Using the depth gauge correctly

[nilzlofgren]

Ive searched the threads about this, but haven't found the answer. Sounds stupid, but I need to know, that I'm using it right. My saw is on the bench, I'm looking at it, with the powerhead on the left, and the bar heading out to the right, as if I'm adjusting the chain. Do I rest the gauge on the cutters between the raker I'm filing and the powerhead, or between the raker and the bar tip? Does it even matter. Also, it seems as if the gauge is way wider than it needs to be. With it being as wide as it is, it is hard to hold it steady while I file. It seems it would be alot better if it was a tad wider than the chain so it would sit better and be more stable.

 

[ValleyO'Giants]

Ive searched the threads about this, but haven't found the answer. Sounds stupid, but I need to know, that I'm using it right. My saw is on the bench, I'm looking at it, with the powerhead on the left, and the bar heading out to the right, as if I'm adjusting the chain. Do I rest the gauge on the cutters between the raker I'm filing and the powerhead, or between the raker and the bar tip? Does it even matter. Also, it seems as if the gauge is way wider than it needs to be. With it being as wide as it is, it is hard to hold it steady while I file. It seems it would be alot better if it was a tad wider than the chain so it would sit better and be more stable.

That is a good question. I just got my sharpening kit and have yet to use it.
I do have this that someone here showed me.

http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice110606.pdf



Hope it helps.

 

[Timberhauler]

I don't use a gauge....I do it by sight,and count the number of file strokes on each raker...I have a whole method for it,but it's kinda hard to explain.
When I get a new chain,I true it up with a file before it goes on the saw.I then run it,and usually after I've sharpened it about four or five times,I'll cut the rakers back one phase...I take the flat file,and run it across the top of the raker,the full stroke of the file.I give each one four strokes the first time I cut them back,and I kind of round them over with each stroke..Then,after I've sharpened the chain four or five more times,I repeat it..It all depends on how far back the tooth is filed...You will learn optimal clearances the more you do it.....The best advice I can give is just jump in and start doing it...I hope this helps.

 

[Dok]

Timberhauler, how do you keep track of your chains? You must have a lot of chains. I have about a dozen and I can't keep track of when I did what to which. Wondering if you have any "old pro" advice.
Brad

 

[Dan Forsh]

When I get a new chain,I true it up with a file before it goes on the saw.

What do you mean by you true it up?

Are you saying that a new out of the box chain isn't true?

That to me is a compulsive disorder, no other reason for it.

Dan

 

[tawilson]

To answer the first poster, yes you rest the gauge on the cutters on either side of the depth gauge. There was a thread yesterday with some more insite into this.

 

[Timberhauler]

Timberhauler, how do you keep track of your chains? You must have a lot of chains. I have about a dozen and I can't keep track of when I did what to which. Wondering if you have any "old pro" advice.
Brad

I'm not sure what you mean...I keep the same chain on the saw until it's worn out,then I just throw on a new one..I can tell what kind of filing that needs to be done by looking at it and/or cutting with the saw...The only thing I have a hard time keeping up with is several different people will run the same saw in one day.A couple of my guys will absolutely not run a dull chain,while the others will try and cut no matter what kind of shape the chain is in.

What do you mean by you true it up?

Are you saying that a new out of the box chain isn't true?

That to me is a compulsive disorder, no other reason for it.

Dan

I cut and haul more wood and remove more trees in a week's time than alot of people on this site can even imagine.During my busy season,I spend lots of time,8 to 12 hours a day behind a saw.After many years of doing just that,you really get in tune with lots of little things that the average person probably wouldn't even notice.Most of what I cut is hardwood,I run into my share of evergreens,but probably at least 80% of what we handle ends up being hardwood.Therefore,we use up alot of chain,and that is money that comes out of MY pockets...Sooo,I'm NOT filing back chains just for the hell of it or because I'm compulsive.When I put on a new chain,I file back the excess metal under the cutting tooth,which in alot of cases sticks out farther than the actual cutting edge of the tooth.This lets the chain "bite" better and makes for a faster,smoother cut than the factory edge.If you are about to fall some hardwood tree,twice the diameter than the bar you're using,you need all of the cutting speed that you can get...I've been falling big timber and removing tough trees for nearly twenty years...I AM FAIRLY SURE I HAVE SOME IDEA OF WHAT I AM DOING!!!!!!

 

[tawilson]

As long as there is a reason for your compulsive disorder, it's ok.

 

[SWE#Kipp]

When I get a new chain,I true it up with a file before it goes on the saw.I .

+ 1 ,,,

So it's a perfectly normal procedure :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[trimmmed]

I don't use a gauge....I do it by sight,and count the number of file strokes on each raker...I have a whole method for it,but it's kinda hard to explain.
When I get a new chain,I true it up with a file before it goes on the saw.I then run it,and usually after I've sharpened it about four or five times,I'll cut the rakers back one phase...I take the flat file,and run it across the top of the raker,the full stroke of the file.I give each one four strokes the first time I cut them back,and I kind of round them over with each stroke..Then,after I've sharpened the chain four or five more times,I repeat it..It all depends on how far back the tooth is filed...You will learn optimal clearances the more you do it.....The best advice I can give is just jump in and start doing it...I hope this helps.

I have had this problem alot with stihl chain,which is why I don't use it anymore....It seems like when it gets worn down about 50% it starts cutting crooked.....I have had this problem several times especially with bigger bars.They will start to cut so crooked,they won't even go all the way through the cut.

Well, maybe doing it by eye should only be left to those with overwhelming experience, just might not be for everyone.

 

[Rydaddy]

perfect

I'm not sure what you mean...I keep the same chain on the saw until it's worn out,then I just throw on a new one..I can tell what kind of filing that needs to be done by looking at it and/or cutting with the saw...The only thing I have a hard time keeping up with is several different people will run the same saw in one day.A couple of my guys will absolutely not run a dull chain,while the others will try and cut no matter what kind of shape the chain is in.



I cut and haul more wood and remove more trees in a week's time than alot of people on this site can even imagine.During my busy season,I spend lots of time,8 to 12 hours a day behind a saw.After many years of doing just that,you really get in tune with lots of little things that the average person probably wouldn't even notice.Most of what I cut is hardwood,I run into my share of evergreens,but probably at least 80% of what we handle ends up being hardwood.Therefore,we use up alot of chain,and that is money that comes out of MY pockets...Sooo,I'm NOT filing back chains just for the hell of it or because I'm compulsive.When I put on a new chain,I file back the excess metal under the cutting tooth,which in alot of cases sticks out farther than the actual cutting edge of the tooth.This lets the chain "bite" better and makes for a faster,smoother cut than the factory edge.If you are about to fall some hardwood tree,twice the diameter than the bar you're using,you need all of the cutting speed that you can get...I've been falling big timber and removing tough trees for nearly twenty years...I AM FAIRLY SURE I HAVE SOME IDEA OF WHAT I AM DOING!!!!!!

Great post timber!

 

[Timberhauler]

Well, maybe doing it by eye should only be left to those with overwhelming experience, just might not be for everyone.

I've used every damm gadget on the market on Stihl chain and I still can't get it right....I can keep just about any other chain cutting straight until it's worn to nearly nothing.

 

[Dan Forsh]

I cut and haul more wood and remove more trees in a week's time than alot of people on this site can even imagine.During my busy season,I spend lots of time,8 to 12 hours a day behind a saw.After many years of doing just that,you really get in tune with lots of little things that the average person probably wouldn't even notice.Most of what I cut is hardwood,I run into my share of evergreens,but probably at least 80% of what we handle ends up being hardwood.Therefore,we use up alot of chain,and that is money that comes out of MY pockets...Sooo,I'm NOT filing back chains just for the hell of it or because I'm compulsive.When I put on a new chain,I file back the excess metal under the cutting tooth,which in alot of cases sticks out farther than the actual cutting edge of the tooth.This lets the chain "bite" better and makes for a faster,smoother cut than the factory edge.If you are about to fall some hardwood tree,twice the diameter than the bar you're using,you need all of the cutting speed that you can get...I've been falling big timber and removing tough trees for nearly twenty years...I AM FAIRLY SURE I HAVE SOME IDEA OF WHAT I AM DOING!!!!!!

Well, that's me told then :sword:

 

[Dok]

Ah, now I understand. I have four chains for each saw and just swap chains in the field rather than file in the field. I take files with me and will sometimes freshen up a chain but that's the exception. I'll do a raker check every four to five sharpenings like you suggest, that sounds like good, experienced advice, thanks!
Brad