So just curious if anyone ever figured anything out about this because i have a brand new 28 with brand new Husqvarna chain that's doing the same thing, .058 feeler gauges won't fit in the bar groove but .050 will, so definitely a .050 gauge bar. Chain checks at .050 with calipers. I drilled the holes out just a touch to see if that helped. Didn't seem to make it any better or worse. Checked the inside of the groove for burs, none were present. Flipped the bar just for craps and giggles, same thing. If you just lay the chain on the bar and look through the oil hole, you barely see any of the drive tooth in the hole so i second the guy above who said that it's almost like the groove is too deep and the drive tooth can't clean it out. I've also tried tightening the chain tighter which didn't help. Are theses bars just junk when this happens?
Tsumura Filling With Dust
- Thread starter PB
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Yes, I figured out these bars have much tighter tolerances in the rail, almost 0 side to side rock of the chain. Meaning if chips or dust get in they can't really get back out until the bar has broken in and loosened up some. I own 4 tsumura bars, 1 out of the 4 was being problematic. I realized the chain was a little loose and or I was dogging in the saw too hard for too long. these bars near the tail wear quickly if the chain gets left ill adjusted and is the likely source of chips entering the groove. Seemed once the first chain was about used up the bar stopped collecting wood shreds in the tip. I put skip on it and the problems have subsided. I put regular semi chisel chain on it the other day and ran several tanks of fuel through it cutting several large rounds without a hitch.
It needs to be "broken in" and the chain kept properly adjusted to prevent any slack in the tail section. Try the skip chain, it seemed to help my situation until the bar got a little wear in the groove. I noticed these bars really like oil and tip grease. I'm kinda lazy in that I do not normally clean bar grooves but I do flip it every 2-3 tanks and when I do I clean out the oil port section back to the end of the tail and pack the tip with grease. Does the grease help? idk but it sure seems to push out any water/sand/metal dust/bug shlt/wood dust. I've had every bar brand I have ever owned get the roller nose clogged/packed with curls from noodling and grain cuts but tsumura was the first that locked the chain up requiring the bar removed and the chain forcefully removed from the groove by twisting a flat head under a tie strap. I often bore cut logs laying on the ground to prevent gravity/sag pinching and these bars work well doing it ...The stihl green dot bars are dangerous to bore cut with using non safety chain, they have smaller tip sprockets that get hot and then bind and cause rapid chain driver wear as do some of the oregon bars. I might try a solid nose bar the next go around.
LuDookie
ArboristSite Guru
Mine is getting better with use as well.
Ok cool. Thank you for all of the info @cookies ! @LuDookie appreciate you sharing that yours is getting better. I'll put it back on and keep running it. I stop every few cuts and try to get a feel for just how hot the bar is getting and at least pull a driver or two up far enough to see if there is any oil shine on them so I'll keep doing that also. Thank y'all again.
Backstage
ArboristSite Operative
I've had this happen on various occasions with different types of bars,pitches, guages and vintage ages.
A lighter bar oil certainly helped or cut with a lighter oil. Some chips or debris will always be present in the groove , just clean it well when the day is done.
I do some bore cutting and it's ruff on a sprocket nose if the chain isn't absolutely sharp ,as well as the rest of the bar.
A sharp chain is likely to cure most ailments of chainsaw use.
A lighter bar oil certainly helped or cut with a lighter oil. Some chips or debris will always be present in the groove , just clean it well when the day is done.
I do some bore cutting and it's ruff on a sprocket nose if the chain isn't absolutely sharp ,as well as the rest of the bar.
A sharp chain is likely to cure most ailments of chainsaw use.
So that is the really interesting part is that the oil holes are basically below the end of the drive link just ever so slightly. Barely any tooth at or below the top of the oil hole which makes me think that once it's ran and the bar wears some then the drive link cleans it more/better which substantiates what these other guys are saying that it gets better with run time. I definitely didn't think about the groove needing to be deeper so that the bar could be resurfaced so thank you much for sharing that tidbit of wisdom.
