Tree belt

[Bedford T]

i want to make a belt to ratchet around the trunk before i drop a tree, to keep ensure it does not split and kill me. I know i can wrap a chain but i would like to make an adjustable one that i can really tighten. I have some cable i can cut but am looking for ideas on how to complete it. does anyone do that type thing and use or have seen something similar that you might share a design or an idea?

thanks

 

[Philbert]

Buy a wide, heavy-duty strap used for securing loads on big trucks.

It will come with it's own ratchet mechanism to tension it.

Philbert

 

[ATH]

Proper cutting technique is your first "line of defense". A chain or ratchet strap is just a little extra insurance on those trick trees. It will not make up for bad technique - and I might argue they make it more dangerous giving you a false sense of security. Having said that, I agree with Philbert that an extra heavy duty ratchet strap should fit the bill. The little 1" ones at the hardware store are useless, they'll just provide extra shrapnel when the tree barber chairs. You want the big 4" wide ones rated for several thousand pounds.

 

[Bedford T]

Buy a wide, heavy-duty strap used for securing loads on big trucks.

It will come with it's own ratchet mechanism to tension it.

Philbert

I saw those and wondered about the web strength, they do have everything I seek. I saw the Japanese use them as a normal course of business and thought what a great safety tool. Theres had a buckle with a short chain and the belt was maybe 3/8" cable. They also use a 3 piece slat tool that folds into a triangle and the use it to fine tune their notch. It looks to be very effective. Google was no help on that gave me tons of ladders and such.

Between those two tools and using a good site plan chances would be high of no drama. The slat tool makes the fall very accurate. It can be verified visually by others so there are no notch mistakes. Not sure I need google to find them as 3 6ft slats with joints would nail it.

Thanks fellas

 

[Philbert]

. . .They also use a 3 piece slat tool that folds into a triangle and the use it to fine tune their notch. It looks to be very effective. . .

Can you sketch it?

I know that some fallers used to use 'gunning sticks', held in each corner of the notch, and joined at the other end, to sight where a tree would fall. Could not find a Google image of that either.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

OK - here are a couple of old photos of 'gunning sticks':



Basically, 2 sticks of the same length, hinged at the end would work.

Philbert

 

[Bedford T]

Oh my that's it. I think theirs included a third side. But that is excatly what I was talking about.
Thanks so much.

Wonder why they are seldom seen? I like any idea that gives me an edge with a tree.

 

[Philbert]

Makes sense for big timber and long distances (tall trees). But if the direction is that critical, I think that guys would use a rope to direct most trees today.

Philbert

 

[BC WetCoast]

Most saws today have sights moulded into the case. Put the bar along the notch and site along the line on the saw case. If you have to be so accurate as to avoid damage, it's time to climb it and piece it down.

 

[no tree to big]

Makes sense for big timber and long distances (tall trees). But if the direction is that critical, I think that guys would use a rope to direct most trees today.

Philbert

Once the tree starts to tip it's still the notch and hinge that controls where she falls. the rope is only going to get it to tip in the right general direction.

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[old guy]

Once the tree starts to tip it's still the notch and hinge that controls where she falls. the rope is only going to get it to tip in the right general direction.

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When I have a tree that absoloutly has to fall where I want it I don't cut it till it starts too tip, I cut till I can start pulling it down.
After pulling it far enough that it can't fall anywhere else I finish it with the saw.

 

[Philbert]

(I'll let old guy cut my 'critical trees').

Philbert

 

[no tree to big]

When I have a tree that absoloutly has to fall where I want it I don't cut it till it starts too tip, I cut till I can start pulling it down.
After pulling it far enough that it can't fall anywhere else I finish it with the saw.

So you leave a fat hinge pull like hell hope it don't chair and the hinge don't break? Interesting. But your notch and hinge still control where it goes...

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[Bedford T]

The belt I mention eliminates the split gamble. It would give you plenty of time to gtho

 

[old guy]

So you leave a fat hinge pull like hell hope it don't chair and the hinge don't break? Interesting. But your notch and hinge still control where it goes...

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Of coarse the notch & hinge control where it goes and I really don't care if it chairs, I'm on the comealong 100 ft away.
In 50 years of firewood cutting & taking down dead trees for people, (lots of elm disease) & 3 years cutting railroad tie logs I never had much problem with barberchairs except in 15- 20 below 0 weather.

 

[Philbert]

I've seen them 'chair'. Nothing wrong with being careful.

Philbert

 

[old guy]

Yeah, I've seen em too, at 20 below you can just get the back cut in 3'' on a leaner red oak and ''pow'' it blows up the middle and breaks off 10' up ruining the log and hanging up there, safest way to get them down is the tractor & chain.
There are many different cicumstances that call for different handleing, if you think a tree is gonna chair you sure as hell don't stand behind it.

 

[Philbert]

Bore cut.

Philbert

 

[ATH]

The belt I mention eliminates the split gamble. It would give you plenty of time to gtho

Proper cutting technique eliminates the split gamble as well...

 

[old guy]

Bore cut.

Philbert

But you can't do that when you need a controled pull 30 degrees from the lean to keep it off your neighbors fence