File Gauge

[user 196652]

Had to go to the big city so stopped at a Stihl dealer to pick up carby. Went through a whole rack of .325 file guides (to replace the one I had) and all but one of the was twisted. They have also taken away one of the end clamps with screw so it looks like the file has to slope downwards to go into slot. Says made in Germany on the packet. Think I will try and find a made in China, Makita guide...they had no twisting, has two screw clamps, but no .325 in stock.
Vorsprung durch technik.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Had to go to the big city so stopped at a Stihl dealer to pick up carby. Went through a whole rack of .325 file guides (to replace the one I had) and all but one of the was twisted. They have also taken away one of the end clamps with screw so it looks like the file has to slope downwards to go into slot. Says made in Germany on the packet. Think I will try and find a made in China, Makita guide...they had no twisting, has two screw clamps, but no .325 in stock.
Vorsprung durch technik.

I have found many bent files from stihl. Some of my guides are bent too, just straighten them on a table.

Bent



Straightened on a table



They’re cheap, mass produced, stamped steel. Bend them straight and try again.

Leave the file in place to stop you over bending it and just press on the tip of the guide and hold the other end.

 

[user 196652]

I have found many bent files from stihl. Some of my guides are bent too, just straighten them on a table.

Bent

View attachment 1178946

Straightened on a table

View attachment 1178947

They’re cheap, mass produced, stamped steel. Bend them straight and try again.

Leave the file in place to stop you over bending it and just press on the tip of the guide and hold the other end.

At $27 they 'aint cheap. Bet they werent like that 20 years ago. You shouldnt have to straighten them. If Makita can make straight ones and sell them for at least $10 less, then there is something badly wrong at the house of Stihl.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

At $27 they 'aint cheap. Bet they werent like that 20 years ago. You shouldnt have to straighten them. If Makita can make straight ones and sell them for at least $10 less, then there is something badly wrong at the house of Stihl.

I’m refering to their process being cheap production, not high quality. Anything stihl is over priced. Nothing that stihl makes, or any company for that matter is really quality now days. Look at their pistons, cylinders, tooling, it’s junk. You pay through the roof and get average at best. Stihl can’t even make an air filter that seals or a top cover that holds up now days. Yet you pay the better part of 2-3k

I was in your shoes a few years ago. Both with sharpening and with realising that you can’t pay more to get quality. If you want quality you buy saws and tools pre 2000’s

I would buy USA, UK, German etc made tools thinking they’d be good and reliable. Most is as crap as Chinese stuff. The only country that can makes decent tools, whilst somewhat affordable is Japan.

Case in point - look at these “lovely” US made Crescent Wire crimper strippers. Real quality stuff coming from USA - total junk - it’s embarrassing.

 

[trains]

Had to go to the big city so stopped at a Stihl dealer to pick up carby. Went through a whole rack of .325 file guides (to replace the one I had) and all but one of the was twisted. They have also taken away one of the end clamps with screw so it looks like the file has to slope downwards to go into slot. Says made in Germany on the packet. Think I will try and find a made in China, Makita guide...they had no twisting, has two screw clamps, but no .325 in stock.
Vorsprung durch technik.

Have a few of these, very well made.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2026172...e23HWlYOpYmdojlI5dez49vDBA==|tkp:BFBM8uv8_vNj

your welcome.

 

[user 196652]

Have a few of these, very well made.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/202617229776?itmmeta=01HYFYZ6QJ83A5XHPAS18BBZN8&hash=item2f2ced91d0:g:rUkAAOSwnelkJOHC&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA8PgXQcsh8cSAf4e+rT2hUNxtmFUUxUgVcnjW9L3QW1ctMmDEvIq9/UCJQe4/W74hDcpkg/vgTxHr3t8SAJopjmHkSZ7OCRD7G6QaCVpjRHYw+OFeQEwcocLBRaZJpdw8a9dehhNAYGPZ6WkbaSBolPAKr8nE2DTjnACRxnoPRfq+p7NZO33N34ufXMick1WCZDxGS+fsCUNvczM5K/c5bkrcFy59RQBsd6wKjTe+nPaCFjKEbiqKM+TiQ1P+PVGPdE4hPNThyfi9SCYPIS+NFonxXDOLZrwNxaCOEHjBe23HWlYOpYmdojlI5dez49vDBA==|tkp:BFBM8uv8_vNj

your welcome.

Interesting that Stihl uses Vallorbe files but Vallorbe don't use re-branded Stihl guides. I did see those the other day but thought the plastic might flex.

 

[epo]

Interesting that Stihl uses Vallorbe files but Vallorbe don't use re-branded Stihl guides. I did see those the other day but thought the plastic might flex.

Is "Swiss Made" stamped on Stihl files in Australia? Because here it is not, while it is on Oregon files.

Pferd is the manufacturer of many things for Stihl.

 

[user 196652]

I’m refering to their process being cheap production, not high quality. Anything stihl is over priced. Nothing that stihl makes, or any company for that matter is really quality now days. Look at their pistons, cylinders, tooling, it’s junk. You pay through the roof and get average at best. Stihl can’t even make an air filter that seals or a top cover that holds up now days. Yet you pay the better part of 2-3k

I was in your shoes a few years ago. Both with sharpening and with realising that you can’t pay more to get quality. If you want quality you buy saws and tools pre 2000’s

I would buy USA, UK, German etc made tools thinking they’d be good and reliable. Most is as crap as Chinese stuff. The only country that can makes decent tools, whilst somewhat affordable is Japan.

Case in point - look at these “lovely” US made Crescent Wire crimper strippers. Real quality stuff coming from USA - total junk -

I think they need to put a warning on the guide packet to please check for straightness first. If not, then please take a hammer to straighten it.
You have to wonder about the thousands who are wrecking their chains who dont know about this issue.

Is "Swiss Made" stamped on Stihl files in Australia? Because here it is not, while it is on Oregon files.

Pferd is the manufacturer of many things for Stihl.

Yes, I made the dealer open a packet of Stihl files last week and get out a magnifying glass to check.....still says Swiss Made....but for how much longer, who knows.

 

[trains]

Interesting that Stihl uses Vallorbe files but Vallorbe don't use re-branded Stihl guides. I did see those the other day but thought the plastic might flex.

They are pretty stiff, like I said, well made.
i buy the vallorbe files by the dozen from the cheapest on evilbay, used to be 19 inc postage, now there 40 ish + post.

 

[fields_mj]

Had to go to the big city so stopped at a Stihl dealer to pick up carby. Went through a whole rack of .325 file guides (to replace the one I had) and all but one of the was twisted. They have also taken away one of the end clamps with screw so it looks like the file has to slope downwards to go into slot. Says made in Germany on the packet. Think I will try and find a made in China, Makita guide...they had no twisting, has two screw clamps, but no .325 in stock.
Vorsprung durch technik.

Oregon makes the same guide, and its available at a most places that sell chainsaw products. I've never had an issue with the Oregon products, but I haven't had to buy a guide in probably 20 years.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I think they need to put a warning on the guide packet to please check for straightness first. If not, then please take a hammer to straighten it.
You have to wonder about the thousands who are wrecking their chains who dont know about this issue.

Yes, I made the dealer open a packet of Stihl files last week and get out a magnifying glass to check.....still says Swiss Made....but for how much longer, who knows.

Looking at your chain / teeth, that’s a totally normal profile for the first file a new chain. Every chain using the file guide looks like that. Once you’ve filed it a few times you’ll see the shape of the file will fit in just fine (just like your later pictures you shared). The inconsistency on why some of your teeth have a sharper edge than others is because you’re not holding your file flat across the tooth evenly.

It looks like it’s a very steep angle because you’re only filing the top of the tooth - the first time you file it will literally touch the top of the tooth like it has for yours, the more you file the more you’ll contact the tooth, then you remove the gullet and continue. There is nothing wrong here at all. I had the same concern originally when I started using the guide but it’s actually the correct 60 degree angle you have there which you’ll see if you measure it (just like I did when I had this same concern).

Stick with the current guide, file it like you are, do depth gauges and you’ll quickly see nothing is wrong.

New chain first filing with file in place:



Result after first file (obtuse appearance but still 60 degrees)




Well used chain with multiple filings - file in place:



Result of well used chain after multiple filings ( Less obtuse appearance but still 60 degrees)




Edit:

Lastly, here is one super imposed on the other. Notice the very upper most part of the cutting tooth - both are identical and both are 60 degrees yet they look like they’re totally different angles when you view the tooth in its entirety.

 

[user 196652]

Looking at your chain / teeth, that’s a totally normal profile for the first file a new chain. Every chain using the file guide looks like that. Once you’ve filed it a few times you’ll see the shape of the file will fit in just fine (just like your later pictures you shared). The inconsistency on why some of your teeth have a sharper edge than others is because you’re not holding your file flat across the tooth evenly.

It looks like it’s a very steep angle because you’re only filing the top of the tooth - the first time you file it will literally touch the top of the tooth like it has for yours, the more you file the more you’ll contact the tooth, then you remove the gullet and continue. There is nothing wrong here at all. I had the same concern originally when I started using the guide but it’s actually the correct 60 degree angle you have there which you’ll see if you measure it (just like I did when I had this same concern).

Stick with the current guide, file it like you are, do depth gauges and you’ll quickly see nothing is wrong.

New chain first filing with file in place:

View attachment 1179096

Result after first file (obtuse appearance but still 60 degrees)

View attachment 1179095


Well used chain with multiple filings - file in place:

View attachment 1179092

Result of well used chain after multiple filings ( Less obtuse appearance but still 60 degrees)

View attachment 1179094


Edit:

Lastly, here is one super imposed on the other. Notice the very upper most part of the cutting tooth - both are identical and both are 60 degrees yet they look like they’re totally different angles when you view the tooth in its entirety.

View attachment 1179108

Apologies for the late reply, I've been on the road for 3 days.
Thanks for all that info, very helpful.
The file guide I have is nearly 20 years old and looked straight to me when I gave it a quick look the other day, but I will check it again very carefully. One of the clamp screws has jammed so I need to fix that and make sure that the file itself is straight as it was over-tightened at both ends leading to the file dipping down at both ends. This coupled with not resting the guide on both the tooth and the depth gauge AND not being vigilant about depth gauge height in the past, will all be corrected. Once the new chain is broken in, hopefully my chain will be approved as fit for purpose by you lot!
Thanks everyone for all your help; you have all been very generous with your time and knowledge.

 

[pioneerguy600]

No worries, you’re welcome. Despite advice from people like Buckin Billy Ray to ditch guides, many saws would run better with them. Freehand filing isn’t difficult, but it’s a skill that requires you to invest time, patients and most importantly constant repetition to get and stay good.

Here is my average attempt to convey what i have learnt by people who kindly shared with me on here, but despite me being comfortable with freehand filing, I almost exclusively use a guide. It’s just easier, requires less focus and dexterity, all of which I lack when I’m out cutting in the heat, fatigued and no doubt somewhat dehydrated. It’s handy to know, but by no means necessary for general firewood hacks like myself.

Some of the best advise one can give to potential freehand filers is to actually look to see what the file is doing, where is the metal being removed and what shape the cutter is actually being shaped into.