Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
Better NAME what hydro it's better than, because that's NOT true when compared to the better designed hydro's...
BUT, then again, maybe you just enjoy repeating those myth's....
SR
used dr rapidfire for sale
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Better NAME what hydro it's better than, because that's NOT true when compared to the better designed hydro's...
BUT, then again, maybe you just enjoy repeating those myth's....
SR
Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
Pot, kettle -- why don't you name a commercially produced, better designed hydraulic splitter in the $2500 price range of a Super Split that produces more wood per minute while burning less fuel?
I beg to differ.... There are some very fast hydraulic splitters around...
Challenge accepted. On larger stuff 12" is stuff that needs to get split to like 4 or 6 ways, and even bigger 18" stuff that really needs to be busted up 9 ways, my blue splitter with it's 3 way is faster (8 second cycle time).
as for being more reliable... I don't really think so. Old blue has been thru thousands of cords of wood, with a acceptable track record.
If you need a log lift a kinetic splitter is probably not the best choice for a one splitter home. It can be done, but is easier and faster to noodle large rounds for kinetic splitting. Kinetic splitter wedges are short and narrow, cutting wedges for the most part. I have quartered large rounds on a hydraulic and then run them through a kinetic. That too is a waist of time. It is quicker to resplit on the hydraulic than handle the material twice using two splitters. And I completely agree with Patrick62, there are some fast hydraulic splitters. The cost is horse power, and what it takes to utilize it. Another consideration is where your splitter will be stored. Hydraulics can sit outside for decades, covered with a tarp or not, where as a kinetic should probably be stored inside. But splitting is only one third of the picture, if that.
I would put my 12" wedge against noodling any time on large rounds.....
Not sure why a kinetic needs to be stored inside?
There is a time and place for each splitter. Now, with a splitter like Sawyer Rob's, that is a beast. Not sure of the old blue, would like to see pics and spec's.
Just saying, large rounds are not fun on a SS. I have run one and anything over 18" ain't great. I go vertical on large rounds and works like a champ. No lifting. Just turn and split and repeat. If I had a 4 way, I need a way bigger engine, pump and knife/wedge.
Not sure why a kinetic needs to be stored inside?
There is a time and place for each splitter. Now, with a splitter like Sawyer Rob's, that is a beast. Not sure of the old blue, would like to see pics and spec's.
Just saying, large rounds are not fun on a SS. I have run one and anything over 18" ain't great. I go vertical on large rounds and works like a champ. No lifting. Just turn and split and repeat. If I had a 4 way, I need a way bigger engine, pump and knife/wedge.
Old blue:
5" cylinder, 3/4" hoses, 22 gpm pump, 15hp kohler, 24" stroke with a kickout at 18", 7.8 second cycle time, custom 3 way wedge.
It will do a honest 22 tons, and rarely drops into second stage on pump. I can split a cord in way less than a hour if I am hustling.
in large green blocks like in this picture I challenge ANY kinetic splitter to match me in production
As pointed out, the Kinetic is faster on smaller stuff. and I really like mine for that.
5" cylinder, 3/4" hoses, 22 gpm pump, 15hp kohler, 24" stroke with a kickout at 18", 7.8 second cycle time, custom 3 way wedge.
It will do a honest 22 tons, and rarely drops into second stage on pump. I can split a cord in way less than a hour if I am hustling.
in large green blocks like in this picture I challenge ANY kinetic splitter to match me in production
As pointed out, the Kinetic is faster on smaller stuff. and I really like mine for that.
I have a SS hd that is two years old. As a disclaimer, it is the only kinetic I have used. The push plate guide has five bearings, four under the the top beam flange and one on top. Except they are not sealed bearings, they are cam followers, and not sealed at all. That makes them susceptible to dirt, or crude, and moisture. If the bearings do not function freely, the ram does not return. Perhaps there are areas where you could leave a kinetic exposed to the weather or covered with a tarp, but I would not recommend it here in Michigan because of the non-sealed bearings.
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
Some one above said they have FEWER moving parts??? (than a hydraulic splitter)
SR
sunfish
Fish Head
Good move.
The Super Split is bullet proof.
DR has problems like most of the other copies.
Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
That didn't answer the question. That's something you cobbled together -- something folks may not have the skills, tools, desire, or time to do themselves. Which is why they're out shopping around to buy one.
The question isn't whether there is any hydro splitter out there that can out perform a kinetic.
I asked:
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
And "I" asked for this to happen...
SR
SR
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
the little push plate busted off my ss today. Doesn't look like enough penetration in the welds.
Surprised it lasted this long. Will weld it back on tomorrow.
busted push plate is a acceptable failure.
My "cobbled" together thingie has had one engine swap, a few busted welds, some hydraulic tank issues. The drive axle came loose last summer. One monkey found it didn't run so well on diesel.
Maybe the point is correct in that commercial available splitters are slower. The kid who sold me my K34 was telling me it is faster than my hydraulic... I corrected him by saying it is probably faster than your hydraulic machine, not mine!
My "cobbled" together thingie has had one engine swap, a few busted welds, some hydraulic tank issues. The drive axle came loose last summer. One monkey found it didn't run so well on diesel.
Maybe the point is correct in that commercial available splitters are slower. The kid who sold me my K34 was telling me it is faster than my hydraulic... I corrected him by saying it is probably faster than your hydraulic machine, not mine!
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
depends on when it fails. First few weeks and I'd be a bit miffed. After many years and thousands of cubic meters of split wood I don't really care. Was easy enough to weld back on. Bugger all penetration of the weld and I guess some work hardening sealed its fate. If I had more time I'd make a slightly different push plate but only to tinker, not because I don't like the current one.
do you have a link to your splitter build? or description of it?
somewhere on this site, possible before it was hacked (which means long gone) I described the thing..
I have actually built two of these, in similar fashion. The blue one is faster, quieter. The other one has diesel engine and is slower, but runs cheaper.
Splitter are heavy and have a engine, why not make them self propelled? So, old blue was created from available parts 10 or 12 years ago. It has been changed a few times over the years, 16gpm pump to 22 gpm, bigger engine, larger hoses, bigger return filter, and recently the upgrade oil tank and feed line to pump.
Axle was a isuzu rear end (chevy luv) and a cobbled front end. No suspension, which is why I built a trike. drive valve is hooked into the return line after the splitter valve. This is a incorrect way to do it but it has worked well for years now. I see no reason to change it. Cylinder is a 5" bore 24" stroke, but with a custom kick out set at 18". My beam is a touch flimsy even after adding steel to the web. It still bends some when loaded heavy.
I have actually built two of these, in similar fashion. The blue one is faster, quieter. The other one has diesel engine and is slower, but runs cheaper.
Splitter are heavy and have a engine, why not make them self propelled? So, old blue was created from available parts 10 or 12 years ago. It has been changed a few times over the years, 16gpm pump to 22 gpm, bigger engine, larger hoses, bigger return filter, and recently the upgrade oil tank and feed line to pump.
Axle was a isuzu rear end (chevy luv) and a cobbled front end. No suspension, which is why I built a trike. drive valve is hooked into the return line after the splitter valve. This is a incorrect way to do it but it has worked well for years now. I see no reason to change it. Cylinder is a 5" bore 24" stroke, but with a custom kick out set at 18". My beam is a touch flimsy even after adding steel to the web. It still bends some when loaded heavy.
midwest_170
ArboristSite Operative
Is that 12" wood? Those splitters have their places but I cut a lot of hedge and tried one and it just wouldn't split the bigger stuff or anything with a crotch.
very nice!! I like the 8 second cycle time. do you have a pic of the 3 way? and what size is your engine? how fast does it travel? do you use it like a walk behind? is there a video? I'd like to see it in action. sorry for all the questions, your splitter has peaked my interest, the self propelled feature is a really neat idea.
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