Trying Split tail

[Illini_tree]

So I got some new rope and decide to come into the 21st century and try using a split tail. Historically I have clove hitched my line to the caribiner, and tied my blakes with the tail leaving one caribiner on my bridge. With the split tail I now have 2 biners on my bridge and while hip thrusting I don't like the way the biners get caught on one another. Can I put the split tail and my climbing line in one biner or is that a bad idea? Here is a picture of the rig. Thanks for any input.

View attachment 188640

 

[Appalachian]

I have a different system but often wondered the same thing.

I climb on a closed system VT with the eye of my rope on the same carabiner as the micro pulley and the two eyes of the friction hitch. It makes for a somewhat crowded biner but I like the simplicity and the lack of clanking.

I got a new steel HMS biner just to offset any potential problems with loading but have gone back to my Petzl William aluminum cause I like it better.

 

[Tree Pig]

Im not sure but f you did you would be defeating part of the advantage of the split tail. As it sits you can simply unclip to advance or get around obstacles. If you put them on one you would have to untie to accomplish the same. Plus you can add a pully to that beener to aid in tending slack which I dont know if you could on one beener.

 

[Illini_tree]

Im not sure but f you did you would be defeating part of the advantage of the split tail. As it sits you can simply unclip to advance or get around obstacles. If you put them on one you would have to untie to accomplish the same. Plus you can add a pully to that beener to aid in tending slack which I dont know if you could on one beener.

True, I didnt think about defeating the purpose. Can I clip my split tail biner into the main biner to keep them from overlapping? If you know what I mean, maybe i can take a picture tonight.

 

[Tree Pig]

The top beener puts quite a bit of stress on your rope. It will flatten it out over time and damage the fibers. If you use an eyelet to support the rope and help prevent it from being crushed it may be better. Or maybe a captured eye beener for your rope and beener for split tail that way the rope is protected.

 

[Blakesmaster]

If that's the way you terminate your climbing line I say go for it. No need for two biners and you wouldn't be defeating the purpose as long as you make sure your climb line is closer to the gate than your split tail eye. Open the biner, slide your line out and huff it up to the next crotch. Never saw anyone terminate their climbline that way though. I used to use a scaffold knot before switching to a spliced eye which would have involved untying the scaffold knot. Next thing you know you'll be going serious new school with a set up like this.

 

[ozzy42]

So I got some new rope and decide to come into the 21st century and try using a split tail. Historically I have clove hitched my line to the caribiner, and tied my blakes with the tail leaving one caribiner on my bridge. With the split tail I now have 2 biners on my bridge and while hip thrusting I don't like the way the biners get caught on one another. Can I put the split tail and my climbing line in one biner or is that a bad idea? Here is a picture of the rig. Thanks for any input.

View attachment 188640

I see you are a relatively new member here.Welcome to AS BTW.
That figure 8 knot is not a good termination knot if using a biner.It is not a cinching knot therefore it should not be used on a biner as it could easily move and load the gate.

 

[Illini_tree]

I see you are a relatively new member here.Welcome to AS BTW.
That figure 8 knot is not a good termination knot if using a biner.It is not a cinching knot therefore it should not be used on a biner as it could easily move and load the gate.

Ok, What would you recommend? Like I said Previously I used a clove and hitched the tail, but a clove didn't seem like a good idea for an end line knot. I use the figure 8 extensively in the fire service, so it seemed like a good choice, but I see your point.

 

[Tree Pig]

good call

page 19 on the below link for termination knots

Climbing Guide PDF need adobe to view

 

[ozzy42]

I use a bowline with a yosemite tie off,which is also incorrect to use with a biner.I terminate to a ropesnap where there is no chance of loading the gate with my climbline.
Most here prefer a biner and a bunt,anchor,or double fishermens knot.

Type in termination knot in the search box.It has been discussed in depth here many times.





Sorry SOM I didn't see you post.

 

[RacerX]

I agree with ozzy also. The rope should cinch down tightly onto the carabiner. I use a Buntline hitch. Easy to tie, very compact and is resistant to loosening even when the rope is flexed. If you look closely you'll see that the Buntline hitch is a variant of the clove hitch.

Buntline Hitch | How to tie a Buntline Hitch | Boating Knots

 

[Illini_tree]

Thanks to everyone for the input. I will take any info or criticism I can get if it keeps me safe. I am going to play around with it a bit more tonight. I will take more pics.

 

[RacerX]

Thanks to everyone for the input. I will take any info or criticism I can get if it keeps me safe. I am going to play around with it a bit more tonight. I will take more pics.

Photo's always help. :msp_wink:

 

[Tree Pig]

I use a bowline with a yosemite tie off,which is also incorrect to use with a biner.I terminate to a ropesnap where there is no chance of loading the gate with my climbline.
Most here prefer a biner and a bunt,anchor,or double fishermens knot.

Type in termination knot in the search box.It has been discussed in depth here many times.





Sorry SOM I didn't see you post.

No sweat Oz I think we both posted at the same time.

 

[pdqdl]

If attaching to a carabiner, I prefer a double or triple over-hand knot [or scaffold knot, or fisherman's knot,...] It slides right off a carabiner and pulls out easily. HUGE mistake to tie onto a snap or any other solid metal ring, because it is nearly impossible to untie.

For safety snaps with a solid ring for an attachment point, a bunt-line hitch or anchor hitch will do nicely. Of those two, the anchor hitch is easier to untie, and either can be secured better with stopper knots if you don't trust them.

 

[Illini_tree]

Well I didn't get any pictures but I did go up a bit tonight with a scaffold knot. Worked nice. I still don't like the way my split tail biner moves down my rope bridge as I thrust up. Sometimes gets stuck on the rubber grommets sometimes it gets half looped over the biner on my climbing line and I don't like that at all.

 

[046]

even though a few folks still use it... forget buntline hitch for a lifeline termination knot.

one of the more common ways for climbers to fall is lifeline knot failure. IMHO the ONLY termination knot that doesn't need a backup knot... is the triple fisherman

 

[pdqdl]

I agree, that's about the best there is. Furthermore, it tails in a better direction than the others, so it stays out of the way. Strongest, too.



Of course I'm just poking you in the ribs here, but doesn't all that whipping qualify as a backup/stopper? :sword:

 

[046]

yup all the whipping does indeed act like a stopper... but it's not really necessary

main thing I wanted to get across is the importance of tying a pretty knot.
always taking time to set your knot properly is more than strength.

making a knot instantly recognizable if it's tied correctly could save your life.

 

[tree md]

I am with 046, the double fisherman's/scaffold knot is the only knot I will use for life support anymore. When I started out everyone was using a bowline tied to a snap with about 6' of tail to tie a blake's, prussic, what have you. It has been proven that a bowline is more likely to roll out/side load.