Tree Felling Direction Of Falling Question ?

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these spots should look familiar owl.
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If Owl's right and this is back-side of Mill Creek, those bigguns there may be part of that stand I was telling you about. If this pic is faced about NW, and the gate is about 1/2 mile to the right, you'll find my orange diamond markers starting about 1/2 mile due west. The real big stuff is over the hill and about mid-slope, as I recall.
 
Its funny how a thread can turn. Great pics guys!


Bob- that's always my hope with sharing my experience in these kinds of threads. Maybe get to one of them that will take it and won't argue back.

Waiting out some thunder bangers this morn. I'll work in anything, wind, rain, and snow. 100 degrees to 30 below. The ####iest #### mother nature can throw. I draw the line at lightning though.
 
It takes 2.5 hours in Montana just to get from nowhere to the middle of nowhere

That's funny. Where I live, we say everything is 2 hours away....

Must be nice. Although the population isn't much here and this is a big county for Tennessee, you can't hardly find solitute. Believe it or not, it was easier to get away from people where I grew up in Florida in a county with 5 times the population. If you can't tell, I am a tad envious of you two. Ron
 
All the how-to felling sites say the front cut, which defines the direction one wants the tree to fall, should be no more than 30 % of the tree diameter deep.
that's wrong.. completely wrong.. where did you get that from? Just goes to show how out of touch with reality this industry is.
 
Hello,

Retired Engineer, and I guess I have thought about the following a bit, and realize I don't understand what happens.

Would like to, so thought I'd post here, and if I appear really dumb, I apologize. Still, asking questions is always the best way to learn.

Have a chainsaw, used mainly for small limbs and brush.
Have never taken down a tree, but was wondering:

Let's say that the tree is assumed for this discussion to be a perfect uniform cylinder.
If so, the weight (vector) then can be considered to go right down the center.
No problem here.

All the how-to felling sites say the front cut, which defines the direction one wants the tree to fall, should be no more than 30 % of the tree diameter deep.

So, the weight vector, being at 50 % of the diameter is then to the rear of this cut.

Then the Back-Cut is made.

Even leaving an inch or two for the "hinge," it seems that the weight vector would still definitely be to the rear of the Hinge.

(it would have to go the 70 % of the diameter forward to meet up with front cut, minus the hinge thickness)

And, thus, the tendency of the tree would be to rotate Backwards, not to the front as desired.
True ? Assume No wedges or ropes to help determine the direction of falling.

This would appear to be true even though there is a large wedge taken out from the front, and just a narrow sawblade width Back-Cut ?

I have no doubt that I am wrong, but what am I missing, please in thinking about this ?

I've looked at a zillion videos and on-line diagrams, but none seem to explain this at all.

Is it that the tree cuts are ALWAYS made to have the tree fall in the direction of its normal leaning ?

And if a different fall direction is required, then one uses wedges, ropes, or some of those other "fancy and technical" cutting techniques ?

Thanks,
Bob
You'll felling cuts scarf step hight hinge wing cuts or not depend on what type of tree , Douglas fir and gums are bottom heavy with little weight in top so scarf size hinge width wind and wedges where most pines have weight in crown with branches heavy on sunny side, a dead spar can take a bigger scarf as it has no weight and you don't won't to wedge incase you rattle the cotton top, very really do we fell a pole.
 

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