Wedges

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Four Paws

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What sizes and what type do you guys prefer? How many of each size do you carry?

Thanks!
 
Four Paws said:
What sizes and what type do you guys prefer? How many of each size do you carry?

Thanks!


I've got about 2 of the following in my saw box when going to the woods.

2-4" little yellow oregon wedges
2-6" orange ones, don't know the name
4- 8" wedges, 2 of them are red heads, one is orange and yellow and one is neon green.

I use the little ones for bucking trees that are angled on hills and whatnot. The 8" wedge is the one I carry in my pocket when felling. a Big tree, will sometimes require 2-3 wedges.

Steve
 
You should have at least three wedges with you when falling, you will need them, difference between falling wedges and bucking wedges, investigate. I sometimes fall small trees with bucking wedges, but they spit out a lot easier than falling wedges, so use them with more care and don't stack them. Have a decent axe with you, not a hatchet.
 
clearance said:
You should have at least three wedges with you when falling, you will need them, difference between falling wedges and bucking wedges, investigate. I sometimes fall small trees with bucking wedges, but they spit out a lot easier than falling wedges, so use them with more care and don't stack them. Have a decent axe with you, not a hatchet.

Splitting vs falling wedges: Yeah! I lost my only good splitting wedge off my tailgate. Asked at thelocal Stihl dealer, 'Oh yeah, they're over there' NOpe, those're falling wedges. Found wedges in the local Ace hardware and at Wall Mart. IMO they are all a cross between a splitting and a falling wedge, to slow taper to split well, too fast for a good falling wedge.

Harry K
 
I'm sorry, I wasn't clear. Falling wedges are long and have a thin taper. Bucking wedges are shorter than falling wedges of the same width and have a steeper taper. Splitting wedges are made of steel and are for splitting firewood. Years back, falling and bucking wedges were made out of steel but now they are banned because of what can happen when a fast chain hits steel. When I said to be carefull using bucking wedges to fall with, its because of the steep taper that can cause them to be ejected from the backcut. Spitting out, confusing.
 
"Hard head" wedges are great. You can really drive the home. Look for them on bailys site
 
Four Paws said:

They're alright... kind of like training wheels. They break really easily, though. I really like K&H wedges, they last forever.

Another difference between falling and bucking wedges is single vs. double taper. Single taper wedges are asymetrical and are flat on one side, whereas double taper are symetrical and taper on both sides. Kind of hard to explain, pictures would work better...
 
Thanks guys. Bought some K&H wedges today. For the extra few bucks, I thought it would be worth it since everyone that has used them seems to like them.
 
clearance said:
I'm sorry, I wasn't clear. Falling wedges are long and have a thin taper. Bucking wedges are shorter than falling wedges of the same width and have a steeper taper. Splitting wedges are made of steel and are for splitting firewood. Years back, falling and bucking wedges were made out of steel but now they are banned because of what can happen when a fast chain hits steel. When I said to be carefull using bucking wedges to fall with, its because of the steep taper that can cause them to be ejected from the backcut. Spitting out, confusing.


I understood you well. I come from back when both types were steel. Sorta mind fart forgetting that falling wedges are now plastic. Didn't even have a plastic until late 70s...didn't like them as they were brittle and didn't last any time at all.

Yes, I have used a splitting wedge to fall with, I have also had them ejected (once).

Harry K
 
I keep a couple of those orange husky wedges in my pocket, use them for small stuff or in combination with a high lift wedge. Can't beat these high lift wedges for felling, they have an alloy head, a replacable wooden shaft and an alloy ring around the top to stop it from splitting (the wood does eventually split, but you can replace it) I've only seen these available in the UK, anyone on the other side seen 'em?
I'm in the middle of the pond so get the best of both!
 
I use the woodsman pro wedges from Bailey's, they so far have been great. I use two of the 10" and one 7" the most often. In my area of the country though I get the impression that very few people use or want them. The local Stihl dealer only keeps ONE 7" wedge on the shelf, he looked at me funny when I asked if he had more in stock, he said "No, I only keep one but I can order more." Seems like they should be standard equipment. :confused:
 
Ok, stupid question time, most of my felling is of trees with some lean, or at least wieghted to one side and can be safely felled that way. I do now, see how wedges could be very effective bucking on the ground, wish I had known that a few years ago!!! But really, how often would someone like me, firewood, ussually no obstcales around, use wedges, and how effective are they really for guiding a tree on the way down. All I have seen has been in the video forum so I really have no clue here. Thanks guys!!
Andy
 
I was trained in how to wedge a tree down so I have seen the advantage of them. Most of the people around here just fall it wherever it happens to be leaning.
 
sawinredneck said:
But really, how often would someone like me, firewood, ussually no obstcales around, use wedges, and how effective are they really for guiding a tree on the way down.

I'm no expert in the subject but I feel that I have more control over the direction and speed using a wedge if the tree is big enough to drive them in.

I had a USFS Chainsaw instructor show me how to take a tree that is 50ft tall and 12" DBH and by using a wedge overcome ~3ft of back lean.
Your right for most people wedging may not be important but if you can save your self a lot of work by dropping a trash tree back into the woods instead of over a road where you'll have to buck it, falling snags on a fire line, or if your working near buildings or power lines it can save you some head aches.
 
Let's not forget the #1 reason the USFS makes us use them "in every tree": to avoid a sitback, whether it be due to misjudging the lean or from a wind gust, if you have a wedge in your kerf, you have something to keep it open. Wedges don't guide the tree on the way down, they'll redistribute the weight of the tree to get it committed to the fall. Generally, you don't want to have to wedge over a snag, since it sends shocks up the tree each time you smack it, (thus causing any number of the half-rotten parts of the tree above you to fall out) or the wood might be spongy enough that the energy of the wedge will simply be absorbed into the soft wood, rather than used to lift the tree.
 
Thanks for the input Tim, that is good to know!!! I alos have seen how handy they can be for removing a heavy stump ater the tree is felled. Guy was using twigs, same pricipal, but no roll with the wedges!!! I may have to look at getting me some of those!! Man this hobby is expensive!!!
Andy
 

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