vintage David Bradley saws question: gear drive vs. direct drive

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks for responding and help in getting this classic going again. I feel it is important to restore these old relics that are living history in the field that we so much love. You're to be commended! Take care. Thank you.



here's something else I've found. Once tuned up and with proper fuel/oil mix with synthetic Amsoil (i.e. much leaner than conventional 16:1 mix, Amsoil can be mixed 100:1 because it's concentrated), the saws start with one pull, and stay sharp longer than a new saw. They are just heavy and a little slower to cut with. But here's the thing, once a new saw gets a little dull, which is pretty quick actually, it slows down on the cut too. Then the only real drawback of these old big saws, is their weight.

if you could take one and put it on a diet somehow, i.e. mill or grind off material around the saw to lighten it up, it would still be one helluva saw to use today- the large pitch chains on the old saws, stay sharp for a lot longer. They'll buck dropped timber as good or better than a new saw, because the heavy saw weight pushes the bar/chain through the log, there's more downward pressure.

I buried the bar of my biggest DB saw in a large fallen maple and cut through it faster than my 2 cousins who were also cutting up the same tree, they were using 2 Farm Boss saws. The long DB bar cut through side to side, didn't have to walk around and do the other side

these old saws do have their uses even today
 
Back
Top