Tree felling jacks

[Hermio]

Lately I have been seeing ads for these. Supposedly they work better than wedges and may eliminate the need for pulleys or winches to make a tree fall in a direction other thana its natural lean. But some reviews I have seen say the TimberTuff models are built flimsy. Anyone use such jacks by any manufacturer? Do they work? Do they break?

 

[northmanlogging]

Lately I have been seeing ads for these. Supposedly they work better than wedges and may eliminate the need for pulleys or winches to make a tree fall in a direction other thana its natural lean. But some reviews I have seen say the TimberTuff models are built flimsy. Anyone use such jacks by any manufacturer? Do they work? Do they break?

I've used hardware store jacks, 20ton or better (mine are 25 ton) with an additional plate on the ram end so they don't just sink into the wood.
tough to say they work better then wedges, they are less work overall when you have a massive tree you need to lift, and its easier to pump the handle rather then swing an axe or hammer at wedges, but they ain't miracle machines, you will still need pull ropes for the hard leaners
As for build quality the old Silvey's are probably the best if you can find a good set, Borntraeger being the best for current production, never heard of TimberTuff, but if they have a reputation as being flimsy, avoid them...
Also, always back up a jack with wedges, regardless of quality, its not a matter of if they fail, but when they will fail.

 

[Hermio]

I've used hardware store jacks, 20ton or better (mine are 25 ton) with an additional plate on the ram end so they don't just sink into the wood.
tough to say they work better then wedges, they are less work overall when you have a massive tree you need to lift, and its easier to pump the handle rather then swing an axe or hammer at wedges, but they ain't miracle machines, you will still need pull ropes for the hard leaners
As for build quality the old Silvey's are probably the best if you can find a good set, Borntraeger being the best for current production, never heard of TimberTuff, but if they have a reputation as being flimsy, avoid them...
Also, always back up a jack with wedges, regardless of quality, its not a matter of if they fail, but when they will fail.

I am not talking about that kind of jack. I am talking about one that is about 4-5 feet long and wedges into the tree and ground at a 45 degree angle, then telescopes up by cranking a handle.

 

[northmanlogging]

I am not talking about that kind of jack. I am talking about one that is about 4-5 feet long and wedges into the tree and ground at a 45 degree angle, then telescopes up by cranking a handle.

Ah, yeah no those are garbage, and to be avoided

 

[stihl sawing]

Ah, yeah no those are garbage, and to be avoided

You ain't wrong about that, them things are junk

 

[Hermio]

You ain't wrong about that, them things are junk

Seems like a lot of Nordic people use them, even on good-sized trees. My thought was to use them on trees too small to use wedges for, and yet in need of felling in a direction other than the lean.

 

[Gologit]

Seems like a lot of Nordic people use them, even on good-sized trees. My thought was to use them on trees too small to use wedges for, and yet in need of felling in a direction other than the lean.

Get one. Try it out. Let us know how it works out for you.

 

[SimonHS]

Tree jack example, on relatively small diameter softwood trees.

 

[Hermio]

Get one. Try it out. Let us know how it works out for you.

The price on a good one scares me a bit. They run $900 and up. The TimberTuff ones are much cheaper but look flimsy and are not in stock. I wonder if they have been discontinued.

 

[Hermio]

Tree jack example, on relatively small diameter softwood trees.

That sort of thing is why I got interested in one.

 

[dboyd351]

He certainly makes it look effiicient, but those aren't exactly monster trees.
Not so sure that jack would handle anything large.

 

[Hermio]

He certainly makes it look effiicient, but those aren't exactly monster trees.
Not so sure that jack would handle anything large.

Some of them are rated to push with a force of more than 5000 lb. But my use would be for trees too small for using wedges.

 

[J D]

Those trees were wanting to go the way they went anyways.
The principal is good but I'd be reluctant to use it on anything big or with a significant back lean & I can't think of many situations you couldn't do without it given a good rope & some wedges

 

[Hermio]

Those trees were wanting to go the way they went anyways.
The principal is good but I'd be reluctant to use it on anything big or with a significant back lean & I can't think of many situations you couldn't do without it given a good rope & some wedges

I have some leaners that are near buildings or my camper. They are 6-8" in diameter and would naturally fall where I don't want them to. Way too small to use wedges! I may end up using the rope method, but I normally have to work alone. I think 2 people would be needed for the rope method.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

I have some leaners that are near buildings or my camper. They are 6-8" in diameter and would naturally fall where I don't want them to. Way too small to use wedges! I may end up using the rope method, but I normally have to work alone. I think 2 people would be needed for the rope method.

On a 6 to 8" tree, wedges can still be used. Just make your notch, bore through the center of the notch to the back, and then set your wedge. Make two back cuts on either side of the slot, and then pound your wedge.

 

[Hermio]

On a 6 to 8" tree, wedges can still be used. Just make your notch, bore through the center of the notch to the back, and then set your wedge. Make two back cuts on either side of the slot, and then pound your wedge.

Thanks. Would that work with a tree that leans about 20 degrees in the wrong direction but also has a very cured top, such that the center of gravity of the crown is probably 8-10 feet out from the trunk, about 60 degrees off of where I want to drop it?

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Thanks. Would that work with a tree that leans about 20 degrees in the wrong direction but also has a very cured top, such that the center of gravity of the crown is probably 8-10 feet out from the trunk, about 60 degrees off of where I want to drop it?

No, and neither will a jack. At that point, get a throwball and a rope.

 

[oldbuzzard]

On a 6 to 8" tree, wedges can still be used. Just make your notch, bore through the center of the notch to the back, and then set your wedge. Make two back cuts on either side of the slot, and then pound your wedge.

Question on this technique maybe you can help with? I’m a volunteer sawyer working in Colorado. We do lots of fuel mitigation work clearing Ponderosas and Lodge Pole Pines in this size range. Typically they are dead from fire or beetle kill. I can do the face cut, then the plunge cut, insert wedge, and notch the sides. All good so far, but when I drive the wedge it frequently just cause the hinge wood to snap and the tree, with no hinge wood control, then just falls where ever it wants. Any suggestions?

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Question on this technique maybe you can help with? I’m a volunteer sawyer working in Colorado. We do lots of fuel mitigation work clearing Ponderosas and Lodge Pole Pines in this size range. Typically they are dead from fire or beetle kill. I can do the face cut, then the plunge cut, insert wedge, and notch the sides. All good so far, but when I drive the wedge it frequently just cause the hinge wood to snap and the tree, with no hinge wood control, then just falls where ever it wants. Any suggestions?

Not really, that's always going to be a problem with dead wood.