TriTech Cut-Resistant Flipline Lanyards

[freeweight]

Sterling’s 11 mm (7/16") TriTech is designed with an abrasion-resistant Technora sheath, high-strength and cut-resistant Dyneema inner jacket, and a pliable nylon core. The TriTech lanyard is strong and rugged, yet still supple enough to move and position easily. As a rope alternative to a wire-core line, TriTech offers the most cut resistance with non-conductive properties. Aluminum snap - Sewn eye - Folded & stitched tail.


would A Mechanical adjuster be better suited for this instead of distel and m-pulley?

 

[imagineero]

You can still use a hitch if you like - it's just rope after all. All the guys doing close approach tree trimming in aus have to use rope lanyards instead of steel core because of supposed electrical risk. But they still use steel spikes etc... I don't really see that a rope flip reduces the electrical hazzard over steel core, especially around HV.

In terms of cut resistance, the rope may have something over the steel core. I've had a go at cutting my old steel core fliplines and was pretty unimpressed by how easily you can cut right through one with a sharp chain. Rope is kind of hit and miss. Sometimes it jams up the saw just like chaps do, sometimes not.

Whichever you choose, be sure and use 2 points of attachment when cutting (2 ropes, or a rope and flip etc) and put them in different places. Like if you're blocking down, it's great to have your rope wrapped on the barrel, and your flip line too.... but if they're both in the same position on the barrel then there isn't any added protection. Slide one down a foot or so below the other.

Shaun

 

[Iustinian]

You can still use a hitch if you like - it's just rope after all. All the guys doing close approach tree trimming in aus have to use rope lanyards instead of steel core because of supposed electrical risk. But they still use steel spikes etc... I don't really see that a rope flip reduces the electrical hazzard over steel core, especially around HV.

In terms of cut resistance, the rope may have something over the steel core. I've had a go at cutting my old steel core fliplines and was pretty unimpressed by how easily you can cut right through one with a sharp chain. Rope is kind of hit and miss. Sometimes it jams up the saw just like chaps do, sometimes not.

Whichever you choose, be sure and use 2 points of attachment when cutting (2 ropes, or a rope and flip etc) and put them in different places. Like if you're blocking down, it's great to have your rope wrapped on the barrel, and your flip line too.... but if they're both in the same position on the barrel then there isn't any added protection. Slide one down a foot or so below the other.

Shaun

I disagree -- steel core flip lines will be a much better conductor than a rope flipline. A dielectric test would answer that question.

The most danger coming from (I think) if you're climbing and allowing a snap or biner end of the flipline to dangle from your belt as you are climbing instead of clipping it into a d-ring.

 

[imagineero]

I completely agree with you that steel is a better conductor than nylon, but over the length of a flipline when attached to HV lines both are likely to be lethal which pretty much makes the difference academic. I've witnessed idiot climbers get contact shocks off uncoated LV lines from ropes, HV at such short distances won't tickle - it will kill.

The whole other point I was trying to make was that insisting on rope only is somewhat redundant for close approach tree work around HV lines since the guys still have plenty of other metal hardware attached to them like their spikes.

I totally agree that the rope only flipline offers some small margin of extra electrical safety though, and that it may be even sligthly more resistant to power saw cutting (the most important point!)

Shaun

 

[freeweight]

wish there was a test video around of both wire core and non wire core

 

[gorman]

I use the Sterling cut-restistant rope in my ART positioner. It works well but knots don't hold up very good. And once you cut the rope you have to do a lot of taping or else it will fray like crazy.

 

[freeweight]

u have nicked the lanyard?

 

[ATH]

I use the Sterling cut-restistant rope in my ART positioner.

That would be the best reason to use this instead of steel core...I love the Positioner!

I would not count on any rope to be non-conductive. It may be OK out of the box but as soon as it gets some dirt or moisture on it, you had better not count on it!

 

[Iustinian]

true.

distilled water doesn't conduct electricity, but the second you put minerals or dirt or anything else in it -- boooooooom.

I dont disagree with Shaun either, HV kills; steel or rope inside minimum approach has the potential to melt instantly under that voltage and the resulting heat. Actually, it doesnt fry or cook or even melt -- HV vaporizes everything. But I'm pretty sure theres a lot more man hours of close proximity work being done in distribution (lower voltage) than transmission (high voltage), at least when it comes to fliplines in use anyway. my opinion, I may be wrong.

Utility contractors do cram safety with redundancy -- but it may be one of those little redundant things that makes a difference in the particular situation that finds one of us in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Just like chaps; I've often felt like those are more dangerous because I just want to hurry up with the ground cutting and get out of those hot sweaty things, where if I wasnt in them I might take more time to be careful instead of rushing thru cuts......

High voltage aside though, I've never liked steel core fliplines because of the added weight and not as easy to fling around a branch just out of reach as a rope-only flipper. Having two tie-in points during cutting helps with not having a steel core line as well. Cant splice them either lol

 

[imagineero]

I use the Sterling cut-restistant rope in my ART positioner. It works well but knots don't hold up very good. And once you cut the rope you have to do a lot of taping or else it will fray like crazy.

instead of taping, you can repair them by melting. Get a propane torch, or just use the flame from your stove or anything, and use something like an old knife, hobby knife or any thin bit of metal. Hold the metal in some vice grips else you'll burn yourself. Heat the metal up to red hot, then touch the ends of the frayed strand with it and it will melt and seal. Immediately flatten the waxy end with your fingers and it will be (almost) as good as new. I do it by clamping the bit of metal in a vice so I'm free to work with both hands.

You can repair your ropes this way too. Any more than 10% frayed strands in one area = retirement though.

Shaun

 

[gorman]

I haven't nicked it. Just where the length was cut from the roll. A lighter won't do the trick to melt it. need to take it to my oxy acytelene torch

 

[oscar4883]

I haven't nicked it. Just where the length was cut from the roll. A lighter won't do the trick to melt it. need to take it to my oxy acytelene torch

Maybe tape and add a few drops of superglue like a lot of us do to beeline ends.

 

[tramp bushler]

Having seen my partner cut all but 1 strand of his 4 strand manilla and all but 2 strands of the wirerope. Core 2 different times. I won't climb without wire core. 1 time he was about 160' (52 meters) up a western hemlock. He had to use his pass rope as a flip line to climb down far enough so I could send him up my rope that he threaded thru his rings and was able to go up and top the tree.
I make most of my own flip lines. I use 1/4" wirerope and do a 3 tuck eye splice. Gives me a little greater piece of mind.
But, I try to avoid working around power lines.

 

[freeweight]

how do u make your own wire core?

 

[tramp bushler]

Take a piece of double braid line like Samson extra. Milk a bit of the core out , end to end the core to a section of 3/16" or 1/4" 7-19 wirerope. Tape the core to the wirerope Grab the other end of the core and pull the wirerope thru the sheath of the double braid rope. Pull a foot of extra wirerope past the sheath. Go 6" back down the sheath, cut enough strands of the sheath and pulls foot of wirerope out thru the opening. Splice the end of the wirerope into the standing line with a 3 tuck eye splice. Trim the ends of the tucked strands close, tape them to the standing line then then milk the wirerope back into the core. Put some tape on the cut strands of the sheath. Cut the wirerope to the desired length.

Make sure the sheath extends several inches past the end of the wirerope fold the sheath over and whip it to the standing line.

There ya go. A wire core flip line. . I hope my typing. Is OK.