Trouble finding .063 milling chain to match 36" bar

[Blue42]

I'm on Baileys and the only 36" bars are .063 gauge. I believe they were all 3/8 pitch also. I also checked the Oregon parts finder and they don't have any 36" bars in .05 gauge. And the only ripping chains on Baileys are .05 gauge. Unless this one, 33RC115, which Baileys describes in the site as being a chisel chain, is actually a rip chain.

Granberg does have a 3/8, .063 rip chain: https://granberg.com/product/g729-3-3-8-pitch-063-gauge/?v=7516fd43adaa
But apparently Granberg is locked down for doing orders by state law.

After two hours searching around for a bar and chain and untangling various threads with contradicting information, all I want is the most very basic and standard order that will do the job with a 395xp and 36" mill. I would also like to just buy a loop rather than a roll.

Help?

 

[Husky Man]

I'm on Baileys and the only 36" bars are .063 gauge. I believe they were all 3/8 pitch also. I also checked the Oregon parts finder and they don't have any 36" bars in .05 gauge. And the only ripping chains on Baileys are .05 gauge. Unless this one, 33RC115, which Baileys describes in the site as being a chisel chain, is actually a rip chain.

Granberg does have a 3/8, .063 rip chain: https://granberg.com/product/g729-3-3-8-pitch-063-gauge/?v=7516fd43adaa
But apparently Granberg is locked down for doing orders by state law.

After two hours searching around for a bar and chain and untangling various threads with contradicting information, all I want is the most very basic and standard order that will do the job with a 395xp and 36" mill. I would also like to just buy a loop rather than a roll.

Help?

I prefer the .404/.063 for milling, the .404 is a more robust chain, granted, it has a bit more Kerf, and will take a bit more Oompf from the saw, the .063 gauge will carry oil better, than .050, think the difference between a 1" water pipe and an 1.25" pipe. the bar groove does more than guide the chain, it is also the "pipe" supplying oil to you chain

If you have a Good dealer nearby, they should have spools of chain on hand a can "Spin" you up a chain without any problem. I get all my .404/.063 loops made up at Sandy Chainsaw, my local Stihl Dealer( I WISH, they were still a Husky dealer, Thanks Lowe's ) I buy enough from them, that Tim usually gives me a discount, especially when I am buying multiple loops. Again, they know me, so I usually call ahead, and they make up what I want, and it is ready when I stop in.


Doug

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Isn't milling chain just full chisel chain filed or ground at 10 degrees instead of the usual 25-30? If so, any chisel chain can be converted pretty easily.

 

[Husky Man]

Isn't milling chain just full chisel chain filed or ground at 10 degrees instead of the usual 25-30? If so, any chisel chain can be converted pretty easily.

Not to the best of my knowledge, my understanding of "Ripping Chain" designed for milling, has narrow "Scoring Cutters" followed by "Clearing Cutters" actually very different from what I know. I have wanted to try a Loop of Ripping chain, to compare the difference in results, but so far I have been very happy with just using full skip.


Doug

 

[Husky Man]

From Granberg's website:

What is ripping chain and why do I need to use it?
While there are many companies that sell chain for milling, no other company offers ripping chain that features our specific modifications to the top plate. Our process shaves off approximately half of the tooth lengthwise on the first and second cutter links of each 4 link group. This creates what are called “scoring cutters” and they will take the left and right hand side of a cut, leaving behind a central “lip,” which is then removed by the “clearing cutters”

What is the difference between skip-tooth and ripping chain?
Skip-tooth chain has a reduced cutter-to driver ratio. Ripping chain is “full comp” chain that has been modified as outlined.


Doug

 

[andy]

Not to the best of my knowledge, my understanding of "Ripping Chain" designed for milling, has narrow "Scoring Cutters" followed by "Clearing Cutters" actually very different from what I know. I have wanted to try a Loop of Ripping chain, to compare the difference in results, but so far I have been very happy with just using full skip.


Doug

I full agree.... Full skip is great for longer chains. For 36" and shorter I usually go full comp semi Chisel.... it's been great.

Maybe it's the relatively soft woods we have out west.
Even tightly compressed/Figure Western Maple is relatively soft compared to Eastern Rock Maple I've ordered in for projects.
Doug Fir and Big Western Hemlock are trouble makers unless you de-bark (which I have seldom done).

I've seen those chains from Granberg.... Nothing I've milled yet has pointed to a different chain design improving the cut.

 

[Blue42]

I'm on Baileys and the only 36" bars are .063 gauge. I believe they were all 3/8 pitch also. I also checked the Oregon parts finder and they don't have any 36" bars in .05 gauge. And the only ripping chains on Baileys are .05 gauge. Unless this one, 33RC115, which Baileys describes in the site as being a chisel chain, is actually a rip chain.

Granberg does have a 3/8, .063 rip chain: https://granberg.com/product/g729-3-3-8-pitch-063-gauge/?v=7516fd43adaa
But apparently Granberg is locked down for doing orders by state law.

After two hours searching around for a bar and chain and untangling various threads with contradicting information, all I want is the most very basic and standard order that will do the job with a 395xp and 36" mill. I would also like to just buy a loop rather than a roll.

Help?

Baileys does have rip chain in other gauges, just don't try to find it using their parts finder where you plug in your saw brand and bar to come up with compatible parts.
https://www.baileysonline.com/catal...r=28116&bai_chain_pitch=28165&q=milling+chain