upgrading log splitter

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Upgrade continues...

Other tidbits, and
In reply to:

"At 6 hp, the best you are going to achieve is 3 gpm @ 3000 psi or more realistically 4 GPM at about 2500 psi. You really need at least 8 -10 hp. Then you can drive that thing. That thing is great btw! Where in CO you located Patrick? Fort Collins/Loveland here. If you were close enough, could I come and see it in person? It would make my day :)"

I built a 3 way wedge, I will get photo's. It came out pretty awsum.
I actually split about 4 logs with it, just to try it out.

6.5 hp simply ain't enough. There I said it. It was worth a try. I killed the engine about 10 times getting 3 green rounds thru it. Full throttle did not help. It actually kicked down to the creeper stage once, but rest of the time it simply died.

I also see that I ws 1/2 right about my flimsy beam. It bends a bit, and I will add some strength to it, eventually.

The drive function is currently disabled. Due to a badly cracked and leaking valve. I emailed Northern tool. They said that Prince Hyd actually handles warranty... Really? I called Prince and got a phone that didn't answer, left voice msg. No reply. It would seem that Northern and Prince won't even think of trying to help a guy out with a cracked valve.
I swear that I did not over tighten the fittings.

I may do a little experimental repairs. I have nothing to lose.

Concerning the Engine, how much power do you think that a 2 cylinder Continental (teledyne) military spec gas engine can produce? The displacement is 16 cu in. Compression is 6 to 1, it was used on a 1.5 KW generator. It runs well, I have used it for years. I took it apart and the shaft is 3/4 and keyed. Little cutting, filing, welding, and I have a bracket that fits the 3 5/8 bolt pattern. I am going to try this on it. If it works it'l save me about $400.....

Where am I you ask? Buena Vista, right in the middle of nowhere.

later!
-Pat
 
FWIW,
To calculate hydraulic horse power you multiply the PSIG X GPM and divide by 1714. So a 1 gpm pump at 1714 psig would be 1 hyd. horsepower.


My skidsteer is 3200 psig at 40 gpm.

It has a little over 74 hydraulic horsepower........bet it would split wood pretty quick......even with a 6" cylinder.
 
TreeCo said:
That skid ought to really be able to drive a stump grinder well.

I was reading about hydraulic pumps the other day and I believe I saw several that were rated at 85% efficiency.

"I swear that I did not over tighten the fittings." Sorry to hear about your control valve being broken but that is what you get when you over tighten the fittings!

Dan

Piston pumps are the most efficient........and the most expensive.

I have a high flow Miller mfg stump grinder with a dura disk wheel..........wanna race?:)
 
This isn't my first rodeo

Okay, so I grabbed a couple of 1/2 NPT 90's and wrapped 2 turns of sealer tape on them. Then I grabbed a wrench and tightened them until snug, then went 1 more turn. I would say maybe 1/2 inch threaded in there. Over tight???

Or maybe I clamped the valve down real good, put 19 layers of tape on there and then grapped the biggest wrench I can fine used a 4 foot cheaper pipe and put all my 200# into it.

Whatever... Last night I was bored so I made grooves inside the fittings with a dremmel, cleaned it up real well, and JB welded it up. Next is to tap the hole back out (I actually have a tap for this). I will make steel rings to press on so as to not stress the glue.

Warranty? We don't need no stinking warranty. Made in USA (what quality?) The front port actually cracked exactly where the little casting that the handle attaches to. Right down the middle!!! Strongest part of it. I am wondering if the castings are made over the pond and machined by Prince....

-Pat
 
TreeCo said:
"I swear that I did not over tighten the fittings." Sorry to hear about your control valve being broken but that is what you get when you over tighten the fittings!
Dan
Don't mind treeco, he's a nimrod!
 
I was reading the other day about the new fangled tool called a Torque Wrench.........ever heard of one.

Myself, I have a carefully calibrated arm........
 
log splitter

has anyone else seen the bigfoot splitters he has a self pro. unit with a 37hp or 42hp .log lift .dont know if there still in buisness.i think they were in utah very nice old man he would be at the trade shows. it was a 42 ton unit.
 
Last edited:
I have a pound foot!

xander9727 said:
I was reading the other day about the new fangled tool called a Torque Wrench.........ever heard of one.

Myself, I have a carefully calibrated arm........

It even has a steel toe boot on it.
Now just what is the torque spec for 1/2 NPT anyway?? And then when the fitting is pointed 173 deg the wrong way.... Adapter man to the rescue!!! Get a longer hose!! This would look really cool. :censored:

-Pat
 
Current update after major surgery

I finished creating brackets and installed the 2AO16 engine. Stuck fuel line in a gas can and fired it up. Then strolled out to wood pile and hauled about 3 back to shop. Third one was a monster. All of this is green pine, with knots.

Engine struggles a little better than the 6.5, but still died. Okay... Next I adjusted the second stage pressure down a full turn. That made it kick into creeper mode at lower pressure. It works. I can shove a hunk of green sideways thru the blade. Next issue was that the engine would die rather than reach peak pressure (2250). I turned that down as well, and adjusted it so that the engine takes a fair load, but stayed running. end result is a functional splitter that is doing about all it is capable of.

The flimsy beam isn't too happy either, but is workable (for now)

Next was the valve for driving the critter. I don't give up easy. :bang:
Dremmel was used to carve channel on inside of cracked holes. Then cleaned, and JB welded up. Let it sit for a day, and sent the tap in there. Looked pretty good. Made steel rings that squeezed on with a hydraulic press. Cleaned all the crap out, re-assembled it, installed it, and fired it up.

It works.

No leaks :D

Now to rig up a fuel tank, and take it for a drive!
-Pat :blob2:

Notes on Engine. It would seem that 16 Cu. In. is probably capable of 8hp. If it were in NEW condition maybe a smirch better than that. I am at 8K ft. elevation. This translates into something along the lines of 25% less air than sea level, and 25% less power!! I knew that. But it was worth a try. Eventually I will upgrade to a 10hp or better rated engine. For now I will run Uncle Sam as it has lots of adjustments, and is intimidating enough to keep people from trying to run it.
 
TreeCo said:
Those sound like some smart pressure adjustments. I'm really anxious to see how the drive works. I'm wanting to do the same to mine. I do believe I read where Teflon tape is not recommended for hydraulics but I could be mistaken.

Dan

I used the fancy yellow stuff that is rated for gas pipes. It claimed oil to some outragous pressure.... However I did not take any chances, I used honest to gosh white pipe dope on the valve this time!!!! (and tape on my hoses)...

-Pat
 
Another problem is that teflon lubricates the contact between the threads making it easy to overtighten and damage the component.:bang:
 
I'll arm wrestle ya...

TreeCo said:
hahaha xander you rascal.

Give the guy a break. After all it takes a strong wrist to bust out a hydraulic valve port!:)

Just kidding.... I ain't that tough.
BTW, I did already drive it. Leaky valve and all. It is quite a creation. Should do better this time as this engine has a little more power (but not much).

depending on weather I will charge up the camera and drive it out to the wood pile for a photo shoot tomorrow.

TreeCo: If you are going to try something like this, the hydraulics are relativly simple (break you own valve), The steering is time consuming to create. The biggie is getting the hyd. motor hooked to the axle. The expensive part is buying the motor. I suggest getting the largest low speed you can find. It results in a nice creeper gear. Makes positioning it less of a hassle. Top speed of this machine is walking pace. Fine for actually moving from pile to pile. There isn't a variable speed (maybe slow the engine down?) for getting it exactly where I want it.

I will get some PIX soon.

-pat
 
Patrick,

That's one cool splitter!

Concerning the valve, the last I knew, Prince was still casting their own valves inside the U.S.
As well, I've done my fair share of hydraulic plumbing jobs, and it sounds like you got a fluke of a valve body.

The teflon tape issue (as far as log splitters goes) is really not an issue. The hydraulic industry in general states not to use PTFE tape. With a log splitter, it's probably never going to have an effect on the components if a little piece breaks free and floats around.

In a servo, or proportional system, it's a whole different story.

Flow control valve is the way to go.
(use the Cross brand)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top