I have used Brooks spikes for over 20 years without wraping the lower strap once around the shank before buckling. I just opened my Sherill catalog and on page 57 all three manufactures of climbers have pictures showing the lower strap wraped once around the shank. What is the correct way? My way with no wrap, or once around the shank as pictured.
Using Brooks spikes
- Thread starter savage
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Tim Gardner
ArboristSite Guru
All that wrapping your bottom strap seems to do is wear the strap faster. I think is is to keep the climber from sliding over the heal. I did climb with Brooks for a while and never wrapped the bottom strap or had the climber slide. Same thing for my Kleins.
I have climbed with Brooks, Buckinham and Klein climbers and out of the three Brooks are my favorite. They are the only set that did not hurt my arches, even on 4 hour removals. I would still be using them but a new set of Brooks gaffs are $62.00 plus shipping and an almost new pair of Kleins at the pawn shop was $50.00. The gaffs had not been sharpened or worn down.
I have climbed with Brooks, Buckinham and Klein climbers and out of the three Brooks are my favorite. They are the only set that did not hurt my arches, even on 4 hour removals. I would still be using them but a new set of Brooks gaffs are $62.00 plus shipping and an almost new pair of Kleins at the pawn shop was $50.00. The gaffs had not been sharpened or worn down.
Stumper
One Man Band
I don't wrap the shank on my Brooks either (for one thing the straps aren't long enough).
I climb with Bashlins, I always had a problem with the shank sliding out of alignment with my leg and ending up toward the back of my calf. After a few hours it was real uncomfortable, wrapping the stap is supposed to prevent the shaft from relocating, and it works reasonably well.
mikecross23
ArboristSite Guru
I put 5 large pines, a small oak and a small sweet gum on the ground yesterday and my calfs were killin' me from all that climbin'. The shank that runs up the inside of my calf rubs a nasty rash/sore spot if I'm on my gaffs for more than an hour or so. Yesterday I was in them for about 4 hrs and the longest I have stood on them in one day was 6 hours straight. Took about 3 days for the feeling to come back in my big toes. I need to break down and get some good logger boots specificaly for removals, otherwise I'll stick to my hiking boots.
Good thread Savage! I might try the wrap just to see if it will spare my calfs b/c after yesterday I have irritating tender calfs and my big toe on my left foot is still a little tingly.
-Mike-
mikecross23
ArboristSite Guru
Yeah, I've been known to whine a little!
I bought those triple thick T pads for my gaffs and they are a LOT more comfortable than my old wore out loop and loop L shaped pads. Still gets me after a lot of hikin' up and down.-Mike-
Tim Gardner
ArboristSite Guru
Make sure your climbers are adjusted to the proper length. Two fingers between the top of the pad and the bone that sticks out just below your knee. Or as high as you can go and still be able to bend your knee without the pad digging in on the back side of the knee. When you get the length adjusted make sure the upper strap goes around your calf muscle where it starts to taper back towards your knee, not around it midway. This helps my shanks from twisting around without wrapping the lower strap and no more hurting legs from them digging in even with standard pads.
Mahk
ArboristSite Member
I heard about wrapping the strap around the shank in connection with footlocking.
Footlocking with boots that have flat soles is easier than using a boot with a big heel. One objection to this type of boot, however, is that, when doing a removal, the stirrup of the spike won't stay on the bottom of the boot. It simply slides off of the back because there is no boot heel to hold the stirrup in place. Wrapping the leather strap around the shank prevents the stirrup of the spike from sliding around on the bottom of the boot.
Wrapping the strap when wearing boots with heels (as in the Sherrill catalogue) may help to minimize movement of the shank, but I don't know if it will completely stop the top of the shank from chafing the side of the leg. Proper fitting helps, but what I have found to be most comfortable are the aluminum pads on page 56 of the 2003 Sherrill catalogue. The shank slides inside of the aluminum frame of the pad so the only thing touching your leg is the rubber padding. The frame wraps around the front of the leg and rests on the shin and this prevents the whole thing from moving around and bruising the side of the leg. I've found this to be more comfortable than any of the leather or velcro pads that I've used. The steel shin cup pads (same page) do the same thing, but the ones that I tried (about twelve (?) years ago) didn't have as much padding as the aluminum ones.
Mahk
Footlocking with boots that have flat soles is easier than using a boot with a big heel. One objection to this type of boot, however, is that, when doing a removal, the stirrup of the spike won't stay on the bottom of the boot. It simply slides off of the back because there is no boot heel to hold the stirrup in place. Wrapping the leather strap around the shank prevents the stirrup of the spike from sliding around on the bottom of the boot.
Wrapping the strap when wearing boots with heels (as in the Sherrill catalogue) may help to minimize movement of the shank, but I don't know if it will completely stop the top of the shank from chafing the side of the leg. Proper fitting helps, but what I have found to be most comfortable are the aluminum pads on page 56 of the 2003 Sherrill catalogue. The shank slides inside of the aluminum frame of the pad so the only thing touching your leg is the rubber padding. The frame wraps around the front of the leg and rests on the shin and this prevents the whole thing from moving around and bruising the side of the leg. I've found this to be more comfortable than any of the leather or velcro pads that I've used. The steel shin cup pads (same page) do the same thing, but the ones that I tried (about twelve (?) years ago) didn't have as much padding as the aluminum ones.
Mahk
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Mahk
ArboristSite Member
True, the only loop is the one on the shank of the gaff. I buckle the upper straps and hang my spikes upside down in the tool box and the pads have never fallen off.
Mahk
WillClimb
ArboristSite Operative
Well, none of you guys mentioned the pain I get from wearing my Kleins. And I can't really place what it is I'm doing that makes it happen.
Every once in awhile the shank (which I believe is the steel rod running from arch to knee?) just nails me in that ankle bone that sticks out the inside of the ankle (the medial malleolus bone). When driving the spike in, it causes this bone to bump into the flat metal shank...and the harder you have to drive 'em in...well, you get the point.
Sometimes I get home and these bones are bruised up pretty good. One day I can put on the spikes and never have the trouble, but the next day…sunnofa?????!!! I never change the way I’m putting them on. I basically tighten all straps as tight as possible without straining. I also wrap the bottom strap but only in an effort to stop this ankle-bone pain. Don't really get any other spike pains unless I'm up there for 3 or more hours standing on only the spikes. Having a climbing line around the trunk with a running bowline lets you take the pressure off the arches and legs.
I actually bought some of the Buc pads which are the large leather upper pads that have two straps going through instead of just one. They made the spikes more comfortable overall but didn’t solve this “come and go” problem.
I’m thinking about investing in some of the Wolf Claws. Any opinions?
Every once in awhile the shank (which I believe is the steel rod running from arch to knee?) just nails me in that ankle bone that sticks out the inside of the ankle (the medial malleolus bone). When driving the spike in, it causes this bone to bump into the flat metal shank...and the harder you have to drive 'em in...well, you get the point.
Sometimes I get home and these bones are bruised up pretty good. One day I can put on the spikes and never have the trouble, but the next day…sunnofa?????!!! I never change the way I’m putting them on. I basically tighten all straps as tight as possible without straining. I also wrap the bottom strap but only in an effort to stop this ankle-bone pain. Don't really get any other spike pains unless I'm up there for 3 or more hours standing on only the spikes. Having a climbing line around the trunk with a running bowline lets you take the pressure off the arches and legs.
I actually bought some of the Buc pads which are the large leather upper pads that have two straps going through instead of just one. They made the spikes more comfortable overall but didn’t solve this “come and go” problem.
I’m thinking about investing in some of the Wolf Claws. Any opinions?
Tim Gardner
ArboristSite Guru
Borrow a set of Brooks climbers with the 2" gaffs and you will not put those Kleins back on. I should have spent the extra few bucks and got the replacement gaffs for mine but the gaffs on the Kleins are better on thick bark pines. The Brooks will not vibrate (your feet wiggling back and forth) when you get up to the 6" or less section of spar like Kleins will.
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