Two Questions - Bar Oil and Chain Longevity

[bernithebiker]

Hi - 1st question....
Our local car parts store is doing a promo on engine oil. They are doing 7 litres for 10 Euros, (nearly 2 gallons for $12.50). This is cheaper than proper chainsaw bar oil.
Now I know you're not supposed to use used engine oil on bars, but virgin engine oil? This stuff must have better lubricating properties than chainsaw oil, and as it is 20w 50, it is quite thick too, so it shouldn't be too thin.
Thoughts?!
Also, why is it that a new chain does not need to be sharpened for much longer than a new chain that has already been sharpened.
I notice that a brand new chain can go at least 5 tanks of fuel before sharpening, whereas once sharpened , it is more like 3 tanks. Do they treat the teeth of a new chain with something? Harden them in some way?
Thanks!

 

[belgian]

Hi - 1st question....
Our local car parts store is doing a promo on engine oil. They are doing 7 litres for 10 Euros, (nearly 2 gallons for $12.50). This is cheaper than proper chainsaw bar oil.
Now I know you're not supposed to use used engine oil on bars, but virgin engine oil? This stuff must have better lubricating properties than chainsaw oil, and as it is 20w 50, it is quite thick too, so it shouldn't be too thin.
Thoughts?!
Also, why is it that a new chain does not need to be sharpened for much longer than a new chain that has already been sharpened.
I notice that a brand new chain can go at least 5 tanks of fuel before sharpening, whereas once sharpened , it is more like 3 tanks. Do they treat the teeth of a new chain with something? Harden them in some way?
Thanks!

1. Engine oil. using new engine oil should not be of a too big technical problem, but it definately is not an environmentally friendly oil.
Viscosity may also play an important role, as it may not stick as well to the running chain, hence reducing its ability to fulfill its lubricating role. other members will definately have better views on it.

2. sharpened versus new chains

I cannot confirm your findings, as I find that hand sharpened chains cut at least as good and long as new ones. Much depends on your sharpening skills and the type of wood you're cutting. I know also that many loggers hand file even new chains before they get used, just to make them perform better.
what brand chains are u using ?

 

[blis]

normally i gently file the chain for every tankfull, just one pass on every tooth, help the chain to retain its sharpness...

 

[SawTroll]

Belgian is right, but a little too polite , forget using engine oil as bar oil.

Blis is also right, but I use two strokes - just a habit, no real reason....

As no-one else has done it, I will also use the opportunity to compliment our young Finnish friend for his English.....

... hope you are a stayer blis, and not a touch an go - too many of those..

 

[SteveH]

Depending in part on the cutting you normally do, using the engine oil you propose will save you a little money on bar oil [maybe] but will likely shorten the life of your bar. Bar oil, proper bar oil, is formulated to "stick" to the chain better and will therefore lube the lower edge of the bar rather than fling off the nose. Guess where most of the friction and stress is on a bar...on the lower edge when you are cutting down into the cut. Bars cost more than oil. Great English, though.

 

[JUDGE1162]

Stick to Bar oil it is not that expensive (buy it by the gallon), motor oil will not lube as well and is very bad for the environment. Stick to normal bar oil or bio bar oil if you want to be really eco friendly.

The sharpening issue like others have said depends on how you are sharpning the chain, the angles you use, the eveness between each tooth, etc.

Welcome and stick around a lot to learn around here

 

[mini kahuna]

steveh is dead on,use a good brand name bar oil,it is formulated to cling to the fast moving chain.
the saw itself will be happier too less friction pulling the chain,less sprocket wear also.
I think it is funny when guys go through bars,sprockets,chains and oil pumps like crazy.

 

[Elmore]

I recently tried Canola oil and am pleased with it. I was using Poulan Pro and it seemed that my Makita DCS520i coupled with a ProLite bar and a Super 70 chain just wasn't getting enough lube. With Mazola it is obvious that the oil is lubricating the whole bar. Quite visible on the lower edge. It seems to be faster, cleaner and cooler.

 

[bernithebiker]

thanks

thanks for the answers. It seems to me then that bar oil is overpriced, as it need not be as high quality as engine oil - all they need to do is add something to increase the viscosity to stop it flinging off.

And is normal bar oil any better for the environment than engine oil? I would imagine that bar oil is simply a type of low grade engine oil with anti-fling no? Or is there some kind of vegetable type oil in there too?

As for sharpening, I am using Oregon chains, 0.063 with 18inch bar. I file at 30' with a slight downard stroke. I check each tooth after I file - I think I have the hang of it! But I still find that a brand new chain will go longer without a sharpen!!

 

[blis]

....

As for sharpening, I am using Oregon chains, 0.063 with 18inch bar. I file at 30' with a slight downard stroke. I check each tooth after I file - I think I have the hang of it! But I still find that a brand new chain will go longer without a sharpen!!

theres your problem, it should be slightly upwards (10' says manual, varies thou)...

and as for bar oil, its worth it since normal engine oil lacks the stickines of bar oil (expect when its too cold for given viscosity, but when it reaches that temp your pump cant pump it to bar any more)... Theres also bio-oils which dont cause enviromental problems (who cares)...

 

[JUDGE1162]

thanks for the answers. It seems to me then that bar oil is overpriced, as it need not be as high quality as engine oil - all they need to do is add something to increase the viscosity to stop it flinging off.

And is normal bar oil any better for the environment than engine oil? I would imagine that bar oil is simply a type of low grade engine oil with anti-fling no? Or is there some kind of vegetable type oil in there too?

Yes bar oil is a bit pricely but you can get a gallon for $6 and motor oil will cost you on average $4 not a huge diffrence since a gallon should last a while. While there is little diffrence in environmental damage between motor oil and petro bar oil the bar oil should stay on the bar better and you should need to use less of it as a result less pollution.

The bio-bar oil tends to be a big jump like $16 a gallon but it is completly safe so no contamination. Un-like car or truck oil, Chainsaw bar oil is a free-loss lubricant, which means it is expected to end up in the environment when used. When using a chainsaw, up to 0.8 litres of oil per hour can go into the environment, therefore, it's important for the forestry industry and occasional chainsaw users to have an environmentally safer alternative.

One litre of mineral-based oil can contaminate one million litres of water, BLIS THAT IS WHY YOU SHOULD CARE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now the next thing is to find a Bio-bar oil that works as well if not better than standard mineral-based bar oil. The big problem is temp. many bio bar oils are fine between 50 degrees F and 90 degrees F but outside this range they can get to thick or thin to work well or be pumped by the saw.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

I recently tried Canola oil and am pleased with it. I was using Poulan Pro and it seemed that my Makita DCS520i coupled with a ProLite bar and a Super 70 chain just wasn't getting enough lube. With Mazola it is obvious that the oil is lubricating the whole bar. Quite visible on the lower edge. It seems to be faster, cleaner and cooler.

Have you had any problem with gumming? Some have said that they have found a problem with that. What's your experience?

 

[GASoline71]

Do you really cut that much wood to worry about offsetting the cost of a jug of quality bar oil? Is your much more expensive bar, chain, and sprocket worth prematurely wearing wearing them out? I cut quite a bit of wood over a given year, and view good quality bar lubricant cheap insurance.

...then again, it's your saw that you spent your hard earned money on. Just my .02 cents.opcorn:

Gary

 

[Elmore]

Have you had any problem with gumming? Some have said that they have found a problem with that. What's your experience?

Not yet. The other day I had the saw outside on a table adjusting the H screw...extended revs to adjust the carb and I noticed that it pumped out a lot of canola as it does with petrol oil but it seemed to flush a lot of the debris from inside the cover. It flows real nice. I had my pump adjusted for maximum flow but with canola I will adjust it back about half way. I ran some Poulan Pro in it the day before and it just didn't seem to lube as well. Someone at a local shop suggested that I mix the poulan oil 50/50 with 30W motor oil. I may thin it with a tad of kerosene. I am shopping around for a better line of petroleum bar oil to use before it gets cold. Found a gallon of Jonsered for $5.00, some Huskie for $5.75, some Stihl for $7.50 and some Echo for $8.50. The Poulan Pro works well in my little Poulans but doesn't with the Makita. At Sam's Club I can get the Mazola canola oil for $5.08 per 5qts and so far I am pleased with the performance but need to run a good petroleum oil through it from time to time.

 

[Timbercutter]

Stick with the bar oil,as for the new chain I personally dislike a new chain..
Usually after two hand filings i have mine right cutting fast and digging inn.:biggrinbounce2:

 

[SawTroll]

theres your problem, it should be slightly upwards (10' says manual, varies thou)...
...

If you file from the "inside", yes - but not everyone do that (I do).....

 

[Fish]

Use the cheaper oil, no real difference will be noted.

As far as the sharpenings, a properly sharpened chain will cut and last
just as long as the original edge, be it hand or bench ground.

Notice I used the word, "proper".

The theory of the stickier oil not polluting as much is silly, if the oil pump is
pumping out the same volume of oil in both cases.....

Just a little clarity.

Now if you use stabil or marvel mystery oil or synthetic bar oil, all bets are
off, as those oils involve "magic".................

 

[Fish]

But I am probably wrong.

Sorry to pee on this thread, it had potential..............................