Tying in to the stick

[NYSawBoss]

Well, I'm stepping up to the plate on this one. My wifes boss has a monstrous conifer in their backyard they wish to have removed. They received a bid from another tree service of 1400. I believe i'm going to attempt this removal. It will be my first one so not the best to learn on. However, one half of the trees limbs can be free falled into the yard. The other half will have to be lowered due to the neighboors fence. My question here is...after I've removed the top and I begin taking sections out of the leader, what knots do i use to tie my climbing line to the leader for double tie in. I will obviously already have my lanyard around the trunk, just wanted that extra security being new and all. Any help as always is appreciated.

Anthony

 

[NeTree]

Anthony, check out the "Tree-Clibers' Companion". Worth the investment.

What knots would be appropriate? Depends... any one of a dozen or so, depending on the circumstances. Experience would tell you what to use where, and why. But to answer your question, when blocking down a spar I switch to a Blake's off of a split-tail most of the time.




Consider something; are you sure you're up to this? If something goes wrong, are you insured? Food for thought... I'll leave the flaming to the squirrel.

 

[NYSawBoss]

TCC

i have the tree climbers companion. I've had it for a year now and i love that book. I use a split tail with a taughtline at present. I have been toying with the notion of switching to the blakes to eliminate the roll. I cant stand when that happens. I would not have opted to take this removal if i didn't know i would not have to rush the job. Being that it will be side work on a saturday i dont have to go wacko fast. I will take my time to ensure that the job is done professionally and safely. I never had any intention of running up and down this thing like the more capable climbers can. I will be using this TD as a learning experience overall. My main concern was what to do about tying in 2 places when i'm left with just a stick. You answered that erik. any other advice would be helpful.

anthony

 

[MasterBlaster]

Looky here, Tony...

http://www.gypoclimber.com/treepics/4.JPG

 

[arboromega]

butch is the top of that tree attached to a crane? kinda big to be flopping?

nysawboss...use your same hich on the spar that you use on the climb up, tautline i think you said. clip you snaparound the spar and to your rope above your tautline. this will choke your rope around the tree and keep you from a fall if you cut the lanyard. keep it a couple feet below your lanyard while cutting. always check your lanyard on the backside of the tree to know its position and make sure not to cut through it.

there was a good point raised, are you up to this? you could always sub it to another climber and run ropes for them while splitting the cost how you see fit. be safe whatever your decision

 

[NeTree]

Anthony, barring switching to a more advanced friction hitch (I use a 4/1 Distel), believe me... a Blake's kicks butt over a TLH anyday. it doesn't roll out, and to me at least, the friction seems more controllable and predictable.

Butch's picture (and my avatar pic, as well) shows how it looks when you're tied in twice. You generally want your climbing line lower than your lanyard, so if you do cut it (you'd have to be a drolling retard to do it), you're not going to be cutting both.

Sorry 'bout bashing your favorite hitch Butch...

Butch

 

[MasterBlaster]

The TL can take it, Erik!

 

[BigJohn]

This can be answered in so many ways. Do you plan on Chunking the wood down if so do you plan on lowering it down? Once the top is out I have a cambium saver that is pretty small in length that chokes off well that I use to decend down to my next cut. Any hitch here will do all personal taste. You can take your eye and tie a running bowline with a long tail and use that single line to descend down on and the pull the tail down to you and untie or use a biner think about it. Once at your next station tie your block strap in above the block and keep it tight I mean close together. Make your notch. Tie your half hitch and bowline. You can now pull down your climbing line with friction saver if you haven't done so already. You will want your climbing line above the block with your lanyard. This is important so that your lowering line does not burn through you lanyard and or climbing line. This does happen and seen it happen to a few guys. Backcut and hold on. Repeat above steps. If you have a pattern and use the same one all the time you can get really quick at it.

 

[BigJohn]

Friction saver picture.

 

[NYSawBoss]

thanks guys

i'm going out now to take pictures of the tree and i'll post one when i get back. perhaps upon viewing it you will be able to give any pointer specific to this TD. thanks again.

anthony

 

[BigJohn]

Wouldn't that be an english prusik your describeing there Brian? Thats a good point about the fence. I often use this little reality check what is easier to just cut it and fix what I may break or just take a few minutes to rig it.

 

[NeTree]

Just a thought... it seems to me that working just outside your comfort zone is how you progress.

Took awhile to get used to an advanced hitch/cord/pulley setup, but now it's old hat.