Tuning CS-590 With New Air Filter and Muffler Holes?

[Sidecarflip]

The saw already had a Gearhead deflector,

I thought the 'billet aluminum' deflector was just too expensive for the hoped for result so what I did was, I removed the deflector (to which the top most baffle is spot welded to, flipped it over and took a mini die grinder with an abrasive stone chucked and removed the spot welds which allowed the top most baffle to come free. Then I reinstalled the deflector but retained the spark screen. Took about 5 minutes and cost nothing but my time. The end result is the same and the cost is zip. just my time.

Mine runs with a deep, throaty sound too, much like the 075 I also own. I also 'opened up' with 3 holes in the internal muffler baffle and again, will most likely add the offset key and a 620 ignition module, maybe, maybe not as it operates just fine as it stands and mine starts 2nd pull and idles fine. Only thing I don't care for is the clunky-funky toggle kill switch. Looks cheesy though it operates just fine.

Again, my philosophy is, if it's not broke, don't fock with it.

Bought mine at my Kubota tractor dealer who also sells full line Echo power equipment and I work for him part time so I got it at cost. How I bought the CS top handle arborist saw as well that I modded by replacing the Cat inside muffler with a new one with no Cat inside. I also modded the deflector to spew the exhaust away from the 'meltable' plastic shroud.

Seems as though with colder weather creeping in up here in Michigan, he's getting a ton of saws in for repairs and most of them have coagulated carbs from sitting with e-gas in them or were straight gassed and Echo won't warrant any saw that was straight gassed and Echo requires (before any warranty allowance is to be obtained, that the fuel tank is drained into a clear container and checked for no mix and or water in it. If the fuel is compromised in any way, Echo won't warrant the saw. Real simple and my dealer always provides a gallon of Red Armor 50-1 with each new saw sold. Of course getting a customer to use canned fuel or quality bar oil is tantamount to getting a horse to drink water as in not.

Getting customers to do the 'right thing' is another issue however.

You park a saw with corn squeezed gas in it all summer and it phase separates and gunks the carb and it won't start, so off is goes to the dealer for repairs.

Curious as to if box stores like Lowes or Home Despot actually service the power equipment they sell??? Same applies to Tractor Supply and Husky saws.

 

[Paul Bunions]

Instead of using drill bits, I suggest purchasing a set of O/A tip cleaners.

Thanks. I wasn't cutting with it. Just checking to see if the hole was open. But this sounds like a good thing to have on hand.

As for the Gearhead deflector, I saw a guy on Youtube with a dyno, and he said the deflector didn't add significant power, but I didn't know that when I bought one. It's aluminum, so maybe it's helpful with dissipating heat. It looks nice.

Echo does not warranty carb problems. That's what the authorized repair place told me. Maybe it's different if a carb is seriously defective. I don't know. I messed mine up because I didn't know about the ethanol problem at the time.

I guess I'm delusional, but it just did not occur to me that our gas would suddenly be changed so it damaged tools and vehicles.

 

[Paul Bunions]

I hammered a new check valve in, and the saw would not do much of anything. Yesterday, I finally got it to work by tightening the L screw before starting. It ran at 1 turn out, which is less than I would expect. From there, I was able to adjust all three screws so the saw started, idled, and revved up to cutting speed.

It runs very well now, but the max has dropped from 13,500 to 12,400. I plan to try to fine-tune it today, after cleaning the chain and whatever else might have sand in it.

 

[Paul Bunions]

WHOO HOO!

I got the saw to idle at 3,000 and top out at about 13,300 with an occasional hiccup, just barely too rich. I think I'm in good shape. The timing is advanced, the saw has a bigger-than-stock carb, the leaky check valve is gone, and the muffler is modified.

I was surprised the L screw had to be TIGHTENED after opening up the muffler. From Googling, I expected the opposite, and that's one reason I ended up taking so much time to tune the saw.

Next I'm going to port this thing. After the fallen trees are cleared up, that is. Maybe I can put a 24" bar on it and make it compete with the 562XP.