause the sidewalls to stand up straighter and greatly lessen the chance of something gouging into the sidewall.

I've seen very few utility trailer tires that have worn out...most dry-rot / weather-check on the trailer. Bias is my choice.

Best wishes,
Ed

 

[Intheswamp]

Oh yeah, if you go with a tilt trailer replace all three of the "tilt" bolts with an upgraded harder bolt. Be sure there are flat and lock washers on it and on the bolts that the bed tilts on run a second nut and lock washer up on it. Check them periodically. No, I didn't have a very close encounter with a 5x10 tilt, a 54" JD mower and a missing tilt bolt!!! :msp_scared:

Ed