Tree Fertilization

[M.Green - SVTS]

I've never done that before. I've been told how to do it, have never seen it done. Don't even know what to use for product. All I know is you take a sturdy rod and start poking holes in the ground at the edge of the spread. you spiral in until you get to the trunk. and then you put your fertilizer in.

Can anyone tell me the correct procedure in detail and also tell me what the fertilizer is and where I can buy it and the tools necessary to provide this service to my clients.

Thanks

 

[BC WetCoast]

You need to decide whether you are going to use a granular or liquid injectible fertilizer. The injectibles (where the fertilizer is usually dissolved in water) require the use of a pump and injecting needle, but the fert is below grass level.

Have a look at the Sherrill cataloge (click the logo above) to get a feel for some of the products available.

Many on this site will recommend that you do soil testing prior to fertilziing, although this will depend on climate and soil conditions. I know that my area, with a coarse granular soil and significant yearly rainfall will always be nitrogen deficient. Once you know your area (soils, climate, growth characteristics), you will get a feel for whether individuals need the boost.

When deciding on which fertilizers to use, check the salt content as this can affect how often you apply.

 

[Bermie]

I think you need to do a lot more study and research YOURSELF before deciding to offer this as a service. If you don't fully understand all the nuances you could end up doing more harm than good.
A few lines over an internet forum is not going to give you the depth of knowledge you need.

Good luck...the learning curve never levels off...

 

[TreeTopKid]

Just like Bermie says, there's variables galore, and you need to perhaps put some time in with someone who has experience and learn from them first.

There are books available through the ISA about soil/soil plant relations. The soil is your best starting place from an educational stand point.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

My big problem with doing fert work is that most companies just inject an NPK "balanced" product into the soil. Or in your anecdote, pore dry into a hole.

There is a sufficient number of peer reviewed studies out there that show that elevated soil nitrogen will increase pathogenic activities in woody plants.

There are some small scale studies, done recently, that show that increasing the organic component of depleted native soil can improve the health of woody plants.

So a top-dress of compost in the CRZ seems to be better than fert.

To address your particular anecdote, driving a rod, or using a soil augger will often glaze the application hole, causing compaction problems over time. This is especially true in heavy clay soils.

 

[limbwalker54]

I have a question.

Before you jump into fertilization, are you qualified to decide what the tree needs? Have you an understanding of tree biology, and the stresses and diseases that affect their growth?

I am asking this because the motto on your website seems to be more geared toward a removal service rather than a tree care company.

Also, what is up with the picture on the right side of the main page?

 

[md_tree_dood]

To my knowledge you have to do a soil sample in many areas due to department of Ag, check your localities laws first.

As far as equipment goes if you are using the liquid mixture you're going to need a tank with agitation since the fertilizer will settle because its a suspended solid. Also remember, suspended solids are notoriously hard on equipment so you have to plan in some heavy wear on your pump and all plumbing.

When actually applying fertilizer, you need to figure out the flow rate of your pump and then adjusting your count and grid pattern to what ever tree you are doing. This will need to be calculated the first time you get the product and you mate it to your pump and then gradually on site to figure out your flow rate at whatever pressure you are using.


Granular is great stuff but is worthless if you're dealing with trees surrounded by turf as the turf will eat up 70-80 percent of the product.

Still want to get into fertilization?

 

[Rickytree]

M. Green I'd start with maybe getting some pic's on your website.

 

[epicklein22]

I did tree fertilizing for my work last spring. It sucked and is sooo boring. I pumped about 600 gallons in a day, refilling once and driving all over the place. We use a spring formulated mix (a little bit diluted than recommended on the bag). I do know it works, as we have tons of business and almost all of it is repeat customers. I believe we fert. every 2 years or rotate spring and fall each year, but don't quote me on that.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I do know it works, as we have tons of business and almost all of it is repeat customers.

That depends on what you consider working, if it is inducing a flush of succulent growth that is more susceptible to pest problems....

What is in "the bag"?

Granular is great stuff but is worthless if you're dealing with trees surrounded by turf as the turf will eat up 70-80 percent of the product.

Which is a good thing if it is just an NPK product, most in the industry put way too much N down on trees. This is especially true with trees that already have disease problems.

Also, what is up with the picture on the right side of the main page?

If you go into the file title you will see it is storm work. The picture could use a title.

 

[hokiewheeler]

Tree fertilizing is controversial. Fertilizing pushes growth and can increase pest problems, because you feed the plant, you feed everything. If you offer fert, you need to offer pest control too. The thing is though, most trees in the landscape are deficient in micronutrients, especially manganese (according to OSU and Penn State research). To fertilize properly you need to soil test and tissue test. Granted, tree fert has kept me employed in the past, and it doesn't seem to hurt mature trees, but it's debatable if it helps or not.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I advocate the use of organic (as opposed to petro-chem, though I know oil is organic) products that are low N. The top-dress i mentioned above, and I really like the seaweed "reduction" called Pan-A-Sea' made by Emerald Isles.

Anything with a broad spectrum of minor and micro nutrients that depleted urban soils are lacking.

IMO, when you take this rout, doing foliar and soil analysis is a waste of time and money. Sometimes the quick-fix, low budget solution is the best for a client; e.g. sulfuric acid in bore holes to treat chlorosis.

My big problem with most fert programs is that it is a carry-over from agronomics and rotational crop science. Boost the yield on annual crops by pumping up the N and loading it down with pesticides took no account on how the plants protective systems reacted. There are some few studies with orchards, but it is all on crop yield where pesticides were already in regular use.

One interesting study I read years ago was an old one for viticulture where higher N did cause more problems in the long term.

 

[TreeTopKid]

Tree fertilizing is controversial. Fertilizing pushes growth and can increase pest problems, because you feed the plant, you feed everything. If you offer fert, you need to offer pest control too. The thing is though, most trees in the landscape are deficient in micronutrients, especially manganese (according to OSU and Penn State research). To fertilize properly you need to soil test and tissue test. Granted, tree fert has kept me employed in the past, and it doesn't seem to hurt mature trees, but it's debatable if it helps or not.

Worth noting also that he must follow his state procedures for the procurement of a certified applicator license also.

 

[S Mc]

I agree JPS in that many of our recommendations for fertilizing and pest control have crossed over from the ag community, which, by the way, has apparently no regard for a healthy environment only fast results.

An annual crop that you are "pushing" for maximum growth in a short time frame is a far cry from a long-lived, woody perennial. Educate yourself (as already recommended) so that you can educate your clients for the specific needs of the variety of species you are dealing with.

A far better approach with trees is as JPS recommended, and is what we recommend and do ourselves, organic mulch in the CRZ for slow decomposition and replacement of necessary nutrients. This is not only good for the tree but creates the healthy soil so necessary on many levels. In fact, pumping the ground full of fertilizers and then pesticides is disturbing and/or destroying so much more than people are willing to acknowledge.

If your bottom line is "how can I make as much money off people as possible", well, I won't say what I think of that.

Sylvia

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

A far better approach with trees is as JPS recommended, and is what we recommend and do ourselves, organic mulch in the CRZ for slow decomposition and replacement of necessary nutrients. This is not only good for the tree but creates the healthy soil so necessary on many levels. In fact, pumping the ground full of fertilizers and then pesticides is disturbing and/or destroying so much more than people are willing to acknowledge.

What formula do you use for CRZ?

 

[S Mc]

What formula do you use for CRZ?

We use the tried and true formula of CRZ = CTFM

"Critizal root zone" = "Client's tolerance for Mulch"

Actually, I'm not trying to be facetious; just realistic. We try our best to educate the client in the actuality of where their tree's roots are...2 to 3 times further out than the spread of the crown. Many are astonished...and not a little dismayed. But then realize this explains the trespass of their neighbor's tree's roots in their yard.

Ideally, we like to see the mulch at least out to the dripline, sometimes there is an area that can be made into a tree island. Sometimes not, we go with what we can get.

We find more and more people are coming around to 1) the benefits, 2) the lower maintenance, 3) the lack of conflict between turf and trees, and 4) realizing this actually looks good also.


Sylvia

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I like that "CTFM"!

Been there.

I will do the topdress only, I've even talked people into buying humic soil vs. mulching "properly"