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Originally posted by MasterBlaster
I would severely injury the individual who tried to separate me from my Gibbs/lanyard combo.

:angel:


Di-do. But I think that I would fire up the good ole MS200T (natually, at my side) and remove the limb that tried to get at it:D.


Carl
 
Pardon the attitudy response, but do you guys actually prefer to limit your options?

love
nick
 
I'll agree that learning how to bridge with the tail and tie a Blakes, Open Prussik/Tautline is worthwhile but what the thunder are you monkeys talking about-"drop his tress cord out of the tree". For pity's sake guys, haven't you figured out that you can tie the bloomin' thing before you start up the tree? :rolleyes:
 
Stumper, Guess it depends how the ascent is backed up. If he footlocks he'll need to tie in. If he is being belayed he'll need to tie it. etc....
 
If he is a new climber, one saddle, one rope, and a biner or 2.

Fewer moving parts the better.

I have trained new climbers, and the more advanced stuff just hurts their face and has them messing with stuff they don't need to mess with.

They don't need the ease of redirect. It teaches the importance of a high TIP and efficient work plan. Retieing for a redirect teaches knot tying in the tree with your eyes closed. Retying takes longer time to redirect with more attention to knot tying so hopefully they will be more apt to flip in while redirecting. Guys I have seen starting w/a split tail seem to get lazy and just redirect "real quick" w/out flippin' in. :angry:

I think these lessons far exceed speed in climbing because they increase speed in SAFE WORKING. We are not their to climb, rather to work, work safe, work efficiently$$.

I can't even remember if he is a new climber. I just started ranting....... :rolleyes:

Stay safe!!
 
Most of my ascents are secured free climbs. I tie the hitch before I start up so that I can alternate between my lanyard and my climbing line flipping in and out as I move up -ALWAYS secured. If it isn't a secured free climbing ascent then it will be a DdRT ascent with a Pantin so I still tie my hitch first. I'll grant that SRT ascents could require a tie in for switching systems in the tree. I guess footlocking a doubled line would also-I've never done it-remember I'm somewhere between a Dinosaur and a Tree climbing chicken. I agree that knowing how to tie a hitch with your rope's tail is important but dropping my tress cord out of the tree is a complete non-issue for me.:)
 
Friction Saver

Should I get any kind of friction saver device? The hose or the rings? Thanks.
 
I'm in favor of the rings myself, but I still think you should start out with as few pieces in your system as possible.

Unless your like Nick and came to trees from rock climbing for a lack of rocks to climb.
 
split tails

when i learnt to climb we climbed with spliced eyes and a split tail / prussic loop. we had to prove that we could tie a climbing system in front of us and behind our backs before we left the classroom (with all the background info lecture) never mind touched a tree. then we climbed on prussics and blakes hitches.

my instructor insisted that tying the knots behind your back made you think about what you were tying and made sure we knew it.....so that in an emergancy we would be running on instinct not a guess...

id say get the split tail / prussic loop, but tie in with the traditional system often, know your knots.....

get the tree climbers companion, just got mine and it has recapped what i was taught and a bit more info.....more books on aspects of tree care should be written by the same author....good descriptive style and good driagrams

jamie
 
If you go with a split tail / tress system, make sure you get a spliced eye climbing rope....
I know Big Jon almost always ties his friction hitch on the ground, then footlocks up (single line usually) and then pulls up the friction hitch. I usually tie mine in the tree.
 
Throw line

Stepping to the bottom of your list: The throw line you're looking at, Zing-it, is excellent stuff. I think the bags are probably on the heavy side, though. All the weight really needs to do is lift the line and get it back to the ground. Zing-it is so light and slippery that I find 10 oz. to be plenty. I qualify as an oldtimer in my office, and have reached a point where chucking a throw line is one of my favorite parts of the job. I think learning to throw it with confidence and accuracy might be a terrific goal for someone on the thin end of the learning curve. There's nothing like hitting and setting your line in a sweet fork to start a climb off right!
 
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