Tri- Flow spray lubricant

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C George

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Has anyone ever tried tryd this
in fuel ?
I spray maybe an oz in a saw that
would barely run last week and then after running for 5 min , let it sit over night. It really
smartened up the running big time. The stuff smells horrible when burned and
smokes like hell but it seems to do wonders on cleaning the carb jets
 

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Just for clarification: did you spray it in the carb as a primer or into tank of fuel as am additive ? If carb -did you start it right away? I assume additive if it runs through the jets.
I keep Tri Flow around for electric motor bearings like the cheap fans and bushing bearing motors .Most spray lubes like WD40, Blaster, CR tend to seize (dry out) instead of lube the bearing. I Do use it for lots of other STUFF . a bottle for air tools or marvel mystery oil.
 
Just dumb enough to try it ,,, Ive used it in many a trimmer or chainsaw and it really smartened up the running of the unit. Id say a safer additive than seafoam in a 2 stroke
 
Just for clarification: did you spray it in the carb as a primer or into tank of fuel as am additive ? If carb -did you start it right away? I assume additive if it runs through the jets.
I keep Tri Flow around for electric motor bearings like the cheap fans and bushing bearing motors .Most spray lubes like WD40, Blaster, CR tend to seize (dry out) instead of lube the bearing. I Do use it for lots of other STUFF . a bottle for air tools or marvel mystery oil.
Sprayed roughly 1 oz into the fuel tank and ran it to get into the fuel system .
 
We had it in the shop as an all purpose lube and I decided to try it in fuel one day
 
Just for clarification: did you spray it in the carb as a primer or into tank of fuel as am additive ? If carb -did you start it right away? I assume additive if it runs through the jets.
I keep Tri Flow around for electric motor bearings like the cheap fans and bushing bearing motors .Most spray lubes like WD40, Blaster, CR tend to seize (dry out) instead of lube the bearing. I Do use it for lots of other STUFF . a bottle for air tools or marvel mystery oil.
id use in air tools !! I dont even sell this stuff
 
Sprayed roughly 1 oz into the fuel tank and ran it to get into the fuel system .
Next question: I have a few Jonsereds that sat for a year or 2 and I drained the Old gas out the mix had good color and the odor wasn't terribly old. Fresh gas in tank and they started but ran like the H needle was partly clogged. When I shelved them the carbs had fairly fresh (OEM) kits. Do you think your saw had a varnish residue issue like what I believe is affecting my saws? I planned on letting them set a day to see if fresh mix would resolve the issue -It didn't-
 
Next question: I have a few Jonsereds that sat for a year or 2 and I drained the Old gas out the mix had good color and the odor wasn't terribly old. Fresh gas in tank and they started but ran like the H needle was partly clogged. When I shelved them the carbs had fairly fresh (OEM) kits. Do you think your saw had a varnish residue issue like what I believe is affecting my saws? I planned on letting them set a day to see if fresh mix would resolve the issue -It didn't-
Try it ,,, what you
got to loose ? I dont think fresh
new gas is enough to dissolve
gum / varnish. Most pump gas is such junk but our cars pump it thru the injectors wo a problem
 
VPs Fix-it-Fuel. Has worked for me. It is comprised of VPs non oxy 94 octane fuel, two stroke oil and Mechanic in a Bottle. Get it into the fuel system including the carb. Let it work overnight and then give the machine a try.
 
take the air filter off, start the saw then rev it up and choke it down with a rag with at wide open throttle, it might help pull the trash out of the H circuit.
wd40 is a water displacer used to dry wet components then evaporate, blaster/cr are penetrating oils designed to run out. You need something with dissolved wax or lithium in it so it bonds or melts into the bushings. multiviscosity spray gel or lucas red and tacky spray preferably used after warmed up, spray again before shut down.
 
take the air filter off, start the saw then rev it up and choke it down with a rag with at wide open throttle, it might help pull the trash out of the H circuit.
wd40 is a water displacer used to dry wet components then evaporate, blaster/cr are penetrating oils designed to run out. You need something with dissolved wax or lithium in it so it bonds or melts into the bushings. multiviscosity spray gel or lucas red and tacky spray preferably used after warmed up, spray again before shut down.
Now thats funny
 
Has anyone ever tried tryd this
in fuel ?
I spray maybe an oz in a saw that
would barely run last week and then after running for 5 min , let it sit over night. It really
smartened up the running big time. The stuff smells horrible when burned and
smokes like hell but it seems to do wonders on cleaning the carb jets
Triflow contains Teflon as the primary lubricant. Burning Teflon produces highly toxic gasses that are 10X worse than phosgene! Here is some food for thought...

https://www.fluoridealert.org/wp-content/pesticides/teflon.effects.lung.htm
I don't think that I would be burning any in any of my engines.
 
Triflow contains Teflon as the primary lubricant. Burning Teflon produces highly toxic gasses that are 10X worse than phosgene! Here is some food for thought...

https://www.fluoridealert.org/wp-content/pesticides/teflon.effects.lung.htm
I don't think that I would be burning any in any of my engines.
I've worked with phosgene, pure phosgene, used in chemistry . It's a liquid that has a boiling point of 6.5 oC. We only handled it in a well ventilated fume hood as a liquid cooled in a dry ice/ethanol bath , -78 oC.

I've never smelled it, but they say a wiff can kill you.

It is carbonyl dichloride ( Cl-(C=O)-Cl ).

I suspect burning fluorocarbons makes the fluorine analog F-(C=O)-F. You certainly don't want to breathe that.
 
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