Tree trunk both hollow and split: I need help!

[NebClimber]

I am removing a cottonwood, 40" dbh, that was hit by lighting. The trunk is both hollow and split.

I will bind it together with a chain and load binder. But how do I make the felling cut?

Some authorities say to make a face cut, then - instead of making a normal back cut - make a plunge cut up to just behind and above the apex of the face cut. Then finish with a back cut.

Thoughts?

 

[MasterBlaster]

 

[MasterBlaster]

Take a lookey here, mah man.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12776

 

[Tom Dunlap]

How is the face cut going to intersect the crack? Will the crack be in the face-wood or behind the hinge?

CAn you chunk it down safer?

Tom

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Full Dis-Claimer.......

Is it so rotted/split, that it would be easier to split more and take individual verticals?

i must agree with Rocky; and add more tension can be gotten on the straps, by tightening, holding tape to the tree, emptying/almost emptying spool, then tightening again; but for positive grip, should finish with with about 2 wraps. A full spool on a ratchet strap, come a long, or wench will have much less pull through less leverage (higher speed of intake of line though). The empty spool/first layer has more leverage, tightens more, especially as a finish; but crushing spar to crumble is not good either. Any tipe of capstan: on boat, capstan wench (saw driven), GRCS etc.; has a spool that doesn't load past 1 layer of turns,thus no leverage lost, and theoretically can have an endless drawing range, for the line feeds off the end. i'd think the ratchets are easier to release if the face upward after felling, maybe tipped to side a bit.

2x4's can soemtimes help bound under straps; but there strength is nothing campared to a lot of wood in a normal trunk; best to think of as spreading out more firming of spar between straps, pushing crack closed. Wedges started under straps before tightening, then pounded after can give more tightening, especially to pinch down on 2x4, mid span (between straps of 2x4 can be tensioned with custom wood wedge. Sometimes wedge/block of wood under 2x4 to fit trunk deformity, and carry compression to spar more directly.

Failing that perhaps a running bowline low, with a 2half hitch chokes around the trunk, placing bowline and hitches at key areas to 'firm' on way up. Any pull forward, also tightens/firms. This is prolly for more solid but cracked, truck pulls. Another is a wider legged Z rig (pulley to spar and not back to line)pulled by truck, with tail hitch and pulley positions placed to also compress as pulled forward. These are riskier options, iam more making points on forces, in this paragraph than specific recomendations to present project; as ye might be playing with the devil; and might walk myself from it, so hesitate to make these herte suggestions so blindly.

Need to make some kind of face, or premade one(hole/partial), that doesn't impede the tree from coming forward, everything must work easy, no big pulls, no shocks, no chocks (impediments to 'rolling' forward) Calculate even pulls in like wood (consider wood condition in hinge area on each side of face)at what is left in the sides, for best chance of laying balanced load forward evenly. Off balance spar would require correction.

Or something like that......
:alien:

 

[SilverBlue]

Gentlemen place your bets…

Here is a large ash 100' or so tall with a 7 ft crack 25' above ground. lots of weight up high, customer is thinking about having it removed, place your bets on how long she stands.

 

[MasterBlaster]

So, ya gotta handle on this?:alien:

 

[Stumper]

I'll bet 50 bucks that it stands until it falls or is cut down. Do you want to go ahead and send me your money?

 

[NebClimber]

My tree looks just like the split Ash that Silverblue posted, except my split starts from the base of the tunk. The trunk is about 10 feet tall. Another exception: the split in my cottonwood closes up again at the top of the trunk where the two main stems emerge.

Steven

 

[Gypo Logger]

Chances are that those double stem Ash trees have been slapping bellys for a long time and will for sometime to come, so if they must be felled treat them as two seperate trees. If they are to be saved, use guy wires in the crown to commit them together.
It's nothing but a judgement call.
John

 

[SilverBlue]

Good point John, it’s hard diagnose the severity from one picture and unfortunately the video did not come out good, however there’s no way to reduce the heavy top load without toping the tree and cabling is no longer an option. It’s only a matter of time before this one goes down.
Justin your 50 Canuck bucks are in the mail

 

[Husky288XP]

I would try to sell the customer some cable and bracing, if they do not want to remove the tree.

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Bracing, yeah, put a bolt or two through the split.

 

[NebClimber]

The cottonwood is down.

In addition to the chain and load binder I added two load straps, as advised on this forurm.

The tree actually DID split out further as I was removing one of the two main stems. The straps/chains held it together, however.

Thanks for the help, especially MB for linking me to the thread that showed me the way.

See MB, this thread wasn't worthless after all.

Thanks again.

Steven

 

[MasterBlaster]

Hey bro, I didn't mean the thread wuz worthless. I just meant that a pic woulda been helpful!