Tsumura Filling With Dust

[PB]

I thought I would check here before I buy a new bar in case I’m missing something stupid. I have a 24” Tsumura bar that keeps filling with dust and chips rather quickly. Oiler on the JRed 2171 is all the way up, bar appears to be in good shape and is not wore out, chain is new. Sawdust builds up in about half a tank to the point that oil is not getting to the bar. Any suggestions? It’s the only bar I have an issue with.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Photos will help, but new chain in a well used bar and the drivelinks could well be riding the bottom of the groove long before the sideplates are down on the rails.
What exactly is filling up? The rail channel, or just the oil delivery holes?

 

[LuDookie]

I'm having a similar problem with a new 24 inch Tsumura. Just switched from a fairly worn Oregon Powermatch, and the Tsumura pulls chips between the chain and the bar pretty regularly, usually causing it to bind once they get pulled into the bar nose sprocket. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the OP's problem, not dispersing them well in the clutch cover or something. I'm also used to hardly ever throwing chains and after switching to the Tsumura, it's happening daily. I've got a lot of trees to cut so I dressed the old bar up and am back to using that while I figure out what's up with the Tsumura. I'm no longer having the problem of the bar loading with chips or throwing chains.

 

[PB]

Photos will help, but new chain in a well used bar and the drivelinks could well be riding the bottom of the groove long before the sideplates are down on the rails.
What exactly is filling up? The rail channel, or just the oil delivery holes?

Both. The bottom of the chain groove and the oil holes. It’s almost like the chain groove is too deep for the drive links to keep it clean. Or they mislabeled the gauge on the bar.

 

[PB]

I'm having a similar problem with a new 24 inch Tsumura. Just switched from a fairly worn Oregon Powermatch, and the Tsumura pulls chips between the chain and the bar pretty regularly, usually causing it to bind once they get pulled into the bar nose sprocket. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the OP's problem, not dispersing them well in the clutch cover or something. I'm also used to hardly ever throwing chains and after switching to the Tsumura, it's happening daily. I've got a lot of trees to cut so I dressed the old bar up and am back to using that while I figure out what's up with the Tsumura. I'm no longer having the problem of the bar loading with chips or throwing chains.

Sounds similar but Im not throwing chains. I can certainly see how that would happen though. I think this bar is destined for the scrap pile in favor of a Speed Tip or Power Match replacement.

 

[user 122190]

Both. The bottom of the chain groove and the oil holes. It’s almost like the chain groove is too deep for the drive links to keep it clean. Or they mislabeled the gauge on the bar.

What is the actual gauge of the bar? Get out some feeler gauges and see what it is.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Had a customer mid summer with a OEM husqvarna bar on a 572xp that kept loading up no matter what he tried...bar and chain only had a couple tanks through them. I switched the chain for a new one and it seemed to clear up...like the old chain was not making chips but powder and not pulling through the kerf. No problems after that

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Had a customer mid summer with a OEM husqvarna bar on a 572xp that kept loading up no matter what he tried...bar and chain only had a couple tanks through them. I switched the chain for a new one and it seemed to clear up...like the old chain was not making chips but powder and not pulling through the kerf. No problems after that

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

That was my next step of elimination- if the bar and chain match, then maybe the chain is that dull or only gullet sharp it is making dust not chips.

 

[LuDookie]

I installed a brand new Oregon EXL chain with the new Tsumura. It actually cut great. The bar loading up and the throwing of chains were 2 separate problems. They didn’t happen together. I will have to verify the actual gauge of the bar. It’s marked 3/8 and that’s what it’s supposed to be.

not sure why I switched. Got the name, I guess. I wanted e sexy new bar. But I’ve always had good luck with Oregon power match. I just figured for now that I’ma simple guy, I’ll just stick with simple stuff.

 

[user 122190]

3/8 is your pitch. Find out the gauge. It is NOW looking likely to be the problem.

 

[LuDookie]

3/8 is your pitch. Find out the gauge. It is NOW looking likely to be the problem.

Yes, this is right. Sorry for the confusion there but yes, there gauge is .050 just like it is stamped on the bar.

 

[cookies]

likely from worn out chain drivers, worn thinner allowing wood into the groove. The slop in the worn out bar is allowing the chips to be pushed back out of the groove. install a new chain,

 

[kenmbz]

I had 2 20" Oregon bars where the nose would get clogged with wood and jam.
The tree I was cutting was dead, but mostly green, seems like every time I transitioned from green to rot to dry wood the nose would clog. Same tree the 18" bar never clogged.
Tried new chains on the 20" and still clogged.
Used those bars and chains on a number of trees since with no clog...

 

[John Stryker]

In my experience, to avoid the nose binding up with sawdust, I try to keep the revs up in the wood. Don't let off on the throttle while in the cut. That also helps keep the groove and oiler hole from plugging up. You can also drill out the oiler hole a bit bigger, following the same angle of the original hole.

 

[huskihl]

Sharp chains and lower rakers will pull the chain out of the bar a little and allow the chips to pack in. I’d back off the dogs a little and allow the rpm’s to come up so it has more of a chance to expel the chips

 

[ken morgan]

I had the exact same issue about 2 ears ago. a Tsumura that was brand new with a brand new .50 Oregon chain running and it would clog up with dust and given enough time would stop the chain. Stop... period as in totally stop the chain until I pulled the bar and cleaned it. After three times of jamming up in one firewood session I gave up on it and it sits on the bench as a reminder to avoid whatever is clever at the moment. it might be lighter, it might be the same or cheaper... but the Oregon bars keep working.

post edit: the wood was a dry elm that was rotten in the center so very dusty... brand new chain would not chip... just crumble into dust.

 

[LuDookie]

I’ve come to the same conclusion. The power match bars have always held up and performed well for me. I’m averaging about 80(real) hours on a bar, and that’s a considerable amount of wood cut.

 

[ken morgan]

I’ve come to the same conclusion. The power match bars have always held up and performed well for me. I’m averaging about 80(real) hours on a bar, and that’s a considerable amount of wood cut.

Yep it just has to work.... screw the rest of it. it either lays wood in the pile or it sits on the bench as a reminder.
the old growth here is filled with bits of volcanic rock that grows into the center of the logs. the trees here all grow in a cluster of three or four and over a period of time grow together and form one or two trees. they invariably have a stone or two in the center that screws you chain up. lave rock is hell on a steel chain
all my saws are for firewood/property maintenance and they all get used fairly often. I rarely go a week without breaking out a saw so while i might not be at the pro level I keep them busy. my biggest issue is the closest dealer for either Husky or Stihl is a 3 hour drive, so it was just cheaper to cut/spin my own chains vice screwing around driving hours back and forth to get a chain that fits. originally I bought precuts from various vendors on ebay etc. but buying a reel one time taught me the error of my ways.

 

[LuDookie]

I’m usually clearing downed trees that range from 2 to 4 feet diameter. Lots of live oak, so I’m usually busy with the wedges and sledge in severe pinching situations. Other than the bar clogging up, the Tsumura wasn’t liking it. The Oregon can pinch all day. I’ll either have to drag it or wedge it out. I do my best to keep from it but it’s eventually inevitable. I like to be able to just clear it, restart my saw and get on with it.

sadly, I really wanted to like the Tsumura. It looks to be very high quality and I’ve not given up on it completely, but like I said, I’ve got to get on with it for now.

 

[ken morgan]

I’m usually clearing downed trees that range from 2 to 4 feet diameter. Lots of live oak, so I’m usually busy with the wedges and sledge in severe pinching situations. Other than the bar clogging up, the Tsumura wasn’t liking it. The Oregon can pinch all day. I’ll either have to drag it or wedge it out. I do my best to keep from it but it’s eventually inevitable. I like to be able to just clear it, restart my saw and get on with it.

sadly, I really wanted to like the Tsumura. It looks to be very high quality and I’ve not given up on it completely, but like I said, I’ve got to get on with it for now.

i know the feeling... i wanted a nice lightweight bar to make the 372 a little more nimble.. but if it don't drop wood its worthless... thats my assessment